Exploring Northwest Arkansas

Steel Creek Multi-Vista Hike

The Old River Trail along the Buffalo River is essentially an historic pioneer road that used to connect little towns and homesteads of settlers that settled along the Buffalo River. It runs 13.2 miles along the river and is sometimes used by hikers, but more often by horseback riders in the area. 

I've spent a fair amount of time on the Old River Trail -- but have mostly viewed as a functional trail to get you from one place to another or to connect various trails. It has only been recently that I've found the joy of actually hiking the trail for the sake of hiking the trail. And wow have I been missing out.

Bee Fluff along the Old River Trail

While the Buffalo River Trail generally takes the high road -- in the woods, with sweeping views of the valley below, the Old River Trail runs along the river. There is little elevation change, and it has frequent looks at the river at river level and at the bluffs from below. 

However, hiking the Old River Trail comes with a few challenges. First, it crosses the river regularly -- 20x in total. So when the river is high, it isn't safe to cross (and thus, not safe to hike the trail). The river will generally be too high to cross through much of the late winter and springtime. Secondly, in the summer, the trail can become very overgrown - making it a little less fun to hike and making bug spray a must. And even when you catch it in relatively good trail conditions, it still makes for wet water crossings which will typically mean hiking with wet feet (and it can be very cold in winter). But when you hike it, it really is a great trail with a lot of amazing scenery.

For this hike, I decided to take the best of both by hiking the Buffalo River Trail from Steel Creek and returning via the Old River Trail in a big, 10.3 mile loop hike. Along the way we visit three of the best birds-eye views of the Buffalo River, have 6 river crossings, and a lot of spectacular scenery along the way. I highly recommend this as a pretty epic day hike, or even a nice overnight hike. 

Getting There

 The trail starts from the Steel Creek canoe access point along the Buffalo River. Take Highway 74 south from Ponca. At the top of the winding hill (about 1.5 from Ponca), turn left onto the Steel Creek access road (very well marked), and then wind down the hill to the Steel Creek area. At the fork in the road, turn right and park drive to the end of the road. There is a parking area here, as well as some nice bathrooms. The Buffalo River trail starts right at the bottom of the hill just above the fork in the road you came down. Turn LEFT onto the trail to start the hike.

The Hike - Buffalo River Trail Portion

The first four miles of the hike follow the Buffalo River Trail from Steel Creek to Kyles Landing. The trail follows behind the Steel Creek Horse Camp for awhile - gradually climbing.

Buffalo River Trail

It then eventually turns away from the camp and heads up in the Steel Creek drainage. It dips back down the hill and crosses Steel Creek at .6 miles. There is almost always water here, but if the river is low enough that you plan to hike the Old River Trail back, you should be able to cross without getting your feet wet. There are some great views of the creek both up and down stream here. 

Steel Creek Crossing

The trail crosses the creek and continues upstream and up hill for a bit before turning back to the left and continuing up the hill. It's about a 400 foot climb from here to the overlook but the view is worth the climb!  The trail passes by a couple of drainages and just keeps climbing but is a nice hike throughout.

Pancake Rocks

The Trail passes through some interesting pancake rocks and at 1.4 you've reached the Steel Creek Overlook. This is the first of three great vistas you'll see on this hike and if you're into a short day hike, I recommend this section as a stand-alone. 

View Downstream from the Steel Creek Overlook

From here, you can see Roark Bluff, the Steel Creek area, and some wonderful views both up and down stream. Enjoy the view before continuing on.

Looking down on the Steel Creek area.

Beyond the overlook, the trail continues up the hill for a bit with a few nice looks back at the  Steel Creek area. The trail eventually levels out and then starts heading downhill. The trail curves into a couple of drainages and just keeps descending downhill at a gentle clip. If you hiking during leaf-off, you will start seeing Big Bluff come into view in the distance on your left. There are a couple of nice views of it from the trail. If you have a pair of binoculars (or really good eyesight!) you can sometimes see people on the trail of Big Bluff about 2/3 of the way up the bluff. You'll be joining them soon!  

Big Bluff from the Buffalo River Trail

The trail continues down the hill and starts moving away from the river. To your left is the Beech Creek drainage. The trail keeps heading mostly down the hill toward the creek although with a few minor ups and downs within a couple of small drainages. At 4.0, just before getting to Beech Creek, the trail crosses a another trail. It is marked with a small sign that says "primitive trail". If you take the trail to the right, it follows Beech Creek upstream and then eventually to the Low Gap area. We're going to turn left onto the primitive trail and head downstream toward the river.

Primitive Trail and Getting to Big Bluff

The primitive trail drops down the hill and toward Beech Creek. At about 4.2, the trail crosses over Beech Creek. There will be water here, but again, if you're planning on crossing the Buffalo River later, it will probably be crossable without getting wet feet. This crossing has a really nice spring area, and a nice rock bluff. There is a campsite here too that would be a really nice place to spend the night.  

Beech Creek

In the Buffalo River area, a lot of the "primitive trails" are old horse trails that can be quite rough for hiking. But this is a really nice route all the way to the river. 

At 4.8, the trail meets the Buffalo River. This is the first of 6 crossings of the Buffalo River and all of them will be wet crossings. You can pack water shoes and change shoes back and forth after the crossings and keep dry feet. We decided that was going to be a pain and just hiked the remainder with wet feet. As always, if the river level is high and you cannot see the bottom, it is best to not cross the Buffalo River and live to hike another day. But if the river is low and clear, it is often about knee or calf deep to cross. 

Crossing the Buffalo River during low water. Note: Never cross during high water or when you cannot see the bottom

After crossing the river, the trail goes up the river bank and into the woods a bit before hitting the Old River Trail. The trail to the right goes to Jim Bluff (and onto Kyles Landing), turn LEFT here. After a few hundred hards, there is a volunteer trail that comes in at your right. There is usually some type of cairn or rock marker here to point the way. Turn RIGHT and take this volunteer trail. This is the way up to Big Bluff. You'll be coming back this way. 

The rock formation highlighting the volunteer trail up to Big Bluff

The trail takes you up about 350 feet to Big Bluff. You'll pass through a nice little pine forest, and some rocky climbs, but it's generally easy to follow. At about 6.3, there is a nice overlook over the Buffalo River area, and then after a rock climb, another view at 6.5.

One of a couple of vistas on the way to Big Bluff

The trail then turns left and runs along a ledge -- on the right is a sheer bluff and to the left is an increasingly steep drop to the river. This part of the trail also runs beside some ancient mountain junipers. These old trees are rugged and have been here for centuries. They're incredibly beautiful and please respect & protect them. 

Ancient Junipers align the bluff. Always be respectful of these historic trees

At 6.8 you are out onto Big Bluff with incredible views both up and down stream of the Buffalo River. The hike to Big Bluff is a very popular hike from the Centerpoint trailhead and this can be a pretty popular spot on busy weekends. But it's popular for good reason!  The views here are just incredible. This is your second major vista on this hike (and it's a good one!). 

View of the Buffalo River from Big Bluff

Sit and enjoy for as long as you want. (Note: like all bluff areas in Arkansas, be VERY CAREFUL along the bluff. It is a 350 foot drop down and fall here would mean almost certain death. There are not hand rails, no chains, just you and nature. So be respectful and safe and know your limits). 

There are few better views of the Buffalo River area than from the Goat Trail on Big Bluff

When you are done here, you will take the trail back down the hill the way you came to the Old River Trail. You will rejoin the Old River Trail at about 7.6. 

Old River Trail Back to Steel Creek

Turn RIGHT onto the Old River Trail and head back to Steel Creek. There are 5 river crossings in the next 3.3 miles. At each of these crossings are amazing views of the river both up and down stream and past some of the nicest bluffs along the Buffalo.

Fall Color Reflections along the Buffalo

At 7.9, is the first of the river crossings. To the right is Big Bluff -- you can see the ledge that you were just standing on awhile ago. It's an incredible look at this amazing bluff. 

Big Bluff from below at the 2nd of the six river crossings

At 8.4, there is another river crossing -- if you look downstream this time, it has another great view of Big Bluff from the opposite direction. In between these two crossings we noticed some substantial activity from the wild boars that are living in this area. So be aware and on the look-out for them. In my previous hike here I came across a couple of boars in this area so be aware.

Big Bluff at Crossing #3

 

At 8.8, there is another crossing ---- and again, amazing views both up and down stream. 

At about 9.2, there is an old house site up to your left. There isn't a lot standing still, but there is an old cellar there where settlers would have kept food cool during the summers and an old shed. There is also an old homestead up this way if you look around to find it.

And another crossing at 9.5. I encourage you to take a lot of time and explore and enjoy the river. The Buffalo River is the first national river for good reason -- it contains amazing scenery and is just beautiful. 

Fall Reflections

At 10.2, there is another side spur trail that comes in from the right. This is the volunteer trail up to the Roark Bluff Overlook. This is the third vista view along this epic journey. We didn't hike up there on this day as we were tired and chasing daylight a bit, but you can follow these directions to that overlook. If you go up there, at about 2 miles to your mileage for this hike. 

At 10.25 is the final river crossing. Upstream from here is Roark Bluff, one of the more popularly photographed places in Arkansas. If you made the hike up to that overlook, you can see what was below you from that ledge. If you look downstream, this is the bluff of the first vista that you encountered from below.

Roark Bluff from the final River Crossing

From there you'll climb up the river bank to the Steel Creek area and back to your car.

We hiked this trail on a warm day in early November -- and there was a lot of great fall color and the water was pretty low. 

Trail Details

Distance: 10.3 miles roundtrip -- included some exploring. Add 2 miles if you visit the Roark Bluff Overlook.

Difficulty: Very Difficult - it's a long hike with two big climbs and 6 wet water crossings. Be sure you are physically fit, prepared, and have good navigation skills. 

Footwear: Sturdy hiking boots. And bring along water shoes is you want to change out during crossings (we didn't).

Kid Friendly: Not young children. 

Trail Guide: The best guide here is the National Geographic Trails Illustrated map -- but directions of the Buffalo River Trail and Old River Trail (and the climb to Roark Bluff) can now be found in Tim Ernst's Buffalo River Hiking Trails book.

Star Rating: A solid 5 out of 5

Other hikes nearby:

Roark Bluff Overlook

Steel Creek Overlook

Buffalo River Trail - Ponca to Steel Creek 

 

Arkansas Grand Canyon

The Arkansas Grand Canyon is a popular stop along Highway 7 -- five miles south of Jasper -- and with good reason. 

The view here is the highest view in all of Arkansas, stating that it is the highest point overlooking the lowest valley in the state. On a clear day, you can even see into the state of Missouri -- which is 40 miles due north. We were able to catch this on a fantastic fall day with magnificent fall color. 

This is an easy to find location -- as it is literally a pull off right off Highway 7. There is a small gift shop here, and bathrooms too. And definitely worth a short visit while traveling along the scenic highway. 

 

 

 

Arkansas Sphinx

In 10 years of reading about, and exploring Northwest Arkansas, I had never heard of the Arkansas Sphinx. However, when Danny Hale published his book, Takahik, Hiking the Arkansas Ozarks, I decided I need to check it out.

This isn't really so much of a hike as a "thing to see". The "hike", as it were, is short, but difficult.

Getting There

From Hwy 7, take Hwy 123 WEST from Pelsor. Travel 16.3 miles and turn LEFT onto JC 4840 (this is 3.7 miles past the Haw Creek Campground entrance). Travel on 4840 for .5 miles, the road takes a hard right, and then turns left. Find a place to park along the road. There are two trees with an S in a circle painted on them on the left side of the road at the spot.

The Trail

The trail isn't regularly maintained (although some maintenance had been done recently prior to my visit) and heads STRAIGHT up the hill. It's not a long hike, but it is straight up - nearly 900 feet straight up. The "trail" goes through a lot of sumac and then gets to a few rocky spots where you can stop to catch your breath and take in the views of the Ozarks below.  Those who make the climb will be reward with a huge view and one of the more unique rock formations in the region. 

It's worth noting that in Hale's trail guide, he references a second, longer route to get to the Sphinx. I attempted this route, and found the old road easy enough to travel -- however, beyond the food plot, the trail got very thick and over-grown to the point where I eventually turned around and decided to come in from the closer route. It wouldn't be the first time I've wandered off the trail ended up at the wrong spot, but at this point, I can't recommend taking the longer route.

Trail Details

Distance: About 1/2 mile round trip

Difficulty: Moderate -- it's short, but steep

Footwear: Trail shoes or Hiking boot preferred

Kid-Friendly: If they can make the climb, they should be fine

Trail Guide: Takahik: Hiking the Ozarks

Rating: 3 out of 5

Nearby: Haw Creek Falls, Highway 123 Falls, Pam's Grotto, Buzzard Roost Scenic Area

Hedges Pour Off; Overlook

The Buffalo River area is full of places with outstanding views of our natural landscapes.

One of those areas is the Hedges Pouroff. 

Hedges Pouroff is named due to the large waterfall that pours over this ridge during wet weather, and for the Hedges family that lived in a farmstead below the falls area.

However, even during the dry season, the pouroff area supplies amazing views of the undisturbed Upper Buffalo Wilderness area and is worth the visit.

Getting There

To get to Hedges Pouroff Overlook, if coming from Ponca, turn LEFT off of Hwy 43 onto Hwy 21 and go SOUTH on Hwy 21. You'll pass by the Boxley Church & cemetery. After 1.2 miles, turn right onto Cave Mountain Road - -which is a gravel road just before you cross the Buffalo River (which is usually fairly dry in this spot except during the high-water season. There is a relatively new sign in the area pointing toward Hawksbill Crag and the Buffalo Headwaters Biking Trails.

Cave Mountain Road is the road that goes to the very popular Hawksbill Crag and is a VERY steep and rough gravel road that goes straight up Cave Mountain. It is usually able to be navigated in a 2 wheel drive vehicle, but take your time, and a little extra clearance is your friend. 

At 1.4 miles up Cave Mountain Road, there is a small parking area (large enough for 2 or 3 cars) on your left. Park here. If you go past the parking spot, the road has bent a little to the right and then VERY sharply to the left and you'll know you missed the pull out. 

The Trail

There is a small, unmarked trail behind the parking area. Follow this trail down the hill a few hundred yards until you get to the bluff line. The creek will be to your right as you head down the hill.

When you get to bluff, you can meander a bit to one of the best views in all of the Ozarks and you can see nearly the entirety of the expansive Upper Buffalo Wilderness Area along with the old cedar trees along the bluff. (Be very careful in this area as it is 100 feet straight down and if you fall, almost certain death).

Trail Details

Distance: Approximately 500 yards round trip

Difficulty: Easy

Kid-Friendly: Due to the high, unprotected bluff, I don't recommend taking young children

Trail Guide: Tim Ernst's Arkansas Waterfalls Guidebook

Footwear: Trail shoes

Rating: 5 of 5

Other nearby places to visit: Hawksbill Crag, Boxley Valley, Buffalo Headwaters Biking Trails, Neil Compton's Double Falls

 

 

Roark Bluff Overlook Trail

Roark Bluff is a popular haven for photographers. The way the bluff catches the sunrise in the mornings, it's wet-weather waterfalls, and easy access, make it a great destination for photographers along the Upper Buffalo River area. 

But what is less-known is that there is a pretty nicely worn trail to get to top of Roark Bluff that provides amazing views of the bluff from above, as well as the entire Steel Creek area. 

The trail is a relatively easy hike, and because it's not well-traveled it's likely you'll have it all to yourself. And with these directions, you should be able to find your way pretty easily.

Getting there

The trail starts from the Steel Creek canoe launch along the Buffalo River. Take Highway 74 South from Ponca. At the top of the hill (about 1.5 miles from Ponca), turn left onto the Steel Creek access road (very well marked). Drive down to the bottom of the hill and turn right at the fork to get to the canoe access point. Park in the parking area here. 

The trail starts on the OPPOSITE side of the river. During high water the trail won't be accessible. Never try to cross the river if there is a swift current and if you cannot see the bottom as it will be unsafe. Even during low water, you'll want to consider this a wet water crossing. Late summer, fall and early winter will be your best timing for this hike.

The Trail

Cross the river at the canoe put-in area. While it may be possible to rock-hop to get across, you should plan on this being a wet crossing. 

Once crossing the river, the trail starts immediately across the river and to the right, and starts through a cane thicket. After a short walk, the trail splits. The trail to the right connects with the Old River Trail. Stay LEFT at the fork. 

From here, the trail goes back into the woods away from the river, turns left up the hill a bit and through a nice pine grove.

The trail winds its way up the hill, to the right, then back up. Eventually it hits a really nice rocky bluff area. It's worth taking some time to explore.

The trail goes to the RIGHT of the rocky bluff area, but you'll need to go left to see some of the neater formations. 

Back on the main trail, the trail loops around the rocky bluff and up the hill some more. Then the trail bends around to the left at the spot pictured below.

At this spot, the trail takes a hard LEFT up the hill. There was some pink tape marking the trail on the day we were there, but this area is well-traveled enough, especially in the fall, that you should be able to notice the turn if you're looking for it.

The trail goes up to to the top of the ridge, and then turns right, and heads back down a bit. It crosses over the remains of an old barbed wire fence and down onto the bluff until it reaches the overlook at about 1.1 miles from the River. 

The overlook provides an amazing view of the Steel Creek recreation, the Buffalo River and Roark Bluff -- which are all below. As with all bluffs in the Ozarks and Buffalo River Area, be very careful near the edges as some spots are very narrow and the falls are very far and steep.

This is a great place to have lunch and just enjoy the beauty of the area. 

Once you have spent your time at the bluff, return the way you arrived.

The entire trail is about 2.2 miles round trip.

If you have time to explore, there are also some neat rock formations and views of Big Bluff on the back side of the bluff (just beyond where you turned to go up to the ridge). 

This is a really great little hike, and while not an officially maintained trail, it is used often enough that it was easy to follow for our Thanksgiving Day hike. It's one we definitely will check out again during the fall when the leaves are turning.

Trail Details

Distance: Approximately 2.2 miles roundtrip

Difficulty: Moderate - mostly due to the river crossing and being an unmarked trail

Footwear: Sturdy hiking boots or trail shoes

Kid Friendly: Older kids should be ok, as long as they can safely make the water crossing and are aware enough around cliffs.

Trail Guide: Danny Hale's Takahik: Hiking the Arkansas Ozarks hiking guide

Star Rating: 5 out of 5

Other nearby hikes: Roark Bluff, Steel Creek Overlook, Buffalo River Trail Ponca to Steel Creek (can do in reverse from this location)

Trail Photos from November 23, 2017

Red Bluff overlook - Buffalo National River

I've seen pictures of the Red Bluff Overlook for many years but few people attempt to provide directions to this unique spot. Red Bluff (which isn't really all that red) is an interesting spot along the Buffalo National River where the river makes a dramatic horseshoe curve that allows you to look both up stream and downstream at the same time. It's a dramatic view that is pretty easy to get to but I think I see why people don't promote it a lot -- because it has the potential to be a pretty dangerous.

Getting There

To get there, go to the small community of Gilbert along the Buffalo National River. Gilbert is a bustling little river stop during the height of floating season and is just downstream from Tyler Bend.  Most of the buildings here date back tot he early 1900s - -and it's just 3 miles off of Highway 65. 

When you get to Gilbert, there is a "T" intersection at the General Store. Turn LEFT at the General Store onto Osborne Road (the road to the right leads down to the River). Drive up the hill for a couple of miles (road turns to gravel just as you leave town), turn RIGHT onto Tomahawk Slab Road and follow it for a little more than a mile and then turn RIGHT onto Mercy Road. There is no sign for Mercy Road, but it's a pretty large triangle intersection so easy to spot. Go for about 3/4 of a mile down Mercy Road (stay left at the V) and there is a spot where the road dips down and then there is a fairly large pull-off parking area on the right. Park here. This is a pretty good road for a gravel road and we made it easily in our 2WD vehicle.

From the parking area, there is a little trail that leads a bit down the hill to a couple of different overlook areas -- both only a few yards from the parking area.

WORD OF WARNING. There is a lot of loose gravel at the overlook area and the only thing between you and a 200 foot fall is an old Cedar Tree. If you choose to go here; like many of the bluffs along the Buffalo River, be VERY careful. 

This is an exceptional little spot and one we plan to get back to during the spring and fall color seasons.

"Trail" Details

Distance: A few feet 

Difficulty: Moderate

Footwear: Shoes with a good grip

Kid-friendly: No

Buzzard Roost Scenic Area - Big Piney WMA in Summer

Last week, temperatures dipped a little to give a break to the month's heat, so we thought it would be a great opportunity to get out for a short hike. July isn't exactly the best time of year for hiking in Northwest Arkansas due to the heat, ticks, and the reality that many of the trails get pretty grown over.

However, after some thought, we decided to check out Buzzard Roost Scenic Area.

The trail to Buzzard Roost Scenic area follows an old four wheeler road, so it is pretty wide and allowed us some pretty good hiking without the overgrowth that often makes hikes in the summer not enjoyable. There were still plenty of cobwebs though, so bring a walking stick.

The views from Buzzard Bluff are amazing -- and much prettier with the wilderness being green. Our previous trip was in November, so there wasn't nearly this much color and it was nice. 

We stopped for a quick snack and soaked in the views. 

Once done enjoying the view, we headed down to the caves below. We were REALLY lucky this day. We made a last minute decision to bring our dog Grommit and he alerted us to a hornets nest that was on tree that was downed over the trail. We're really grateful that his awareness didn't cause us to get lit up. The caves below were very fun, as usual.

We also took in both natural bridges in the area. First the smaller one:

And then the larger one:

This really is a fantastic area with a lot to see and explore. And at four miles round-trip hiking along an old road, it's pretty easy hiking. In spite of that, this area remains not a terribly popular destination which means you'll get to enjoy this area without the crowds even on a holiday weekend.

You can get full directions to the trail head and trail notes from my previous blog posting here. 

Cave Creek Bluffs - Ozark National Forest

Last month, we were out and about looking at the spectacular fall color in the Ozarks. We stopped by Sam's Throne -- which is one of our favorite spots for viewing fall color.

However, we had a little extra time and we decided to check out another bluff area nearby -- Cave Creek Bluffs. I've never really seen many pictures of the area, but if Tim Ernst felt the need to include it in his Arkansas Nature Lover's Guide I thought it'd be worth checking out. 

Getting There

To get to the Cave Creek Bluffs area, start at the entrance to Sam's Throne and head SOUTH on Highway 123 toward Lurton. At 3.2 miles, turn LEFT onto a small dirt road. There is a "C" painted on one of the trees there. You can pull down the road a little bit and there is a place where it widens where you can park. If you have a high clearance 4wd vehicle, you can drive down the road another .25 miles to a larger parking area -- but the road itself is pretty washed out in spots so you'll need the clearance. 

The Hike

We weren't in the jeep this trip -- so we parked at the first parking area and started our hike down the road. It's a nice little hike and for .25 miles, it's a nice add-on for the trip.

When we arrived at the second parking area, we took a right and headed into the woods and down the hill until we got to the bluff line.  I'm not convinced this was the "best" way to go -- but we really didn't see any trails around so it was kind of hard to determine. But the trek down to the bluff line here was pretty simple and short. 

As expected, the views from the bluff line were pretty amazing as you look down into the Cave Creek Valley and across a lot of open country. 

At the bluff line, we turned LEFT and followed the bluff line to the main vista -- I'm guess this was about .25 miles from initial bluff - so not far. And the view here was fantastic as well with a much cleaner view of the expansive valley below.

If we had gone to the right, there is apparently a walk-down area that will get you to the bottom of the bluff line and into the area where Cave Creek flows. As you can tell from the photos, we had a big storm that came up while we were there so we'll save that for a return trip -- which we'll definitely make soon. 

As noted, there are no maintained trails here and only once did we really even catch a trace of an unmaintained trail -- but it does look like a very fun area to explore. I would recommend saving the exploring time for the fall/winter when the undergrowth is less. The undergrowth didn't seem severe, but it will make exploring more difficult. 

Trail Notes

Distance: I'm estimating that from the first parking area to the vista is about 1 mile round trip.

Difficulty - Moderate -- not a lot of elevation change, but the lack of clear trails make it a bit more challenging.

Kid-Friendly - Older kids will be fine, large drop-offs at the bluffs may make having littles a challenge

Footwear -- Hiking boots are recommended

Map and Guide Book -- Tim Ernst's Arkansas Nature Lover's Guide

Stars: Giving 4 of 5 for now, but can't wait to explore more.

Other destinations nearby: Sam's Throne

 

Best Places to See Fall Color in Northwest Arkansas

Nothing says fall like the pop of fall color that comes as the leaves turn and the colors sparkle and fall begins to give way to winter.

Generally, the third and fourth weekends in October are the best time to enjoy the Fall color in the Buffalo River area -- and on beautiful weekends, the highways are filled with cars and motorcycles out on scenic drives through the hills of Arkansas.

One question I often hear is, "where are the best places to see fall color?" 

The real answer is "everywhere" -- as the colors are spectacular nearly everywhere. However, if, you are willing to get off the highway a little bit, here are my eight favorite places to catch fall color.  Note, each place has a link to the trail notes to get to the destination, but not every one of the trail notes were actually written in Fall, so some may not have the fall color pictures. So my recommendation is to go out and catch your own.

Here's my top 8 list:

1) Sam's Throne.   The drive to Sam's Trone is among my favorite drives, and the view from Sam's Throne is always amazing. But during fall color, it is truly a sight to behold.

2) Pedestal Rocks Recreation Area -- The big views and rocky bluffs combined with the fall color are a fantastic combination.

3) Hawksbill Crag/Whitaker Point is one of the most popular places to catch fall color -- and with good reason. Great views, and beautiful color. 

4) The Boxley Valley - While you generally think of scenic overlooks as the best place to view Fall color, don't discount the valleys as great viewing also. Maybe it's the high hills full of beautiful colors; maybe it's the elk in the fields, or maybe it's the haunting sounds of the Elk bugles during the rut that echo through the valley -- regardless, fall in the Boxley Valley is not to be missed. 

5) Goat Bluff/Erbie Loop Trail -- This trail is off the radar for most looking for fall vistas -- but there is something here about the river, the bluff, and the contrast of the green knotty pines vs the bright colors of fall that I just love. 

6) The Steel Creek Overlook -- Hiking 450 feet above the Steel Creek area along the Buffalo River gets you an amazing panoramic view of the valley below -- the colors at Steel Creek are pretty magnificent.

7) Hideout Hollow -- when you year the word "hollow" it doesn't scream of beautiful views of fall color, but don't let this one fook you. There is great color near the waterfall, and just beyond the waterfall, a volunteer trail goes up to a fantastic view of the Cecil Creek area with some rocky blufflines for impact.

8) Big Bluff -- A panoramic view of the Buffalo River Valley from 400 feet above has to qualify. Great views. But while looking at the views, be sure to watch your step; it's a narrow trail and a long way down.

What places did I miss?  Where is your top spot that is not on the list?

Buffalo River Trail -- Steel Creek to the Steel Creek Overlook

The Buffalo River Trail is among the longer trails in Northern Arkansas. In fact, enjoying all of the Buffalo River Trail would take at least three days and a couple of overnight stays.

But if you're more of a casual hiker, or day hiker, don't let "through trails" like the BRT scare you, because even many of these trails can be enjoyed as a series of short, out-and-back hikes.

While I've never hiked a portion of the Buffalo River Trail that wasn't thoroughly amazing, the short hike from the trailhead in Steel Creek to the Steel Creek overlook is among my favorites. It's a great hike to an amazing view of the Buffalo R iver below.

Getting There

The trailhead is in the Steel Creek area of the Buffalo River. Take Highway 74 East out of Ponca for approximately two miles. The road curves up a steep, windy hill. Just at a very sharp "U" curve, there is the entrance to the Steel Creek area. There are signs and it's well marked. Take the paved road down the hill to the Steel Creek area. 

When you get to the bottom of the hill, the pavement ends. To the right will be a horse camp and river access. To the left is the campground. Find a place to park in this area. 

Walk back up the paved road about 100 feet and the Buffalo River Trail crosses the road. Taking the trail to the right takes you to Ponca (trail notes to that section of the trail are here). Today, we'll turn LEFT and go toward Kyles Landing.

 The Trail

The trail is a nicely maintained trail and enters into the woods here, and starts to gradually go up some stairs. You'll be able to see the horse camp to your left, and a steep hill and some nice, small bluffs off on your right.

You'll hike along the trail for awhile, pretty high above the horse camp and the Ranger Station. The trail will then swing right and head back into a drainage area. There are a lot of large rocks back in this area that make for some nice scenery.

Past the drainage, the trail heads back down the hill. At about .5, the trail gets low into the Steel Creek Valley (Steel Creek runs into the Bufflo River just downstream). The trails swings sharply to the right upstream on Steel Creek and  away from the Buffalo River The trail goes past a fire pit, and through an open area (with a couple of power lines that go to the ranger station) and then back into the woods again, past a another campsite.   This would definitely make a great place to spend the night!  

At .6, the trail will turn to the left and you'll have to cross Steel Creek. We were able to rock-hop across the creek here without getting wet, but I can definitely see how during the very rainy season that this would be a wet crossing -- so be prepared for that. 

Once you cross the creek, the trail heads up the hill and to the right -- continuing up stream. You are now beginning the 400 foot climb to the Overlook. The trail continues up, fairly steeply, and then makes a complete turn to your left. At this point, during high water, there is the makings of a very nice, large waterfall just down the hill in front of you. There's no trail to it, and it could be pretty steep, but on a wet day it's probably worth checking out.

Continuing on the trail as it curves to your left you'll continue hiking UP the hill. The trail continues up and eventually cuts through a series of very large rocks. It's a great stretch of trail that we really enjoyed. 

Then, at 1.4 miles, you get to the overlook. And it is amazing. 

At roughly 450 feet above the river, you get a great view of the Steel Creek recreation area, as well as some fantastic views of the Buffalo River as it continues downstream and winds through the valleys amongst a series of large bluffs. 

I highly recommend spending some time and enjoying the view. They don't come much better than this.

After you've enjoyed the view, you can make your way back. The trail itself continues another 6.5 miles to Kyle's Landing...but for the sake of seing the overlook, you can make your way back down the hill, across the creek, and back to the parking area.

This is a really great hike, that, if it were just it's own hike and not part of the much longer (and more intimidating) Buffalo River Trail, would be extremely popular. But it's a great overall hike, to one of the best views in the Buffalo River area.

Details

Date Hiked: July 3, 2014

Distance: 2.8 miles round trip

Difficulty: Moderate -- mostly due to elevation change, although may be more difficult during high water at the water crossing.

Footwear: Trail Shoes or Hiking boots

Kids: Youngsters should probably sit this one out.

Rating: 4.5 out of 5

Guidebook: Tim Ernst's Buffalo River Hiking Trails