Exploring Northwest Arkansas

Steel Creek Multi-Vista Hike

The Old River Trail along the Buffalo River is essentially an historic pioneer road that used to connect little towns and homesteads of settlers that settled along the Buffalo River. It runs 13.2 miles along the river and is sometimes used by hikers, but more often by horseback riders in the area. 

I've spent a fair amount of time on the Old River Trail -- but have mostly viewed as a functional trail to get you from one place to another or to connect various trails. It has only been recently that I've found the joy of actually hiking the trail for the sake of hiking the trail. And wow have I been missing out.

Bee Fluff along the Old River Trail

While the Buffalo River Trail generally takes the high road -- in the woods, with sweeping views of the valley below, the Old River Trail runs along the river. There is little elevation change, and it has frequent looks at the river at river level and at the bluffs from below. 

However, hiking the Old River Trail comes with a few challenges. First, it crosses the river regularly -- 20x in total. So when the river is high, it isn't safe to cross (and thus, not safe to hike the trail). The river will generally be too high to cross through much of the late winter and springtime. Secondly, in the summer, the trail can become very overgrown - making it a little less fun to hike and making bug spray a must. And even when you catch it in relatively good trail conditions, it still makes for wet water crossings which will typically mean hiking with wet feet (and it can be very cold in winter). But when you hike it, it really is a great trail with a lot of amazing scenery.

For this hike, I decided to take the best of both by hiking the Buffalo River Trail from Steel Creek and returning via the Old River Trail in a big, 10.3 mile loop hike. Along the way we visit three of the best birds-eye views of the Buffalo River, have 6 river crossings, and a lot of spectacular scenery along the way. I highly recommend this as a pretty epic day hike, or even a nice overnight hike. 

Getting There

 The trail starts from the Steel Creek canoe access point along the Buffalo River. Take Highway 74 south from Ponca. At the top of the winding hill (about 1.5 from Ponca), turn left onto the Steel Creek access road (very well marked), and then wind down the hill to the Steel Creek area. At the fork in the road, turn right and park drive to the end of the road. There is a parking area here, as well as some nice bathrooms. The Buffalo River trail starts right at the bottom of the hill just above the fork in the road you came down. Turn LEFT onto the trail to start the hike.

The Hike - Buffalo River Trail Portion

The first four miles of the hike follow the Buffalo River Trail from Steel Creek to Kyles Landing. The trail follows behind the Steel Creek Horse Camp for awhile - gradually climbing.

Buffalo River Trail

It then eventually turns away from the camp and heads up in the Steel Creek drainage. It dips back down the hill and crosses Steel Creek at .6 miles. There is almost always water here, but if the river is low enough that you plan to hike the Old River Trail back, you should be able to cross without getting your feet wet. There are some great views of the creek both up and down stream here. 

Steel Creek Crossing

The trail crosses the creek and continues upstream and up hill for a bit before turning back to the left and continuing up the hill. It's about a 400 foot climb from here to the overlook but the view is worth the climb!  The trail passes by a couple of drainages and just keeps climbing but is a nice hike throughout.

Pancake Rocks

The Trail passes through some interesting pancake rocks and at 1.4 you've reached the Steel Creek Overlook. This is the first of three great vistas you'll see on this hike and if you're into a short day hike, I recommend this section as a stand-alone. 

View Downstream from the Steel Creek Overlook

From here, you can see Roark Bluff, the Steel Creek area, and some wonderful views both up and down stream. Enjoy the view before continuing on.

Looking down on the Steel Creek area.

Beyond the overlook, the trail continues up the hill for a bit with a few nice looks back at the  Steel Creek area. The trail eventually levels out and then starts heading downhill. The trail curves into a couple of drainages and just keeps descending downhill at a gentle clip. If you hiking during leaf-off, you will start seeing Big Bluff come into view in the distance on your left. There are a couple of nice views of it from the trail. If you have a pair of binoculars (or really good eyesight!) you can sometimes see people on the trail of Big Bluff about 2/3 of the way up the bluff. You'll be joining them soon!  

Big Bluff from the Buffalo River Trail

The trail continues down the hill and starts moving away from the river. To your left is the Beech Creek drainage. The trail keeps heading mostly down the hill toward the creek although with a few minor ups and downs within a couple of small drainages. At 4.0, just before getting to Beech Creek, the trail crosses a another trail. It is marked with a small sign that says "primitive trail". If you take the trail to the right, it follows Beech Creek upstream and then eventually to the Low Gap area. We're going to turn left onto the primitive trail and head downstream toward the river.

Primitive Trail and Getting to Big Bluff

The primitive trail drops down the hill and toward Beech Creek. At about 4.2, the trail crosses over Beech Creek. There will be water here, but again, if you're planning on crossing the Buffalo River later, it will probably be crossable without getting wet feet. This crossing has a really nice spring area, and a nice rock bluff. There is a campsite here too that would be a really nice place to spend the night.  

Beech Creek

In the Buffalo River area, a lot of the "primitive trails" are old horse trails that can be quite rough for hiking. But this is a really nice route all the way to the river. 

At 4.8, the trail meets the Buffalo River. This is the first of 6 crossings of the Buffalo River and all of them will be wet crossings. You can pack water shoes and change shoes back and forth after the crossings and keep dry feet. We decided that was going to be a pain and just hiked the remainder with wet feet. As always, if the river level is high and you cannot see the bottom, it is best to not cross the Buffalo River and live to hike another day. But if the river is low and clear, it is often about knee or calf deep to cross. 

Crossing the Buffalo River during low water. Note: Never cross during high water or when you cannot see the bottom

After crossing the river, the trail goes up the river bank and into the woods a bit before hitting the Old River Trail. The trail to the right goes to Jim Bluff (and onto Kyles Landing), turn LEFT here. After a few hundred hards, there is a volunteer trail that comes in at your right. There is usually some type of cairn or rock marker here to point the way. Turn RIGHT and take this volunteer trail. This is the way up to Big Bluff. You'll be coming back this way. 

The rock formation highlighting the volunteer trail up to Big Bluff

The trail takes you up about 350 feet to Big Bluff. You'll pass through a nice little pine forest, and some rocky climbs, but it's generally easy to follow. At about 6.3, there is a nice overlook over the Buffalo River area, and then after a rock climb, another view at 6.5.

One of a couple of vistas on the way to Big Bluff

The trail then turns left and runs along a ledge -- on the right is a sheer bluff and to the left is an increasingly steep drop to the river. This part of the trail also runs beside some ancient mountain junipers. These old trees are rugged and have been here for centuries. They're incredibly beautiful and please respect & protect them. 

Ancient Junipers align the bluff. Always be respectful of these historic trees

At 6.8 you are out onto Big Bluff with incredible views both up and down stream of the Buffalo River. The hike to Big Bluff is a very popular hike from the Centerpoint trailhead and this can be a pretty popular spot on busy weekends. But it's popular for good reason!  The views here are just incredible. This is your second major vista on this hike (and it's a good one!). 

View of the Buffalo River from Big Bluff

Sit and enjoy for as long as you want. (Note: like all bluff areas in Arkansas, be VERY CAREFUL along the bluff. It is a 350 foot drop down and fall here would mean almost certain death. There are not hand rails, no chains, just you and nature. So be respectful and safe and know your limits). 

There are few better views of the Buffalo River area than from the Goat Trail on Big Bluff

When you are done here, you will take the trail back down the hill the way you came to the Old River Trail. You will rejoin the Old River Trail at about 7.6. 

Old River Trail Back to Steel Creek

Turn RIGHT onto the Old River Trail and head back to Steel Creek. There are 5 river crossings in the next 3.3 miles. At each of these crossings are amazing views of the river both up and down stream and past some of the nicest bluffs along the Buffalo.

Fall Color Reflections along the Buffalo

At 7.9, is the first of the river crossings. To the right is Big Bluff -- you can see the ledge that you were just standing on awhile ago. It's an incredible look at this amazing bluff. 

Big Bluff from below at the 2nd of the six river crossings

At 8.4, there is another river crossing -- if you look downstream this time, it has another great view of Big Bluff from the opposite direction. In between these two crossings we noticed some substantial activity from the wild boars that are living in this area. So be aware and on the look-out for them. In my previous hike here I came across a couple of boars in this area so be aware.

Big Bluff at Crossing #3

 

At 8.8, there is another crossing ---- and again, amazing views both up and down stream. 

At about 9.2, there is an old house site up to your left. There isn't a lot standing still, but there is an old cellar there where settlers would have kept food cool during the summers and an old shed. There is also an old homestead up this way if you look around to find it.

And another crossing at 9.5. I encourage you to take a lot of time and explore and enjoy the river. The Buffalo River is the first national river for good reason -- it contains amazing scenery and is just beautiful. 

Fall Reflections

At 10.2, there is another side spur trail that comes in from the right. This is the volunteer trail up to the Roark Bluff Overlook. This is the third vista view along this epic journey. We didn't hike up there on this day as we were tired and chasing daylight a bit, but you can follow these directions to that overlook. If you go up there, at about 2 miles to your mileage for this hike. 

At 10.25 is the final river crossing. Upstream from here is Roark Bluff, one of the more popularly photographed places in Arkansas. If you made the hike up to that overlook, you can see what was below you from that ledge. If you look downstream, this is the bluff of the first vista that you encountered from below.

Roark Bluff from the final River Crossing

From there you'll climb up the river bank to the Steel Creek area and back to your car.

We hiked this trail on a warm day in early November -- and there was a lot of great fall color and the water was pretty low. 

Trail Details

Distance: 10.3 miles roundtrip -- included some exploring. Add 2 miles if you visit the Roark Bluff Overlook.

Difficulty: Very Difficult - it's a long hike with two big climbs and 6 wet water crossings. Be sure you are physically fit, prepared, and have good navigation skills. 

Footwear: Sturdy hiking boots. And bring along water shoes is you want to change out during crossings (we didn't).

Kid Friendly: Not young children. 

Trail Guide: The best guide here is the National Geographic Trails Illustrated map -- but directions of the Buffalo River Trail and Old River Trail (and the climb to Roark Bluff) can now be found in Tim Ernst's Buffalo River Hiking Trails book.

Star Rating: A solid 5 out of 5

Other hikes nearby:

Roark Bluff Overlook

Steel Creek Overlook

Buffalo River Trail - Ponca to Steel Creek 

 

Roark Bluff in Winter

One of the most popularly photographed places in Arkansas....and I never get tired of seeing it.

Roark Bluff Overlook Trail

Roark Bluff is a popular haven for photographers. The way the bluff catches the sunrise in the mornings, it's wet-weather waterfalls, and easy access, make it a great destination for photographers along the Upper Buffalo River area. 

But what is less-known is that there is a pretty nicely worn trail to get to top of Roark Bluff that provides amazing views of the bluff from above, as well as the entire Steel Creek area. 

The trail is a relatively easy hike, and because it's not well-traveled it's likely you'll have it all to yourself. And with these directions, you should be able to find your way pretty easily.

Getting there

The trail starts from the Steel Creek canoe launch along the Buffalo River. Take Highway 74 South from Ponca. At the top of the hill (about 1.5 miles from Ponca), turn left onto the Steel Creek access road (very well marked). Drive down to the bottom of the hill and turn right at the fork to get to the canoe access point. Park in the parking area here. 

The trail starts on the OPPOSITE side of the river. During high water the trail won't be accessible. Never try to cross the river if there is a swift current and if you cannot see the bottom as it will be unsafe. Even during low water, you'll want to consider this a wet water crossing. Late summer, fall and early winter will be your best timing for this hike.

The Trail

Cross the river at the canoe put-in area. While it may be possible to rock-hop to get across, you should plan on this being a wet crossing. 

Once crossing the river, the trail starts immediately across the river and to the right, and starts through a cane thicket. After a short walk, the trail splits. The trail to the right connects with the Old River Trail. Stay LEFT at the fork. 

From here, the trail goes back into the woods away from the river, turns left up the hill a bit and through a nice pine grove.

The trail winds its way up the hill, to the right, then back up. Eventually it hits a really nice rocky bluff area. It's worth taking some time to explore.

The trail goes to the RIGHT of the rocky bluff area, but you'll need to go left to see some of the neater formations. 

Back on the main trail, the trail loops around the rocky bluff and up the hill some more. Then the trail bends around to the left at the spot pictured below.

At this spot, the trail takes a hard LEFT up the hill. There was some pink tape marking the trail on the day we were there, but this area is well-traveled enough, especially in the fall, that you should be able to notice the turn if you're looking for it.

The trail goes up to to the top of the ridge, and then turns right, and heads back down a bit. It crosses over the remains of an old barbed wire fence and down onto the bluff until it reaches the overlook at about 1.1 miles from the River. 

The overlook provides an amazing view of the Steel Creek recreation, the Buffalo River and Roark Bluff -- which are all below. As with all bluffs in the Ozarks and Buffalo River Area, be very careful near the edges as some spots are very narrow and the falls are very far and steep.

This is a great place to have lunch and just enjoy the beauty of the area. 

Once you have spent your time at the bluff, return the way you arrived.

The entire trail is about 2.2 miles round trip.

If you have time to explore, there are also some neat rock formations and views of Big Bluff on the back side of the bluff (just beyond where you turned to go up to the ridge). 

This is a really great little hike, and while not an officially maintained trail, it is used often enough that it was easy to follow for our Thanksgiving Day hike. It's one we definitely will check out again during the fall when the leaves are turning.

Trail Details

Distance: Approximately 2.2 miles roundtrip

Difficulty: Moderate - mostly due to the river crossing and being an unmarked trail

Footwear: Sturdy hiking boots or trail shoes

Kid Friendly: Older kids should be ok, as long as they can safely make the water crossing and are aware enough around cliffs.

Trail Guide: Danny Hale's Takahik: Hiking the Arkansas Ozarks hiking guide

Star Rating: 5 out of 5

Other nearby hikes: Roark Bluff, Steel Creek Overlook, Buffalo River Trail Ponca to Steel Creek (can do in reverse from this location)

Trail Photos from November 23, 2017

Roark Bluff Falls & V Notch Falls - Steel Creek area

The Ozarks are full of waterfalls. Many are seasonal falls, meaning they dry up in the hot and dry summers. And then there are some falls that only appear during very wet weather or after (or during) a heavy rain.

Two of those falls are Roark Bluff Falls and V Notch Falls.

Both of these falls are easy to get to and can be viewed from the car. 

Simply take Highway 74 east out of Ponca and go up the hill to the entrance to the Steel Creek area of the Buffalo River. Then take the road back down the hill to the Steel Creek campground.

At the bottom of the hill, turn left, toward the campground. The first falls you'll come to is Roark Bluff Falls.

If you keep driving, V-Notch Falls appears just behind the first campsites you come to at the campground area.

Both of these falls tumble more than 100 feet over Roark Bluff and are a sight to behold. 

Again, don't expect these to be flowing other than during very high water, but when they're flowing, they are very cool.

Difficulty: Easy

Kids: Definitely

Footwear: Not required

Star rating: 4.5 out of 5

Buffalo River Trail -- Steel Creek to the Steel Creek Overlook

The Buffalo River Trail is among the longer trails in Northern Arkansas. In fact, enjoying all of the Buffalo River Trail would take at least three days and a couple of overnight stays.

But if you're more of a casual hiker, or day hiker, don't let "through trails" like the BRT scare you, because even many of these trails can be enjoyed as a series of short, out-and-back hikes.

While I've never hiked a portion of the Buffalo River Trail that wasn't thoroughly amazing, the short hike from the trailhead in Steel Creek to the Steel Creek overlook is among my favorites. It's a great hike to an amazing view of the Buffalo R iver below.

Getting There

The trailhead is in the Steel Creek area of the Buffalo River. Take Highway 74 East out of Ponca for approximately two miles. The road curves up a steep, windy hill. Just at a very sharp "U" curve, there is the entrance to the Steel Creek area. There are signs and it's well marked. Take the paved road down the hill to the Steel Creek area. 

When you get to the bottom of the hill, the pavement ends. To the right will be a horse camp and river access. To the left is the campground. Find a place to park in this area. 

Walk back up the paved road about 100 feet and the Buffalo River Trail crosses the road. Taking the trail to the right takes you to Ponca (trail notes to that section of the trail are here). Today, we'll turn LEFT and go toward Kyles Landing.

 The Trail

The trail is a nicely maintained trail and enters into the woods here, and starts to gradually go up some stairs. You'll be able to see the horse camp to your left, and a steep hill and some nice, small bluffs off on your right.

You'll hike along the trail for awhile, pretty high above the horse camp and the Ranger Station. The trail will then swing right and head back into a drainage area. There are a lot of large rocks back in this area that make for some nice scenery.

Past the drainage, the trail heads back down the hill. At about .5, the trail gets low into the Steel Creek Valley (Steel Creek runs into the Bufflo River just downstream). The trails swings sharply to the right upstream on Steel Creek and  away from the Buffalo River The trail goes past a fire pit, and through an open area (with a couple of power lines that go to the ranger station) and then back into the woods again, past a another campsite.   This would definitely make a great place to spend the night!  

At .6, the trail will turn to the left and you'll have to cross Steel Creek. We were able to rock-hop across the creek here without getting wet, but I can definitely see how during the very rainy season that this would be a wet crossing -- so be prepared for that. 

Once you cross the creek, the trail heads up the hill and to the right -- continuing up stream. You are now beginning the 400 foot climb to the Overlook. The trail continues up, fairly steeply, and then makes a complete turn to your left. At this point, during high water, there is the makings of a very nice, large waterfall just down the hill in front of you. There's no trail to it, and it could be pretty steep, but on a wet day it's probably worth checking out.

Continuing on the trail as it curves to your left you'll continue hiking UP the hill. The trail continues up and eventually cuts through a series of very large rocks. It's a great stretch of trail that we really enjoyed. 

Then, at 1.4 miles, you get to the overlook. And it is amazing. 

At roughly 450 feet above the river, you get a great view of the Steel Creek recreation area, as well as some fantastic views of the Buffalo River as it continues downstream and winds through the valleys amongst a series of large bluffs. 

I highly recommend spending some time and enjoying the view. They don't come much better than this.

After you've enjoyed the view, you can make your way back. The trail itself continues another 6.5 miles to Kyle's Landing...but for the sake of seing the overlook, you can make your way back down the hill, across the creek, and back to the parking area.

This is a really great hike, that, if it were just it's own hike and not part of the much longer (and more intimidating) Buffalo River Trail, would be extremely popular. But it's a great overall hike, to one of the best views in the Buffalo River area.

Details

Date Hiked: July 3, 2014

Distance: 2.8 miles round trip

Difficulty: Moderate -- mostly due to elevation change, although may be more difficult during high water at the water crossing.

Footwear: Trail Shoes or Hiking boots

Kids: Youngsters should probably sit this one out.

Rating: 4.5 out of 5

Guidebook: Tim Ernst's Buffalo River Hiking Trails

Fall Color

I love the fall color in Arkansas. While it may not have the same vibrancy as you get in New England, and Wisconsin, the colors and views are still amazing. When matched with the outstanding views, the Elk rut, and the perfect temperatures for hiking -- it makes for an incredible time to visit the Buffalo River area. The following are just a few of the pics we took last week. The colors should be at their peak over the next 10 days or so.

This picture was taken near Steel Creek.

Roark Bluff

From the Ponca low water bridge

Young bull in front of a barn in the Boxley Valley.

Many of my favorite hiking trails this time of year include overlook trails, such as Pedestal Rocks, Sam's Throne, Old Erbie Loop Hike, McFarrin Point, or Hawksbill Crag. There are also some fantastic scenic drives -- including along Highway 7 and the drive to Sam's Throne.

But the reality is that the colors are everywhere, and you really can't go wrong. And remember, the best of the fall color isn't always seen by looking up -- sometimes it's seen by looking down -- as evidenced by this fantastic mossy area we saw on the Buffalo River Trail from Ponca to Steel Creek.

Buffalo River Swimming Holes

Summer in NW Arkansas brings a lot of hot weather, and a lot of dry days. The result is that many of the rivers are too low to float, many waterfalls are dried up, and many of the trails become a bit overgrown, tick infested, or it's just too hot to enjoy hiking.

The good news is there are always good options -- and swimming is one of them.

The Buffalo River has no shortage of great swimming holes that have plenty of water all year around. Most of the popular river access points have deep watering holes, even during the heat of summer. Ponca and Pruitt are VERY popular destinations because they are easy to get to off the highways and very scenic). Steele Creek, Hasty (a personal favorite) and Carver are all popular swimming destinations as well.

Pictured above is one of our favorite swiming holes. Some of you may recongize the spot -- but don't give it away! We love this little spot and it's just off the beaten path enough that we often get it all to ourselves -- and the water gets very deep out there very quickly (as it does at many of the swimming holes).  I invite everyone to find their own little special spot and enjoy a hot day with a nice swim in one NW Arkansas's many swimming holes.

As always, be responsible. Go in pairs or groups as there are no lifeguards on duty and always keep a lookout for snakes. If you're in flowing waters you'll usually be in good shape -- the more stagnate the water the more likely you are to see snakes -- or along rocky edges lining the water. Be safe (we've never had any problems, but it would be irresponsible of me not to warn you) and enjoy.

Buffalo River Trail -- Ponca to Steel Creek

It's Spring again -- and we've had some incredible weather to get out and enjoy some hiking and being outdoors in Northwest Arkansas.

A few weeks ago, we headed out for a short hike along the Buffalo River Trail from Ponca to Steel Creek (and back). This is a small section of a the Ponca-Kyles Landing stretch of the BRT that is about 9.9 miles. However, as a short day hike, we just went as far as Steel Creek, and then came back. It's almost exactly 2 miles to Steel Creek, making it a 4 mile round trip, which was perfect for us on a 1/2 day hike.

To hit this trail, park at the Ponca low water bridge and then walk out across the bridge to the small parking area on the other side. Just past that parking area, the BRT heads off to the left and the right. For this hike head down river to the left.

The trail starts off right along the Buffalo River and after a short stretch goes under the new highway bridge that crosses the river. Right at the spot where you cross under the highway bridge there is a little trail that leads down to an overlook on the river -- a very nice little view.

Back on the main trail, you'll continue along the river for awhile. There becomes another spur off to the left that again heads down to the river. I usually take these spurs just as a method of exploring.  As you continue on up the hill a bit you get to yet another overlook. This is a great view with the river making two turns in front of you and a bluff in the background. This is also a challenging stretch of the river for canoeists (Michelle and I had an epic wipeout at this turn a year ago) so when the water is up and canoeists are on the upper Buffalo it's fun to watch people go through here and share in their joy as they make the corner.

As you continue on the trail it eventually turns to the right a little and heads up the hill. There is about a 500 foot elevation change here, so it's a pretty significant treck up.  There are also a few small streams that you'll cross over here -- none are challenging or wet crossings, but make for some interesting water features during high water. There is one that we're extremely excited to go check out after a hard rain to watch the water flow.

As you head out across the higher part of the trail you are inward from the bluffline a bit HIGH above the Buffalo River. During leaf-off, there are some spectacular views from up here -- during late spring and summer, the leaves will block most of the great views.

Eventually, you'll head back down the hill again through some really nice rock bluffs and features.

As you get to the bottom of the hill you are near the Steel Creek Campground. At one point there is a short spur off to the left and it goes to the campground and the campground bathroom (and running water).  Continue straight ahead for a few hundred yards and you'll eventually cross the newly paved road that heads from the highway to Steel Creek.

At this point, you're at 2 miles. You can continue on across the road to head to Kyle's Landing (a trail we'll discuss here another time) or, walk down to Steel Creek, check out the vally, Roark Bluff (right in front of you -- you can't miss it).  This is a great area along the river that is heavily traveled and includes a Horse Trailer parking area.

Whenyou're done here, you can turn around and head back the way you came - another 2 miles back (and another 500 foot incline back up).

BRT - Ponca to Steel Creek

Distance: 2 miles (4 miles round trip)

Difficulty: Moderate

Footwear: Trail Runners or hiking boots

Best Season: During high water -- November - April

Rating: 4 stars (out of 5)