Exploring Northwest Arkansas

Smith Creek Preserve Hiking Trails - Lower Trail Loop

Smith Creek Nature Preserve is a beautiful hiking area managed by the Nature Conservancy. The preserve sits atop Sherfield Cave -- which houses the largest colony of endangered Indiana Bats in the state. But above ground, there is beautiful scenery.

Smith Creek

This is an area that we've hiked many times and just keep coming back to due to the peaceful charm and beauty. I've previously covered the Main Trail through the preserve (that post also includes a longer overview of the area) and the hike to Elise Falls, but today I want to talk about a loop hike that has become my preferred route exploring the area. 

Getting there

The parking area for the Smith Creek Nature Preserve is on Highway 21 south of the community of Boxley -- it's 3 miles south of the Boxley Baptist Church and 1.2 miles south of the Boxley Trailhead to the Buffalo River Trail. Parking is on the east side of the road and there is a large sign indicating the spot. The trail starts off beyond the gate at the back of the parking area. There is trail signage here with a map of the area and usually paper maps as well. 

The Hike

Start off by hiking the main trail beyond the gate. The trail follows an old road and heads somewhat steeply down the hill. 

At .2, the trail splits. The Main Trail curves off to the right, but for this loop hike, we will take the trail that breaks off to the LEFT toward Elise Falls (there is a sign here noting the direction). 

Elise Falls Trail - March, 2019

The trail to Elise Falls continues steeply down a different old road. This is a nicely wooded area and it's a steep but nice stroll. The trail then turns to the left (there are a few places where the trail has washed out pretty badly) and remain heading down the hill. 

Eventually, at .8, the trail reaches Smith Creek. The creek is almost always dry here as it runs underground in this spot. There are nice little bluff areas both up and down stream at this crossing.

Bluff along Smith Creek, March 2019

From here, we'll take a short detour to Elise Falls. 

To get to Elise Falls, head downstream (to your left) and follow the creek bed a couple of hundred yards past a bluff and there will be a small creek on the left that flows into Smith Creek from the left. Follow this creek upstream another 100 yards or so and you'll reach Elise Falls (sometimes calls QueVaLa Elise Falls). This is a nice, 21 foot tall waterfall in a slot canyon and worth the visit during the wet season).

Elise Falls - March, 2019

When done here, return to when the trail first crossed Smith Creek.  From here, cross Smith Creek and continue on downstream a bit.

Shale Flat

At 1.1, the trail then turns right and proceeds STEEPLY up the hillside. It's a bit of a climb but doesn't last too long. Eventually the trail passes through a shale flat and at 1.5 miles the there is a fork in the trail that is very well marked. To the left is the upper trail, and to the right is the lower trail. I usually take the Lower Trail here and turn RIGHT (although both eventually end up in the same place). 

Fork in the trail, March, 2019

The Lower Trail stays out on level for awhile and then starts dropping down the hill at 1.75 in and area called "BAD" on the map. This area was hit pretty badly by an ice storm several years ago so there are a lot of downed trees in the area. The trail workers have done a nice job of reworking the trail to make it passable.

At 2.1 the trail turns right into a valley and then at 2.2 turns left and crosses a small creek. Smith Creek is now visible down on your right. 

Smith Creek, December 2020

The trail then goes through a ravine and then up the hill. At 2.4 there are a couple of large boulders on the right. Just down the hill from this spot is a canyon area that is incredibly scenic. I definitely recommend going down and checking this area out. It will be dry during dry season, but will have water during the wetter months.

Canyon area along Smith Creek, December 2020

Back on the lower trail, at 2.5 there is a trail intersection -- this is the upper trail connecting back with the lower trail. Stay right. 

Canyon area along Smith Creek, December 2020

The trail crosses a small creek bed (during wet season there is a small waterfall just upstream here) and then at 2.7 the trail reaches Smith Creek. It is beautiful both up and down stream from this spot. 

Smith Creek, December 2020

You'll have to find a way across Smith Creek here. During wet season, this will be a wet crossing but will be dry during dry months. 

On the other side of the creek, you will hit the Main Trail -- essentially at the picnic area and small footbridge. From here, you can either turn right -- and go one mile up the hill back to your car. Or, I highly recommend turning left and exploring Smith Creek along the main trail and the wonderful emerald pools, rock jumbles and cascades it has to offer. You can find more details on the Main Trail here.

A rocky Smith Creek, December, 2020

This is about a 4 mile loop - counting going to Elise Falls but not including exploring further up the Main Trail. If you explore all the way up the Main Trail, you can add about 2.5 miles to the total distance.

Trail Details

Distance - 4 - 6.5 miles in mostly a loop

Footwear - hiking boots recommended

Difficulty - Moderate+. There are a couple of climbs of 250 feet or more and potentially a wet water crossing. 

Kid Friendly - Yes, as long as they can handle the distance and the climbing

Trail Guide - Tim Ernst's Buffalo River Hiking Trails Volume 5 (not in early volumes)

Rating - 4 stars out of 5

Most of the pictures on this post are from hikes in March, 2019 or December 2020.

Other Trails Nearby:

Buffalo River Trail - Boxley to Ponca

Hedges Historical Hike

Paradise Falls

The Glory Hole

 

Smith Creek Preserve Hiking Trails - Main Trail

The Smith Creek Nature Preserve is an amazing little spot I keep coming back to again and again. It is a beautiful little area, with several good trails that can be looped together. However, it often seems to get overlooked a bit as it's adjacent to the Buffalo National River and Upper Buffalo Wilderness Areas. And even when people visit, it is often to visit Elise Falls and then they leave, missing the amazing areas in the rest of the preserve. 

Boulder jumbles and emerald pools are a hallmark of the Main Trail in Smith Creek

The Smith Creek Preserve is an area managed by the Nature Conservancy and its volunteers. The Nature Conservancy is a great organization that is dedicated to protecting important habitats that feed important water sources and threatened species. The Smith Creek Preserves is an example of that purpose. The Preserve covers 1,316 acres - -with Smith Creek essentially running down the center. While what you and I see is above ground, below ground is Sherfield Cave -- which houses the largest colony of the endangered Indiana Bat in Arkansas. While the cave is below ground and not accessible by the public, the above ground is accessible for day use hiking/picnics. 

Earlier this spring, Michelle and I were hiking in an area nearby and got the pleasure of seeing one of the bats who had recently woken up from hibernation out feeding along the Buffalo River and it was an incredible experience.

The signboard at the trail head has a map of the area

Getting There

The Smith Creek Preserve parking are sits right off Highway 21 south of Boxley (which is about 5 miles west of Ponca). The parking area is 3 miles south on Highway 21 from the Boxley Baptist Church, or 1.2 miles up the hill from the Boxley Trailhead to the Buffalo River Trail. The parking area in on the east side of the road and is well marked. 

All of the trails are accessible beyond the gate at the back end of the parking area. There is a sign here that contains a map of the trail (I always take a picture of it) and often paper trail maps as well.  Today we're going to talk about the Main Trail through the area, and later I'll talk about my favorite way to loop the hikes in the Preserve.

The Main Trail

The Main Trail is really an old road that runs through the middle of the preserve. It is closed off to cars now but makes for a very nice, wide trail for hiking. The trail starts off steeply downhill. Then. at about .2, there is a trail that splits off to the left. That is the trail to Elise Falls (or sometimes called QuiVaLa Elise Falls) -- and is well marked. Stay straight as the main trail veers a bit to the right.  The trail levels out a bit, then goes down more, and does this a few times until at 1 mile (and about 250 feet of decline) you reach a small footbridge over a small drainage that comes in from the right. Just past the bridge is a seldom use picnic table.

The Main Trail at Smith Creek is well maintained and easy to follow

Smith Creek is the creek on your left -- will have water here during most of the wet season. This is when the trail starts getting really good. 

The trail stays on the level and follows along Smith Creek. It passes a couple of larger sinkholes. During the wet season, the creek is really beautiful and peaceful here and there are amazing wildflowers here in Spring.

Smith Creek

The trail crosses over another small stream coming in from the right. There is no bridge here but generally you can cross without getting your feet wet (although the rocks are SLICK here, so be careful). 

Past the crossing the trail starts going up the hill a bit and this is where things will get a bit weird (and REALLY beautiful). 

Small bluff along Smith Creek

The Main Trail continues on the old road bed and gradually makes its way up the hill to a large spring at 2.5 -- where you can turn around and head back. However, there are many marked off-shoot trails that make for easy passage down to to Smith Creek and the wonders down there. 

Smith Creek itself is a little paradise: small waterfalls, cascades, huge rock jumbles with emerald pools, just new beauty with every step.

Twin Falls along Smith Creek

My best advice here is to take one of the marked trails down to the creek. Follow the trails along the creek until huge boulders/rock jumbles block your path. Then, make your way back to the Main Trail (it never gets more than a 100 yards or so away) until you have a clear path down to the creek and then repeat this process as you make your way back up the hill. 

Beautiful emerald pools and huge boulder jumbles are a hallmark of the trail

Take your time. Explore. Enjoy the beautiful emerald pools. Take a nap on a large boulder in a boulder jumble. I've visited this place probably half dozen times over the past 2 years and always see something new or differently depending on the seasons and where the exploring takes us. 

Large boulders and small cascades everywhere

When you get to the big spring (or really, whenever you feel like stopping), you can turn around and head back the way you came. 

Note, the spring and the gate sit at approximately the same elevation -- with the footbridge below being about 250 feet below them. So there will be a bit of climbing on the way back to your car -- especially that last .2 miles from the intersection to Elise Falls. 

One of many emerald pools

This is an amazing area with a ton of natural beauty -- that not only preserves the area above the ground for you and I to explore, but also serves an important purpose of protecting the native bat species. Please enjoy and protect it.

Smith Creek in November, 2021. It's beautiful in every season

Trail Notes

Distance: Approximately 4.5 miles round trip (depends on the amount of exploring you do)

Footwear: Trail shoes or hiking boots - you'll want sturdy footwear with good traction on the rocks by the creek.

Difficulty: Moderate - mostly due to the climb out

Kid Friendly: Yes

Trail Guide: Tim Ernst's Buffalo River Hiking Trails Volume 5 (it's not in earlier versions)

Rating: 4.5 of 5

Most of the pictures from this hike were taken in April of 2021 unless otherwise noted.

Waterfall between two huge boulders

Hudson Shelter/Hudson Shelter Falls

Hudson Shelter & Hudson Shelter Falls is an area you don't hear a lot of folks in hiking/waterfall-hunting circles. It's is many of the major guide books, but I just don't hear of a lot of folks going there very often.

Lower Hudson Shelter Falls

So back in May, we decided to check it out. It turns out that the area is pretty well traveled -but is apparently much more popular among the rock climbing circuit than the waterfall folks. This is primarily because the waterfall is served by a pretty small drainage so it takes a recent rain to get it flowing. That said, even if the water is minimal, there is a lot to see here as it is also home to many great bluffs (the rock-climbers know!) and one of the largest natural shelters in the state - Hudson Shelter. I'm looking forward to coming back here again when the leaves are off for better views of the bluffs and valley below.

Getting there

Hudson Shelter is not far off of Highway 7 south of Jasper. Head south of Jasper about 14 miles (2.9 from the junction of Highway 16) to the community of Cowell. Turn LEFT (EAST) on FR 1204. This is a gravel road just across from the Northern turnoff toward Cowell Cemetery. There are two roads here, neither is well marked, be sure to take the one to the north. Travel on FR 1204 for 4.2 miles and turn RIGHT onto FR 1204-B. Go 100 yards or so and there is a parking area on the right -- and an old logging road that is your trail. 

Old logging road that serves as the trail has several downed pined trees

The Trail

Start hiking along the old logging road. It's a nice trail but becomes a mess pretty quickly as many tall pines have fallen blocking the road. But never fear, because of the popularity of this area among climbers, there is a nicely-worn, and easy-to-follow trail just to the right of the main road. 

After a bit, the trails turns to the left and weaves its way down hill (again, the trail is pretty easy to follow) and eventually finds its way to small creek. This is the creek that feeds Hudson Shelter Falls. The trail then turns RIGHT and follows the creek down toward the falls. After about .5 miles, you'll reach the top of Hudson Shelter Falls. There is a small cascade here as well.

Small Cascade above Hudson Shelter Falls

To get to the bottom of the Upper Hudson Shelter Falls, go to the left (looking downstream) and trail finds its way to the bottom of the waterfall. There wasn't a lot of water on the day I was here (even after a pretty good rain the night before). 

Upper Hudson Shelter Falls

The trail crosses in front of the upper falls (note, it gets somewhat close to the edge here, and can be a little slick, so watch you step!). On the opposite side (right side when looking downstream), there is a rock jumble of sorts that you can work your way down to the base of the lower falls and Hudson Shelter. Be careful on this as well as the rocks are often slick. 

Lower Hudson Shelter Falls (from inside Hudson Shelter). The rock jumble to get to the bottom can be seen behind the falls.

Hudson Shelter is about 75 feet deep and an impressive rock shelter and worth some time to explore.

Inside Hudson Shelter

Beyond the lower falls -- to the right (again looking downstream) are some really nice rock bluffs that are popular with climbers. I highly recommend exploring along the base of these bluffs a bit.

One of the many bluffs beyond Hudson Shelter

Overall, this is a really nice area and definitely one I look forward to checking out more in future visits.

Trail Details

Distance: 1 mile round trip (plus more for exploring the bluffs)

Difficulty: Easy hike to the falls, but probably easy-to-moderate in total because it takes some scrambling to get to the base of the lower falls and Hudson Shelter.

Kid Friendly: Due to the slick and high bluffs, leave the littles at home

Footwear: Trail shoes 

Trail Guide: Tim Ernst's Arkansas Waterfalls

Trail Rating: 4 of 5 stars

Other trails nearby: Fern Falls, Lonesome Hollow Falls, Round Top Mountain Trail

Shooting Stars along the trail. Shooting Stars are among my favorite Arkansas wildflowers

Leaning Log Falls & Adkins Canyon Falls Hike/Bushwhack

The Upper Buffalo Wilderness is one of the most remote areas of Arkansas -- but there is incredible beauty to be found for folks that are willing to explore this natural region. 

Middle & Upper Adkins Canyon Falls

One of the many great areas in the Upper Buffalo Wilderness area is the around Adkins Creek -- and a couple of area waterfalls. This hike isn't for beginners, but if you are comfortable exploring and bushwhacking, there is a lot to see and explore. While most of this can be seen in a single-day hike, we explored the area over back-to-back weekends in April 2020.

This hike is best done in winter or early spring when the water is high (for the waterfalls) but before the bushwhack part becomes so overgrown it's tough to explore. There is no trail in the area, and really not even much of a trace of one for most of the hike.

Getting there

The trail begins at the Dahl Memorial Trailhead in the Upper Buffalo Wilderness. To get there, take Highway 16/21 East from Fallsville and turn LEFT onto Newton County 9100. Travel 2 miles on this gravel road (with one possible exception - depending on weather conditions, this is passable by most 2 WD vehicles) and turn right onto a small road. There is a sign that points toward the Dahl Memorial Trailhead. Travel a very short distance down this road and there is a large campsite here that circles around a huge tree. Park here.

The Dahl Trailhead is named after Jerry Dahl -- the Ozark-St Francis National Forest Supervisor from 1956-1962. Thank you Jerry for your service.

The Hike

The trail leaves the campsite/parking are to the east (right) side of the open area. It starts off down an old jeep road and is a really pleasant hike. 

Upland Swamp

It dips down a bit -- and passes an upland swamp. There aren't many upland swamps in Northwest Arkansas, but this is one of them, and a fine one at that. There is an intersection of sorts right before the swamp -- stay STRAIGHT here so that you pass the swamp with the swamp on your left. 

The jeep road makes for a nice hiking trail. Just don't get too used to it.

The road goes back up the hill and at .8 hits a "T" intersection. Turn LEFT. The trail heads down the hill a bit into a nice little pine forest. This is as pleasant as hiking gets, but don't get too used to it. At 1.1, the trail ends up at a small open field that was probably formerly a food plot. The road continues into the woods on the far end of the small field. There are several really nice red bud trees in this area during spring.

One of many cascades along the first creek

From here, there are a couple of options. For navigational purposes, I find the easiest (and most scenic) route is to head down the road another 100 yards or so and then turn RIGHT off into the woods. At this point, head straight down the hill a few hundred yards until you reach a small creek. This is the start of what becomes some pretty serious bushwhacking and the forest is pretty thick with under-growth. It's steep and tough going from here on out.

More cascades

Once you reach the creek, turn LEFT, and follow the creek downstream to the first waterfall. It is probably faster to hike along the top of the ridge and just make your way down stream going downhill at an angle, but the creek has some nice little cascades and I think following near the creek makes this safer to navigate (no getting lost!) and more scenic and enjoyable. 

Cascade just upstream from Falling Log Falls

Follow the creek and its many cascades downstream -- staying on the left side most of the way down. As you get near the waterfall, there is a place where you're generally forced to hike up the hillside on the left and there is a large rock cairn here. Drop steeply back down the hill and there is a small trail of sorts here that crosses the creek across the top of Leaning Log Falls and in front of a beautiful cascade. If you followed the creek down, this is approximately 2 miles from your starting point (it's closer to 1.7 if you go the most direct, but less scenic route). 

There is a safe way to get to the bottom of the falls on the right (facing downstream) side of the falls. 

Leaning Log Falls

This is called Leaning Log Falls, even though the log has long-since washed away. 

Adkins Creek

From Leaning Log Falls, to get down to Adkins Creek, and Adkins Canyon Falls, find your way down to Adkins Creek. This is the large creek (almost looks like a small river) that is visible downstream from Leaning Log Falls. There is a safe-ish place to climb down near the spot that you used to get to the bottom of Leaning Log Falls. As with all situations in the wilderness, be careful. 

Grotto

One you get to Adkins Creek, be sure to check out the grotto below Leaning Log Falls. It's a beautiful spot. 

Small waterfall along Adkins Creek

Once on Adkins Creek, you'll need to cross to the other side. This will likely be a WET water crossing. Be careful, and with all water crossings in the Ozarks, if you can't see the bottom it is not safe to cross. But both days we went the water was only about mid-calf deep. Deep enough to get your feet wet, but not deep enough to be unsafe. 

Cascade along Adkins Creek

Once you cross Adkins Creek, you'll follow the creek downstream for about .3 miles. There are several amazing cascades and smaller waterfalls along this creek. Enjoy. There isn't a particular route I can recommend other than to stay near creek level, pick your way the best you can, and you might end up getting your feet wet. Getting high up on the hill to the right will keep your feet dry but is steep and slick, and not all that much fun in my opinion.

Neat waterfall area - I want to call this falls 12-Finger Falls...

There is a really neat waterfall through this area that has 12 different small pour-offs and deeply carved water paths that is worthy of checking out. 

My hiking companion along the waterfall area

At .3 (past Leaning Log Falls) the creek passes a really nice waterfall and then there is a creek that comes into Adkins Creek from the Right. There is a small waterfall right here that is also very scenic. And a quick look at this falls and you can see all the way up the canyon and see Upper and Lower Adkins Canyon Falls from here! Definite a scenic spot with waterfalls everywhere! 

Waterfall along Adkins Creek

The main creek also makes for some really nice scenery down stream from this spot as well that worth a look. 

Adkins Canyon Falls

Lower Adkins Canyon Falls

Once you get to the small creek and waterfall on the right, follow this creek upstream for a couple of hundred yards. There is another smaller waterfall about 100 yards upstream in a really nice, deep canyon. This is lower Adkins Canyon Falls. You can see the larger falls behind it. This canyon is beautiful in its own right and not to be overlooked. This small waterfall pours into a deep blue pool. 

Middle Adkins Canyon Falls (upper Falls in the background)

Once you have explored here, make your way up the hill around to the right to get to Upper Adkins Canyon Falls. This is a 42 foot tall water fall where the water falls and then hits the ground and cascades the rest of the way down into a nice pool. There is also a huge rock overhang here. 

Upper Adkins Canyon Falls

This is a really nice area to sit and joy nature at its finest. 

Once done exploring, retrace your steps back to your car. This is nearly a 1,000 foot climb back out from Adkins Creek, with dense underbrush and no sign of a trail, so you will feel it getting out. Just remember all of the amazing scenery you've seen that made it all worth it.

A small spring pours into the creek

Trail Details

Distance: 5 miles round trip. It's about 2 miles to Leaning Log Falls, and an extra .5 to Adkins Canyon. Tim Ernst lists this a 1.7 and .3 respectively, but with some additional exploring this came in at a solid 5 miles round trip for us. 

Difficulty: Very difficult. The first 1.1 miles is a very nice hike, but the remainder is steep and rugged. 

Kid Friendly: No

Footwear: Sturdy, waterproof hiking boots

Trail Guide: Tim Ernst's Arkansas Waterfalls

Star Rating: 5 of 5

Other trails nearby: Glory Hole, Magnolia Falls, Dixons Ford

 

Sneeds Creek Hike

The Sneeds Creek Trail is a trail that a lot of folks know about, but it seems few actually hike. I seldom see photos of the area on social media or online elsewhere. Sneeds Creek is a beautiful hike that includes a lot of natural beauty and old Ozarks history. I suspect the length of the hike (we netted 11.5 miles on our hike) along with the fact that there are 6 wet water crossings keep a lot of folks away. This is also a horse trail, so it can be a little bit rough hiking in places but not too bad. But the trail is worth it, wet feet and all. 

Sneeds Creek

The best way to hike the trail is to hike it in conjunction with the Hemmed in Hollow Trail and create a loop. It could certainly be done as an out-and-back, or in a loop with the Centerpoint Trail if you have a shuttle to get back to your car. But in looping it with the Hemmed In Hollow Trail you get two great trails, and end up right back where you started.

Getting There

The hike starts at the Compton Trail head near the community of Compton. To get there, go to the community of Compton (8.3 miles north of Ponca on Highway 43) and turn EAST on the gravel road immediately across from the JB Trading Post. After .1 miles, turn RIGHT onto the gravel road. Take that .8 miles and turn RIGHT on another gravel road and the parking area and trail head are just at the top of the hill. There is a sign pointing to the Compton Trailhead off Highway 43 and at the 2nd turn on the gravel road. 

The Hemmed-in-Hollow trail starts here. If you look just to the right of the Hemmed in Hollow Trail head there is another trail -- the Sneeds Creek Trail. This is the path that you'll return on.

The Hike

Start hiking down the Hemmed-in Hollow Trail. I won't go into a lot of detail for a bit because it's the same route you take to get to Hemmed in Hollow Waterfall.  

Hemmed In Hollow Falls

At 1.8 miles, you hit an intersection. The trail to the left takes you to Hemmed in Hollow waterfall. The trail to the right takes you toward Sneeds Creek. If you've come this far, you should absolutely check out the waterfall and return back to this spot. If you go see the waterfall, add 1.5 miles onto all of the mileage markers that follow. For the sake of his post, we're going to turn RIGHT here and head toward Sneeds Creek. And excluding the hike to the falls, this intersection is at 1.8 miles. 

Glade area

From here, the trail follows along the top of a small bluff for awhile and then at 2.3, the trail turns sharply left and goes to the bottom of the bluff. There isn't a sign here, and it's fairly easy to miss, but there is a rock slab with steps notched out of it that help you get to the bottom. At the bottom, the trail turns to the left again and down the hill. It then veers right and crosses over a really nice glade area. I always love these little glade areas because the colors are always so vibrant. 

Sneeds Creek

The trail then goes down some more and turns to the left and heads down to Sneeds Creek. The trail runs along Sneeds Creek for a bit until it turns right and crosses the creek. This is the first of 6 crossing of Sneeds Creek -- expect that during wet season that all of these will be wet crossings. Most seemed to be about a foot to 18 inches deep on the day we visited. As with any water crossings, be smart, and know your limits. And if you can't see the bottom, don't cross!  

Sneeds Creek

Once you've navigate the creek, the trail turns to the left a bit (there are a few other volunteer trails on the opposite side of the creek that lead to different camp sites, so stay left). The trail then leads down to the Buffalo River. This is the best place to get a good view of the river on the entire trail.

The Buffalo River

The trail follows an old road bed along the river for a couple of hundred yards and then turns right and starts heading steeply back up the hill again. At 3.0, the trail hits another intersection. To the LEFT is the Centerpoint trail that leads up to Big Bluff and the Centerpoint Trail Head.  Big Bluff is about 1 mile up the hill from this spot. For our purposes, stay to the right. And about 100 yards, you'll arrive at Granny Henderson's Cabin.

Granny Henderson's Cabin

Granny Henderson's cabin is a beautiful old cabin and was home to one of the last people to live in the wilderness area. You can read more about the triumph and tragedy of Granny Henderson here. Remember, this is a national historic site, so please respect this amazing spot. 

Sneeds Creek

The trail heads past the cabin and then back down the hill again and crosses Sneeds Creek again at 3.3. 

Rocky Bottom

Once you cross the creek, the trail turns left and heads upstream a bit and at 3.4 you hit one of the most amazing features in all of the Ozarks. At 3.4, the wilderness opens up to a HUGE rock slab that is larger than a football field. It's a bit hard to describe, but the openness of the area is a stark contrast to the dense wilderness that surrounds it. Sneeds Creek runs across this huge rock slab forming a variety of amazing cascades and waterfalls. There is also a smaller waterfall that comes in from the right. This entire areas is called "Rocky Bottom".

Cascades along Rocky Bottom

Take some time to enjoy the area.  

The trail then enters the woods again near the top of the rock slab on the right side of the creek (when facing upstream). 

Sneeds Creek

The trail goes back into the woods. It runs pretty close to the creek here with a lot of nice views. There are also a few old fields here. There are a few times that the wear of the trail (from people, water and horses) has cause the trail to erode to a couple of feet below ground level. 

Cascade along Sneeds Creek

At 4.0, the trail turns sharply left and crosses Sneeds Creek again. This is the 3rd wet crossing of the hike. This turn is pretty easy to miss, but essentially the trail dips sharpley down and to the left to the creek. You can just see the trail continue on the other side. If you don't cross here, there are remnants of a trail on the side you were on that continues for a bit but then sort of peters out as it hits a bluff area. Turn LEFT and cross the creek. 

Creek Crossing #3

The trail runs along the left side of the creek now for a bit and then goes back down the hill and crosses the creek for a fourth time. Every time the creek is in view it's another amazing, peaceful view. 

Creek Crossing #4 (Note the trail on the right on the other side of the creek)

The trail continues on the right side of the creek for a bit, and then crosses over for a 5th time at 4.4. 

After the creek crossing the trail heads up the hill a bit and for the first time in awhile there is a sign of civilization -- in the form a couple of old car bodies that have been laid to rest in the area. 

Just past the car bodies, as if the beauty and cascades that you've already seen aren't enough, at 4.7 the trail reaches a place often referred to as the "Place of Quiet Cascades". It does not disappoint. 

The Place of Quiet Cascades - Sneeds Creek

In this area there are multiple shorter waterfalls that expand the width of the entire creek -- each is definitely photo-worthy, and so peaceful. It's a great place to stop and have a sandwich. 

The Place of Quiet Cascades = Sneeds Creek

On upstream, are even more cascades and waterfalls. 

Quiet Cascades = Sneeds Creek

And it just keeps going. It's such an amazing stretch of trail along this beautiful Creek. 

Waterfall along Sneeds Creek

This place is simply amazing. 

At around 4.9 the trail crosses the creek for the 6th and final time. The trail then, sadly turns to the right and away from the creek and you see the creek for the last time. 

The trail follows an old road and switchbacks UP the hill. And I do mean up folks. The rest of the hike is about a 1,000 foot climb out of this beautiful canyon. The road is rocky and rough hiking, but easy enough to follow. The trail turns right and straightens out a bit, and then turns back left and on up the hill. 

Trail passing through an open field

As you make your way toward the top of the hill, the trail levels out a bit and passes through a couple of open fields that are now overgrown with cedars and past the remnants of an old rock quarry. 

After 1.4 miles of climbing at 6.4, the trail passes and intersection. To the right is the bench trail that would head back down the hill and connect with the Hemmed In Hollow trail and on over to Wild Vic's Cabin. Stay straight on the main road and up and continue on up the hill. 

At 6.5, the trail leaves the road and heads on a flatter and softer trail in the woods. The trail runs along the base of a steep ridge and stays mostly flat for awhile, then gradually climbs. At 7.2, the trail comes out at the parking lot, just a bit east of where you started, completing the 7.2 mile loop.  

Note, I am using the mileages from Tim Ernst's Buffalo River Hiking Trails book. But while his book says this is a 7.2 mile loop (8.7 if you take the side trip to Hemmed In Hollow), my fitbit said we'd gone 11.5 miles on this hike. Admittedly we do a bit of exploring that adds mileage (and we took a wrong turn when we missed the 3rd creek crossing the first time), even so this doesn't make up for the nearly 3 mile difference in mileage. I guess what I'm saying is that while this is at 7.2 mile loop, be prepared for something a bit longer. If nothing else, with the steep climb out, and the wet shoes, it will feel like more than 7.2! 

Trail Details:

Mileage: 7.2 mile loop, 8.7 if we include the side trip to Hemmed in Hollow

Difficulty: Difficult -- the length, elevation change and wet water crossings make this a pretty challenging trail.

Footwear: Sturdy Hiking boots are required, and bring an extra pair of socks to change into after the final water crossing

Kid Friendly: No

Trail Guide: Tim Ernst's Buffalo River Hiking Trails

Star Rating: 4.5 out of 5.

Other trails nearby: Big Bluff, Hemmed in Hollow, Hideout Hollow, McFerrin Point

Photos from our hike October 28th, 2019

Hedges Historical Hike

For years now, I've been wanting to hike an area in the upper area of the Buffalo National River that was rich in history and scenery. Oddly, however, not a lot of "hiking" guides mention the trail, which is mostly used by horseback riders. 

The hike takes visitors back to several historic areas, including an old cemetery, an old school site, an old homestead and some amazing views of the upper part of the Buffalo River, with some amazing scenery in between.

Hedges Hole

The old homestead was the former home of Margaret and Harold Hedges (Hedges Pouroff also bears their name). The Hedges lived in the area for many years and were key players in helping the Buffalo National River gain "National River" protections in 1972. Unfortunately their home was destroyed in a fire (believed to be arson) in 1991. They left their beautiful home site in the Buffalo River and gave the land to the parks service and moved to Harrison.

This hike takes you to their homestead and past many features along the way.

Getting there

The trail head starts at the Boxley Trail head of the Buffalo River Trail. The trail head is just off of Highway 21 1.1 miles south of where the highway crosses the Buffalo River (by Cave Mountain Road) in Boxley. Park at the Buffalo River Trail parking. While the Buffalo River Trail (to Ponca) starts on the opposite side of the highway from the parking area, the Hedges Hike stays on this side of the highway.

Root Cellar at the trail head

At the trail head is an old root cellar and the remains of the old Whiteley Church.

The foundation remains of the old Whiteley Church

The Trail

The trail starts off from the parking area down the gravel road moving away from Highway 21 toward an old barn and scale house. You'll be at the barn after .1 miles. The barn and scale house are key as there are a couple of other old roads in the area.

Scale House

 

Barn along the trail

From the barn and scale house, the trail turns LEFT and heads up the old road. You'll pass a gait that blocks the road and go up the hill then turn a hard right on the road and continue up the hill. This old road will be the type of trail you'll be on for the entire hike and is pretty easy to follow. 

The Old Road that serves as the trail

On up the hill, at .2, you'll pass a small cemetery. This is the old Whiteley Cemetery. There aren't a lot of grave stones there, and only two are faintly legible, but those two definitely tell a story. Both legible grave stones are of children that died at child birth around the turn of the past century -- a reminder of the harsh conditions early settlers lived in.

Born & Died, March 14, 1888

 

Isaac

This old grave marker is being overtaken by a tree

The trail continues up the old road. At .4 it passes a small pond and at .6 a very long stone wall comes into view on the left. The wall runs about .1 miles and is an impressive bit of craftmanship. The early settlers spent a lot of time moving big rocks to build these walls without any type of mortar.

Stone wall

The trail continues climbing up at a gradual pace. At .8, the trail reaches an intersection. At the intersection (just up and to the left) are the remains of the old Whiteley School House. This school house served the youth of the early settlers of the area and it's easy to imagine kids walking these old roads to school each day. Unfortunately, the school house itself burned down in 1999. Only the foundation remains.

Foundation of the old Whiteley School House

At the intersection at the old School House, turn RIGHT onto the road. This is a similar road to the one you've been hiking on and for now, the climbing has stopped. The intersection is about 500 feet of elevation higher than where you started, so you've earned the downhill stretch. 

The road continues gradually downhill. At 1.0 miles it passes a wilderness boundary gate. Continue on the old road.

The Trail

The road passes another old home site that is mostly just a foundation and and the foundation of the old cellar. It also passes a couple of small creeks.

At 1.1, the trail crosses another small creek that has huge boulders. This is a BEAUTIFUL area and definitely worth taking the time to explore. 

Creek and boulder area

Beautiful creek area

Once crossing the creek, the trail bends to the right. It goes up hill a bit, and then back downhill. At 2.1 miles the road finally reaches the old Hedges house.

The Hedges sure had a nice place to live. And there is plenty to explore. There is an old pond off to the left and an amazing stone driveway entryway. Their old mailbox remains near their old workshop area. All that remains of the home are two amazing stone chimneys and some miscellaneous fixtures within the foundation. 

Entry way and chimney at Hedges Homes

 

Hedges

 

Stone driveway entryway

 

Pond by the Hedges Home

 

Old workshop

It's really sad to think that arson forced the Hedges to leave this beautiful place. Once you've explored the home, continue back down on the old road and head down the hill. After a few hundred yards heading downhill the road leads to the Hedges barn.

Hedges Barn

From the barn, there is a semi-marked trail that heads down into the woods at the back and to the right. The trail leads down to the Buffalo River and a beautiful swimming hole that goes by a couple of different names: Hedges Hole (named obviously after the Hedges) and Pickle Hole (named after WP "Pickle" Edgemon who also once lived in the area). Hedges Hole is a beautiful little area and also a landmark or kayakers who are running the Hailstone (the common name for the upper part of the Buffalo River during high water) that they are nearly to Boxley.

Hedges Hole

 

The river serves as a great watering hole for all types of creatures

 

Hedges Hole

 

Hedges Hole

During time of low water, hikers can follow the river back downstream. Eventually a small field will appear on the right and hikers can cut across the field back to the trail head. During times of higher water, this will likely be a WET way to get back, and on this cold winter day we wanted no part of that. So we hiked back the way we came. 

I'm really happy we were able to do this hike. It's a nice hike in its own right, and allowed us to really get a feel for the lives of the early settlers to the area. 

Hike Details

Total Distance: 4.8 miles round trip (plus some for exploring)

Difficulty: Moderate -- it's pretty easy hiking but the trail has an elevation gain of about 500 feet each direction

Footwear: Sturdy Hiking boots are probably preferred

Kid-Friendly: Yes!

Hiking guide: Takahik Hiking the Ozarks Guide (by Danny Hale)

Other sites nearby: The Boxley Valley, The BRT Boxley to Ponca, The Lost Valley Trail, Smith Creek Nature Preserve Trails (Forthcoming), Upper Buffalo Wilderness Boen Gulf Access.

 

 

Granny Henderson's Cabin

The Buffalo National River is an area rich in natural beauty and history of early settlers. And there is no place that represents the sometimes painful collision between these two things quite like Granny Henderson's Cabin.

Granny Henderson's Cabin - Today

In the 1960s, there were plans made to put a dam on the Buffalo River -- to provide hydro-electric power and a lake for recreation as was common practice during this time. However, many in the area weren't in favor of the dam, and wanted the river to be left free-flowing. 

In an effort to keep the river free-flowing, a group of advocates fought for the protections of the River by making it the nation's first National River. This plan was approved in 1972 -- making the Buffalo River the first protected National River in the nation and allowing it to be the natural/beautiful area millions of visitors enjoy for recreation each year.

But saving the river from being dammed didn't solve all of the problems for people like Eva "Granny" Henderson. 

Eva "Granny" Henderson - National Geographic Photo - Courtesy of the National Park Service

Eva Henderson moved onto her 167 acres of paradise near the Buffalo River when she was 16 years old after marrying her husband Frank. They worked the land, raising cattle and food for their family. They never had modern conveniences like running water or electricity. For water, Eva made trips a quarter mile away to fetch water from the Buffalo River. Granny remained living in the cabin long after Frank passed away in 1959.

However, after the designation of the River as a National River, the government came around trying to reclaim the owned land near the river so it could be returned to wilderness area. In 1978, a couple of "Government Men" as Granny called them, came up to Granny and told her the aimed to buy her land. "They asked me what I thought of it," Granny recalled. "'I don't think much of it' I told them. I said it kinda short, because I meant it short."

In so many ways, Granny Henderson's comments there remind me of my own grandmother.

Remains of an old root cellar

The Government got it's way, of course. In 1978 Granny Henderson was forced to leave her cabin at the age of 87 -- after living 71 years on that little plot of ground. She moved in with her daughter "up the hill" and died only a few months later. Granny's story has been told many times, including by National Geographic Magazine. Ozarks Alive has a very nice , more comprehensive history, available online.

The story is one of tragedy for Granny Henderson, even in triumph in the protection of this beautiful national river. Even today, many locals are still very suspicious of the government's work along the river because of situations like Granny's.

Granny's cabin stands today, and is a popular stopping point for hikers and as a reminder of the rugged history of the area. It It can be accessed via several trails, including the Centerpoint Trail, Hemmed in Hollow Trail, and Sneeds Creek Trail (forthcoming). 

Getting there

The most direct route to reach the homestead is to take the Centerpoint Trail as if you're hiking to Big Bluff. After 3 miles of hiking, there is a junction that takes you out to the Goat Trail to Big Bluff. If you stay straight on the old road/trail, and hike for another 1 mile you will get to Granny Henderson's Cabin. It makes for about an 8 mile out and back from the Centerpoint trailhead with a substantial elevation gain coming back out. 

In Remembrance...

This is a very special place, so please treat it with care. You may enter the cabin, but camping is not allowed, and please leave no trace.

Nearby: Big Bluff, Hemmed in Hollow, Sneeds Creek

Leatherwood Creek, Including Balanced Rock Falls & Leatherwood Creek Falls

Leatherwood Creek is an amazing little place in the Upper Buffalo River that seems hidden in plain site. While hundreds of people visit the area almost daily, few venture in to find the beauty that awaits. Until recently, when photos of Balanced Rock Falls started popping up online, it was rare that anyone talked about this area. And yet, with just a bit of bushwhacking some amazing sites await, including several smaller waterfalls, several cascades, and one of my favorite grottos in the region.

Leatherwood Creek Falls

This trail is not marked, and not maintained. Some parts of it are relatively easy to follow, and others are just straight bushwhack. But beauty awaits those who visit. 

Getting There

Leatherwood Creek is super-easy to get to. Essentially, the parking area is the parking spot for the Ponca low-water bridge. Park in the parking lot by the Ponca low water bridge. Park, and  cross the bridge on foot. There is a sign there that points the direction of the Buffalo River Trail -- to the right heads to Boxley, to the left, Steel Creek. However, just a few paces to the right (toward Boxley) of the sign, there is a small path that enters the woods to the left. You'll enter the woods here. 

The Trail

Upon entering the woods, the trail (which is fairly worn at this point, and easy enough to follow) runs right along the right side of a mid-sized creek. This is Leatherwood Creek. This is the same creek that pours out of a small tunnel into the Buffalo River on the opposite side of the Ponca low water bridge. 

Leatherwood Creek is basically your guide for the entire hike....you'll generally following along this creek both out and back -- so as long as you can find the creek, you shouldn't get terribly lost. 

Historic Marker Tree (taken April 2018)

Shortly after entering the woods, there is a very prominent marker tree. 

The history of marker trees is somewhat mysterious, but they are generally believed to have been created by early settlers and Native Americans to help mark the way to important features like freshwater springs. 

I tend to also think that early settlers also loved the beauty of the area -- and may have also used them to point out really beautiful areas such as waterfalls before guidebooks and the internet made people more aware of these areas.

Regardless, there are hundreds of marker trees in NW Arkansas and they all seem to be in really beautiful spots!  

The trail goes on beyond the marker tree and for awhile follows the along the right side of the creek (while looking upstream). As noted before, this isn't a marked or maintained trail, so following along the side of the creek as best you can.

Bluffs with Spring (note water flowing from rocks center-right)

After about a 1/2 mile of hiking, the trail passes by a short bluff line on the opposite side of the creek, and in the middle of this bluff line, there is a nice spring that pours right out of the middle of the bluff creating a really nice place to gaze and nature's beauty. 

Just past this area is generally the first of several creek crossings -- most of which are wet crossings so be prepared.  

Waterfall along Leatherwood Creek

At roughly .75 miles, the trail runs upon a really nice waterfall on the main trail. This is an unnamed waterfall, but pretty nice, and probably the largest along the main creek for awhile. 

Old Homestead Remains

The "trail" crosses the creek again just above the falls. After a short distance, there is an intersection of sorts. You'll know you're there as during wet weather, there is a nice, small, waterfall that pours off on the opposite side of the creek. There are also some remains of an old home site on the right side of the creek.

We'll come back to this spot in a bit, but for now, we're going to turn LEFT, cross the creek and then leave Leatherwood Creek and follow this drainage UP the hill. 

There is a small volunteer trail just to the right of this drainage that can help guide the way, but follow this up about 150 yards (passed one decent sized waterfall) and you'll eventually hit Balanced Rock Falls. 

Balanced Rock Falls

Balanced Rock Falls is one of the most unique waterfalls in the Ozarks and the water really flows right under a rock that appears "balanced" on the sides of the falls. It's a really cool place and reminds me of several of the Indiana Jones movies. Don't forget to check out above the falls as well as there is another nice falls above Balanced Rock. 

Balanced Rock Falls (from above)

It was only recently that Balanced Rock Falls was documented -- mostly on various social media pages. I first heard about it in 2018. It has become a relatively popular destination in a short amount of time due to its uniqueness.

Once you are done visiting Balanced Rock Falls you'll return back down to the hill to the main creek.

Back on the main trail

Once you're back at the base of the side drainage, continue upstream. The trail is MUCH less warn further upstream as a lot of folks just go to Balanced Rock and return back to the trailhead and they miss some of the best stuff!  

Keep following the creek upstream. Make your way as best you can. You can get high up on the bluff on the left side of the creek and pick your way. Or, depending on the water conditions, you can sometimes make your way near the creek. This is the prettiest way, but be careful, as the rocks here can be super-slick and sometimes you'll dead end in a canyon and have to retrace back to get around it. Being willing to get your feet wet and crossing the creek a few times is helpful. 

One of many cascades along the main creek

If you do this, always be careful to not cross in very swift-moving water or in deep water. If you can't see the bottom, don't cross! 

Leatherwood Creek

But along the way there are many small cascades and waterfalls that are just beautiful. 

Cascades along Leatherwood Creek

There isn't an easy route, but the scenery is top notch:

After about 1.75 miles the creek hits a small waterfall that gets really close to the highlight of the hike (in my humble opinion).

Small falls before the Grotto

Just beyond this double falls is a grotto. It really is one of my favorite places in all the Ozarks. There is a huge cave overhang with the creek flowing over a ledge in several places. It's just amazing. 

Grotto (Looking in)

Grotto (Looking Out)

Just beyond the grotto is another larger waterfall -- this is Leatherwood Creek Falls. It would be worth the trip all by itself.

Leatherwood Creek Falls - photo taken April of 2018

Spend some time. Soak it in. And as with any place in nature, please respect the beauty and serenity of this special place and leave no trace. 

Once you've spent the time here, it's time to head back the way you came. Please don't go beyond this waterfall as it quickly hits private property and always respect private property. Bushwhack your way as best you can - enjoying many of your favorite cascades again along the way.

Trail Details

Distance: Approximately 4 miles -- feels like more with it being a bushwhack with a lot of unstable footing

Difficulty: Moderately Strenuous

Footwear: Sturdy hiking boots, and the more waterproof the better

Kid-friendly: No

Guidebook: None

Rating: 5 of 5

Nearby: Buffalo River Trail (Ponca to Steel Creek) (Ponca to Boxley), Lost Valley Trail, Villines Homestead 

Most photos taken October 27th, 2019 unless otherwise noted.

Stepp Creek Falls - Ozark National Forest

Stepp Creek is a fantastic area in the Ozark National Forest in an area that is part of the Buffalo River watershed. While it is best known for it's name-sake waterfalls, there are several secondary waterfalls and water features in the area that make this fantastic polyfoss area with 6 named waterfalls & cascades, and several other smaller cascades. And at about 3.2 mile round trip hike, that's a lot of enjoyment for fairly minimal hiking. 

Stepp Creek is a tributary of the Little Buffalo River (which eventually flows into the Buffalo River). The trail here is mostly bushwhack, and unmarked, although some of the trail follows an old logging road for easier hiking.

The week between Christmas and New Years featured a lot of rain, and Michelle and I used the time off around the holidays, and rainy weather, to visit some of our favorite waterfalls in the area. We had been to Stepp Creek before, but it had been awhile. And I'd actually never gotten an opportunity to write a blog post about the -- so I thought a return visit to brush up on directions would be helpful. And with the water flowing really well, it made for some really (in my opinion) good photos of the area.

Getting there

From Edwards Junction (which is the Junction of Highway 16 and Highway 21, 11 miles SOUTH of Boxley), turn EAST on Highway 16 (toward Deer). Drive 4 miles (this is 1.5 miles west of the community of Nail), and turn LEFT (north) onto Forest Road 1227. Drive .8 miles and turn LEFT at the fork, staying on FR 1227). After .25 miles, you'll pass a couple of cattle pens (one on each side of the road) and enter a wooded area. The parking area is almost immediately on your left in the wooded area. 

The Trail

From the parking area, begin by following the old logging road in front of the parking area down the hill. This road is closed off to auto traffic (by some big rocks and a large berm) but makes for very nice hiking.

After about .4 miles on the logging road, turn LEFT and start heading down the hill. Essentially, you'll then head down the hill approximately .25 miles until you get to the bottom of the hill. Stepp Creek is at the bottom of the hill.

I don't have a lot of advice here as there isn't much for even volunteer trails down the hill, just make your way down as best you can. There also isn't really a right or wrong time to head down, as you'll eventually hit the creek. However, at .4 there is a small drainage that I like to follow down because I don't hike with a GPS and following the drainage makes it easier for me to find my way back up. But once you get to the bottom of the hill, the hike becomes magnificent!  

Once you arrive at Stepp Creek, turn RIGHT and follow the creek downstream. Again, there isn't much of a trail here, so just find your own way. There are a lot of amazing water features the entire way so I prefer to follow as close the creek as possible the entire way. 

After approximately .8 miles from the car, you'll arrive at the top of the first waterfall. This is the 25 foot tall Upper Stepp Creek Falls. This is a really interesting waterfall with multiple tiers. 

The best way to the bottom is on the right side of the falls while looking downstream. Enjoy the falls, but there's a lot more to come! From here, continue to follow the creek downstream. When there is a lot of water, there's another small waterfall that comes in from the opposite side of the creek.

Continue on down the hill, and after about 100 yards, you'll get to the next waterfall -- which is the 12 foot tall Lower Stepp Creek Falls. From here, you can see both waterfalls from the same spot!

This is just a magical area. 

Continue downstream. There are a lot of great cascades in this next stretch. 

After about 100 yards downstream, there is another waterfall: Intersection Falls. 

Intersection Falls is aptly named as just downstream from here, there is another creek, Upper End Creek, that pours into Stepp Creek. 

From this intersection, we'll turn LEFT and follow Upper End Creek back upstream where several other waterfalls await. 

After a couple of hundred yards, you'll first get to Upper End Creek Falls.

A bit beyond this waterfall is Upper End Creek Cascade:

At the top of the cascade, you can just barely see another waterfall -- this is Upper End Creek Tier Falls -- which is also worth the hike up.

The entire area is just amazing. 

From here, I generally retrace my steps back to the car. There is a "shortcut" across the top ridge that can get you back to Stepp Creek Falls more directly, but I find there to be a lot of thicket and not all that pretty of a hike, so I prefer to hike along the creek to get back. 

In total, we hiked about 3.2 miles to see all 6 waterfalls. About a mile of that (.4 each way) is on the old logging road and easy hiking; the rest is pretty serious bushwhack. First, down the hill (and back up!). But then the area along the creeks is slick and rocky. And during leaf-off, it's really easy to step on some leaves thinking they are on a rock and fall into a hole up to your knee or thigh. So it's pretty rough hiking, but worth every bit of it in my opinion. 

Total elevation gain is about 750 feet climbing out.

Trail Details

Distance: 3.2 miles

Difficulty: Moderate-Difficult Bushwhack

Kid Friendly: This trail isn't suitable for younger children

Footwear: Sturdy hiking boots strongly recommended 

Trail Guide: Tim Ernst's Arkansas Waterfalls

Rating: 5 of 5

Nearby: Dismal Hollow, Glory Hole Falls, Boen Gulf Area, Smith Creek Nature Preserve

Tanyard Creek Trail & Waterfall

The Tanyard Creek Trail is a great hiking trail that is right in the heart of Bella Vista in Northwest Arkansas. The trail is an easy hike, and offers a bit of everything: creeks, lakes, waterfalls, bridges, cascades, a bit of history, and abundant bird life.

Trail signs say that the trail is about 2.2 miles in length, but I logged about 2.4 on my most recent visit and didn't even hit all of the trails. 

The trail is very close to town, and, near a golf course and a driving range, yet still feels very secluded. There is a fully functioning bathroom at the trail head, along with a pavilion for picnics.

The trail is also family friendly (including four legged family), and well marked, and makes for a nice way to spend an afternoon out on the trail. Because the trails make a variety of loops and connections, you can spend 30 minutes here hiking to the waterfall or a 1/2 day hiking the trails, looking at wildflowers, bird watching and reading all of the interpretive signs. Even though it's family friendly, the trail has a lot to offer and would be enjoyed even by serious outdoorsman.

Getting there

To get to the trail head, from Highway 71 in Bella Vista, take 340 Highway WEST for .9 miles and then turn left onto Nature Trail Lane and into the parking area. Highway 340 is 2.1 miles south of the Missouri/Arkansas border.

From the parking area, the trail heads down hill just past the Pavilion.

The Trail

The trail is a little more than 2.2 miles in length, and is essentially made up of four different loops that allow for the trail to be shorter or longer depending on what you want to see and the amount of time and energy you want to expend. 

I'm going to take you on the route that I usually take, which goes to the waterfall first. The waterfall is definitely a highlight for me and I always want to be sure I don't run out of time and get to see it!  

From the trail head, take the trail down hill just a little ways. Shortly, another paved trail will head to the right. This is the last of the four loops I plan to cover and is a .3 mile loop through some low grassland area that is full of small birds living in the trees. 

 

Trail map

 

You'll also pass by a trail on your left & right, and cross over a small bridge. I take this second left just past the bridge -- it's the trail that heads to the waterfall. There is a signboard with a map in this area that will help you find your way. Taking a picture of the map with your phone may be helpful with all of the trail crossings.

 

Mossy Pond -- Windor Lake damn is in the background

The trail quickly passes a small, mossy pond on the right. There is generally a lot of bird life in this area. The hill behind the pond is a damn that makes of Windsor Lake. The nature trail area rests mostly below the damn.

Continue straight. There is a trail that turns right off the main trail through the grass and up the damn. I ignore it and stay straight into the woods. There is then a second trail that veers left - I remain on the main trail which goes up hill a bit to the overlook to the waterfall. This is Tanyard Creek Falls.

 

Tanyard Creek Falls

 

Tanyard Creek Falls isn't truly a natural waterfall -- it is actually the spillway that comes down from Windsor Lake. However, it is a really beautiful waterfall, and has a very nice natural feel, and is a nice place to relax. It's also good that, unlike most Northwest Arkansas waterfalls, Tanyard Creeks Falls isn't seasonal - and tends to have water flowing nearly year around.

 

Windsor Lake - View from the damn

From the waterfall, turn back the way you came and then take the first left. This is a trail that heads UP the hill toward Windsor Lake. There is a nice view of the lake from the damn, and it is common to see folks who live along the lake walking their dogs along the damn. Windsor Lake was created in 1975 and covers 220 acres and is 79 feet deep. You can add a walk along the damn as a part of your hike as well. 

From the damn, I go back down the same trail I took up, and then turn left onto the main trail. Then, I take the first right. This right takes you down the hill a bit and across a bridge over Tanyard Creek. 

Bridge over Tanyard Creek

 

From the bridge, the trail goes both right and left. Take a right and just up the trail a bit is a view of a nice cascade that is coming down just below Tanyard Creek Falls. 

 

Cascade along Tanyard Creek

From here, turn back. At the bridge, stay straight. This is where you could have turned left off the bridge and the beginning part of the second loop. 

This trail quickly veers right and starts following an old road bed above Tanyard Creek. This old road was the route used by early settlers of the area. The trail has a lot of signs that highlight many of the tree varieties and some of the history of the area - including a tree that has grown up around an old rail road spike that was driven into the tree as a surveyor marker. 

The trail drops down the hill and when it reaches the bottom of the hill, near the creek. It reaches a rock bluff shelter and then turns sharply left and runs along the creek. The trail then passes the remnants of an old house. Not much remains of this old homestead.

Just beyond that, the trail crosses over a suspension bridge. Even as an adult I get a bit giddy at the sight of a suspension bridge. 

The trail then goes a bit further along the creek and some low woodlands until it eventually connects back with the main trail.

That's the completion of Loop 2. 

To hit loop 3, turn left and go a few yards until you turn right just before crossing the bridge. 

This trail follows the creek, then turns sharply left at a bridge crossing the creek and then crosses the creek several times as it heads back to the main trail. 

Then from the main trail, turn left, cross back over the bridge and take the second trail on your left, and then take the paved trail in the open grassland area. This is loop 4. From here, head back to your car.

In total, there is a bit more than 2.2 miles of trail here that can be mixed and matched for a variety of different experiences and distances. But all are great hikes that are good for young, old and even serious outdoor enthusiasts.

Trail Details

Distance: 2.2+ miles

Difficulty: Easy

Kid Friendly: Yes!

Footwear: Trail Shoes are advised, but tennis shoes should be fine

Trail Guide: Tim Ernst's Arkansas Nature Lovers Guide (the hike just to the waterfall is also covered in Ernst's Arkansas Waterfalls book. 

Rating: 4.5 of 5

Nearby: The Back 40 Mountain-Biking Trails, Bentonville Trail System