Exploring Northwest Arkansas

Sneeds Creek Hike

The Sneeds Creek Trail is a trail that a lot of folks know about, but it seems few actually hike. I seldom see photos of the area on social media or online elsewhere. Sneeds Creek is a beautiful hike that includes a lot of natural beauty and old Ozarks history. I suspect the length of the hike (we netted 11.5 miles on our hike) along with the fact that there are 6 wet water crossings keep a lot of folks away. This is also a horse trail, so it can be a little bit rough hiking in places but not too bad. But the trail is worth it, wet feet and all. 

Sneeds Creek

The best way to hike the trail is to hike it in conjunction with the Hemmed in Hollow Trail and create a loop. It could certainly be done as an out-and-back, or in a loop with the Centerpoint Trail if you have a shuttle to get back to your car. But in looping it with the Hemmed In Hollow Trail you get two great trails, and end up right back where you started.

Getting There

The hike starts at the Compton Trail head near the community of Compton. To get there, go to the community of Compton (8.3 miles north of Ponca on Highway 43) and turn EAST on the gravel road immediately across from the JB Trading Post. After .1 miles, turn RIGHT onto the gravel road. Take that .8 miles and turn RIGHT on another gravel road and the parking area and trail head are just at the top of the hill. There is a sign pointing to the Compton Trailhead off Highway 43 and at the 2nd turn on the gravel road. 

The Hemmed-in-Hollow trail starts here. If you look just to the right of the Hemmed in Hollow Trail head there is another trail -- the Sneeds Creek Trail. This is the path that you'll return on.

The Hike

Start hiking down the Hemmed-in Hollow Trail. I won't go into a lot of detail for a bit because it's the same route you take to get to Hemmed in Hollow Waterfall.  

Hemmed In Hollow Falls

At 1.8 miles, you hit an intersection. The trail to the left takes you to Hemmed in Hollow waterfall. The trail to the right takes you toward Sneeds Creek. If you've come this far, you should absolutely check out the waterfall and return back to this spot. If you go see the waterfall, add 1.5 miles onto all of the mileage markers that follow. For the sake of his post, we're going to turn RIGHT here and head toward Sneeds Creek. And excluding the hike to the falls, this intersection is at 1.8 miles. 

Glade area

From here, the trail follows along the top of a small bluff for awhile and then at 2.3, the trail turns sharply left and goes to the bottom of the bluff. There isn't a sign here, and it's fairly easy to miss, but there is a rock slab with steps notched out of it that help you get to the bottom. At the bottom, the trail turns to the left again and down the hill. It then veers right and crosses over a really nice glade area. I always love these little glade areas because the colors are always so vibrant. 

Sneeds Creek

The trail then goes down some more and turns to the left and heads down to Sneeds Creek. The trail runs along Sneeds Creek for a bit until it turns right and crosses the creek. This is the first of 6 crossing of Sneeds Creek -- expect that during wet season that all of these will be wet crossings. Most seemed to be about a foot to 18 inches deep on the day we visited. As with any water crossings, be smart, and know your limits. And if you can't see the bottom, don't cross!  

Sneeds Creek

Once you've navigate the creek, the trail turns to the left a bit (there are a few other volunteer trails on the opposite side of the creek that lead to different camp sites, so stay left). The trail then leads down to the Buffalo River. This is the best place to get a good view of the river on the entire trail.

The Buffalo River

The trail follows an old road bed along the river for a couple of hundred yards and then turns right and starts heading steeply back up the hill again. At 3.0, the trail hits another intersection. To the LEFT is the Centerpoint trail that leads up to Big Bluff and the Centerpoint Trail Head.  Big Bluff is about 1 mile up the hill from this spot. For our purposes, stay to the right. And about 100 yards, you'll arrive at Granny Henderson's Cabin.

Granny Henderson's Cabin

Granny Henderson's cabin is a beautiful old cabin and was home to one of the last people to live in the wilderness area. You can read more about the triumph and tragedy of Granny Henderson here. Remember, this is a national historic site, so please respect this amazing spot. 

Sneeds Creek

The trail heads past the cabin and then back down the hill again and crosses Sneeds Creek again at 3.3. 

Rocky Bottom

Once you cross the creek, the trail turns left and heads upstream a bit and at 3.4 you hit one of the most amazing features in all of the Ozarks. At 3.4, the wilderness opens up to a HUGE rock slab that is larger than a football field. It's a bit hard to describe, but the openness of the area is a stark contrast to the dense wilderness that surrounds it. Sneeds Creek runs across this huge rock slab forming a variety of amazing cascades and waterfalls. There is also a smaller waterfall that comes in from the right. This entire areas is called "Rocky Bottom".

Cascades along Rocky Bottom

Take some time to enjoy the area.  

The trail then enters the woods again near the top of the rock slab on the right side of the creek (when facing upstream). 

Sneeds Creek

The trail goes back into the woods. It runs pretty close to the creek here with a lot of nice views. There are also a few old fields here. There are a few times that the wear of the trail (from people, water and horses) has cause the trail to erode to a couple of feet below ground level. 

Cascade along Sneeds Creek

At 4.0, the trail turns sharply left and crosses Sneeds Creek again. This is the 3rd wet crossing of the hike. This turn is pretty easy to miss, but essentially the trail dips sharpley down and to the left to the creek. You can just see the trail continue on the other side. If you don't cross here, there are remnants of a trail on the side you were on that continues for a bit but then sort of peters out as it hits a bluff area. Turn LEFT and cross the creek. 

Creek Crossing #3

The trail runs along the left side of the creek now for a bit and then goes back down the hill and crosses the creek for a fourth time. Every time the creek is in view it's another amazing, peaceful view. 

Creek Crossing #4 (Note the trail on the right on the other side of the creek)

The trail continues on the right side of the creek for a bit, and then crosses over for a 5th time at 4.4. 

After the creek crossing the trail heads up the hill a bit and for the first time in awhile there is a sign of civilization -- in the form a couple of old car bodies that have been laid to rest in the area. 

Just past the car bodies, as if the beauty and cascades that you've already seen aren't enough, at 4.7 the trail reaches a place often referred to as the "Place of Quiet Cascades". It does not disappoint. 

The Place of Quiet Cascades - Sneeds Creek

In this area there are multiple shorter waterfalls that expand the width of the entire creek -- each is definitely photo-worthy, and so peaceful. It's a great place to stop and have a sandwich. 

The Place of Quiet Cascades = Sneeds Creek

On upstream, are even more cascades and waterfalls. 

Quiet Cascades = Sneeds Creek

And it just keeps going. It's such an amazing stretch of trail along this beautiful Creek. 

Waterfall along Sneeds Creek

This place is simply amazing. 

At around 4.9 the trail crosses the creek for the 6th and final time. The trail then, sadly turns to the right and away from the creek and you see the creek for the last time. 

The trail follows an old road and switchbacks UP the hill. And I do mean up folks. The rest of the hike is about a 1,000 foot climb out of this beautiful canyon. The road is rocky and rough hiking, but easy enough to follow. The trail turns right and straightens out a bit, and then turns back left and on up the hill. 

Trail passing through an open field

As you make your way toward the top of the hill, the trail levels out a bit and passes through a couple of open fields that are now overgrown with cedars and past the remnants of an old rock quarry. 

After 1.4 miles of climbing at 6.4, the trail passes and intersection. To the right is the bench trail that would head back down the hill and connect with the Hemmed In Hollow trail and on over to Wild Vic's Cabin. Stay straight on the main road and up and continue on up the hill. 

At 6.5, the trail leaves the road and heads on a flatter and softer trail in the woods. The trail runs along the base of a steep ridge and stays mostly flat for awhile, then gradually climbs. At 7.2, the trail comes out at the parking lot, just a bit east of where you started, completing the 7.2 mile loop.  

Note, I am using the mileages from Tim Ernst's Buffalo River Hiking Trails book. But while his book says this is a 7.2 mile loop (8.7 if you take the side trip to Hemmed In Hollow), my fitbit said we'd gone 11.5 miles on this hike. Admittedly we do a bit of exploring that adds mileage (and we took a wrong turn when we missed the 3rd creek crossing the first time), even so this doesn't make up for the nearly 3 mile difference in mileage. I guess what I'm saying is that while this is at 7.2 mile loop, be prepared for something a bit longer. If nothing else, with the steep climb out, and the wet shoes, it will feel like more than 7.2! 

Trail Details:

Mileage: 7.2 mile loop, 8.7 if we include the side trip to Hemmed in Hollow

Difficulty: Difficult -- the length, elevation change and wet water crossings make this a pretty challenging trail.

Footwear: Sturdy Hiking boots are required, and bring an extra pair of socks to change into after the final water crossing

Kid Friendly: No

Trail Guide: Tim Ernst's Buffalo River Hiking Trails

Star Rating: 4.5 out of 5.

Other trails nearby: Big Bluff, Hemmed in Hollow, Hideout Hollow, McFerrin Point

Photos from our hike October 28th, 2019

Hemmed in Hollow Falls -- from Compton trailhead

One of the very first hikes I made in the Buffalo River area 14 years was to Hemmed In Hollow Falls from the Compton Trailhead. At 209 feet tall, Hemmed in Hollow Falls is the tallest waterfall between the Appalachian Mountains and the Rocky Mountains, and while the hike isn't easy, it is very popular as hikers are eager to see this towering beauty of the falls with a trailhead that is easy to get to without a 4WD. While the trail to the falls is maintained, at nearly 1500 feet of elevation change the hike is not for the faint of heart, but a breathtaking waterfall and secluded canyon awaits those who make the trek.

Getting there

To get to the Compton Trailhead, go to the community of Compton (8.3 miles north of Ponca on Highway 43) and turn EAST on the gravel road immediately across from JB Trading Post. After about 1/10 of a mile, turn RIGHT onto the gravel road and follow it .8 miles and then turn RIGHT onto another gravel road. The parking area and trail head are just up the hill. There are signs at the turnoff of Highway 43 and the 2nd gravel road that point to the Compton Trailhead.

Also, it's worth noting that JB Trading Post is a fantastic establishment here in Compton. They make a great sandwich, and also have maps, trail guides, outerwear, socks, camping supplies and virtually anything you need to make your hike and camp a success - -and it usually pretty quality equipment that you'll be glad to keep long after your hike.

 This is a wet-weather falls, so it is usually best enjoyed in the winter and spring, and during times where there has been a fair amount of moisture. 

The Hike

There are two trails at the trailhead -- the one to the right is a horse trail that heads down through Sneads Creek; the one on the left is the main hiking trail. Today we took off on the hiking trail.

The trail heads down the hill gradually at first. Off to the left you'll begin to notice a small creek -- this is the creek that feeds Hemmed in Hollow Falls.

At about .7 miles, there is an intersection. Stay STRAIGHT at this intersection. The tail to the left takes you to Wild Vic's Cabin, and to the Right connects with the horse trail.

The trail continues going down the hill. In some steep parts there are stone stairs built to make it easier - there are other places that the steep slope has caused the trail to wash out a little and makes for some less-than-sure-footed hiking. There will be great views all around (particularly during leaf-off) so be sure to enjoy them. While the excitement of getting to the falls is usually prominent, at some point as you continue down thoughts about hiking back out of here is going to be HARD. 

At about 1.5, after a few switchbacks, the trail turns right at a rock slab right along the top of an overlook. It's a beautiful overlook and if you look closely you will see a notched out "U" in the bluff and you can see the top of Hemmed in Hollow Falls flowing over the ridge.  This is a great spot to enjoy -- and even a better spot to stop and rest to catch your breath on the way back up!

Keep going though, the best views are only a mile away. 

At 1.8 miles there is an intersection -- at this intersection, turn LEFT. To trail coming in from the right is the trail that comes in past Big Bluff and the Goat Trail from Centerpoint Trailhead. 

When you turn left, the trail goes downhill and back below ridge of the the trail you have just hiked down. 

At 2.3 you reach a creek that is downstream from Hemmed in Hollow and another trail intersection. Stay straight (left) on the trail.  The trail to the right goes .5 miles to the Buffalo River (and this is the trail that comes in from the river if you choose to float and then hike back to the falls). 

Follow the trail as it now goes back uphill to the big falls. After a bit you will cross a small creek that comes in from your left. Below here is a very nice double waterfall that is approximately 14 feet tall (note on the pic above that the falls coming in from the left has pretty low flow on this day).

Continue on the trail and you'll come across yet another nice, 18 foot (ish) tall waterfall on the main creek.

After 2.5 miles you'll reach Hemmed in Hollow Falls. It's a beautiful 209 foot tall falls that pours off into an amazing canyon. It really worth spending the time here to enjoy the area and have a sandwich or some snacks. You've earned it -- and you're going to need to refuel before the trip back up. You can easily climb back up behind falls (although, be careful, the rocks are VERY slick here). And notice that when the wind blows, it often makes the falls move from side to side and around almost like it's dancing in the wind.

After enjoying one of the finest places to in all of the Ozarks, you'll head back UP the trail the way you came. As mentioned before, the hike back up is no joke, and with 1500 feet of elevation gain in just 2 miles you'll feel the burn. Take your time, and drink plenty of water. 

Trail Notes

Distance: 5 miles round trip

Difficulty: Difficult hike on maintained trails

Footwear: Sturdy Hiking boots preferred

Kids: Older kids will be ok

Guide Book: Tim Ernst's Buffalo River Hiking Trails has the best trail description, although it's also covered in Tim Ernst's Arkansas Hiking Trails

Stars: 5 out of 5. 

Nearby: Hideout Hollow Trail, McFerrin Point, Paige Falls and Broadwater Hollow Falls, and the Centerpoint Trailhead to Big Bluff.  

Hemmed-in-Hollow Falls - via Buffalo River Float

Hemmed-in-Hollow Falls is an extremely popular destination in the Buffalo River area. At 209' tall it is the tallest waterfall between the Appalachian and Rocky Mountains. This is a seasonal waterfall that is really nice when the water is high in the late winter and spring, but you may ask locals before making the hike to the falls as it might be disappointing if it's dried up, which it often is in the middle of summer and in the fall.

There are many ways to get to Hemmed-in-Hollow. One long hike comes in from the Center Point Trailhead. Another, more direct route, comes in from Compton. This is a very tough hike however (that I've done on a couple of occassions, but not yet covered on this blog).

I actually took this hike for the first time 12 years ago on my first ever visit to the Buffalo River area with my then girlfriend. That girl eventually became my wife, and we've continued to come to the area ever since.

However, by far the easiest way to get to the falls is by floating the Buffalo River from Ponca, and then hiking back to the falls.

To get there, rent a canoe and take the float from Ponca to Kyle's landing. At about 6 miles into the float, you'll reach Jim Bluff (there is a stone at the base of the bluff with the bluff name written on it). About a mile later, you'll want to pull out on your left and park your canoe or kayak to start the trail to Hemmed-in-Hollow. The best landmark for this really is to start looking for it after Jim Bluff and right before the trailhead, the river will turn fairly sharply to the left and you'll go through a series of pretty tough rapids with a big rock ledge on your right. Where the river turns again sharply to the right (and over another stretch of rapids), the pullout is BEFORE the second set of rapids on your left. If it's a good floating day, you'll be helped by noticing the parking lot of canoes along the shoreline.

Park the canoe next to the creek that flows into the river here.

Start on the trail on the opposite side of the creek and follow the well-worn trail back to the falls. You'll cross the creek and continue on on the left side of the creek.

Along the way, you'll pass a couple of smaller waterfalls that are really nice in their own right. At one place, a small creek comes in from your left (you'll have to cross it too) and forms a double falls on your right.

At about .8 miles in from the river, you will enter a huge hollow with a 209' waterfall flowing right into the middle of it (note the people in the picture above). When the wind is blowing, it's not uncommon for the water stream to get blown so much it breaks up to where it's hardly visible until it hits the ground at the bottom. This really is a fantastic area, and there is no real way to describe the feeling of being there -- and pictures don't quite do the whole experience justice. It's a pretty hollow, with a huge falls, and a cool breeze and the sound of the water as it splashes at the base of the bluff.

This is a great spot and really a showpiece of the Buffalo River area. If you get the chance to float this section of the river, you absolutely must take the time to go back to the falls.

Distance: 7 miles by boat, 1.6 miles (round trip) by hike

Difficulty: Easy

Kids: Yes

Footwear: Because  you'll be coming from the canoe, I wear Keens on the river and use them for the hike as well. The protective toe is essential (in my mind) for both hiking and for being on the river.

Star Rating: 5 out of 5. This really is a first class day with the canoe and the hike.