Big Bluff is generallyer perceived to be the tallest bluff along the Buffalo River. It's is one of those places that I’ve seen from many different parts of the Buffalo River, including from across the river on theBuffalo River Trail, and even from Grandma Stella’s Homestead – but I had never actually been to the Bluff itself.
So last weekend we made the decision to hike down to BigBluff.
The hike to Big Bluff is actually part of a longer route from Center Point Trail Head that leads all the way to Hemmed-in Hollow. It’s a 10 mile round trip hike to Hemmed in Hollow from here, and there are shorter (but maybe tougher) routes to get there, but the trail down to Big Bluff is worth the hike.
The Center Point Trail head is easy to get to – as it is right off of Hwy 43 about 3.5 miles North of Ponca, and similar mileage south of Compton, just a couple of hundred yards south of the intersection of Hwy 103.
The trail is very easy to follow. The trail is well traveled, and shared between hikers and horseback riders (except for one stretch the trail is easy to hike for a shared horse trail as it isn’t as rutted from hoofprints as I would have expected, although the fact that it’s barely rained all year probably helped that). For all except about .2 miles of the trail it follows an old road bed, which adds to the ease of following.
So you start off down the trail and it is a nice stroll along the top of a ridge with great views into the river valley during the winter months when the leaves are off the trees.
At about 1 mile, the trail changes significantly and heads steeply downward and gets MUCH rockier. It’s still a good trail, and easy to follow, but you’ll just want to watch your footing. After a stretch, the road veers left and back down again. Along that stretch there is the remains of an
old homesite, next to a spring that they would have used for drinking water (I don’t recommend you drink the water here now though). There are even a few buckets still hanging from the trees that used to be used to gather water.
Just past the home site, the trail levels out a bit, although still going downward. At about 1.6 the trail bends left and leaves the road bed for a bit (the road continues up and to the right, but it’s barely distinguishable now). At 1.8 you rejoin the road at a place where several large boulders were put in the middle of the road to stop travel on the road.
The road continues and is mostly level, although there are some downward stretches. This area is spectacular hiking – the trail is wide, and there are views in both directions (again, in winter when leaves don’t obstruct viewing). To the right is the Buffalo River Valley, to the left is the Snead’s Creek Drainage.
At 2.7, there becomes a very wide stretch in the trail in a very open area. The road continues straight here – and goes to Granny Henderson’s Cabin, and Hemmed-In-Hollow. There is a little spur trail to the right that is the one you’ll want to take to Big Bluff. This isn't marked except for a small post a few yards down that notes that horses are not allowed beyond that point.
Now, before we continue, one note. The trail to big bluff is not officially maintained by the National Park Service. It’s well traveled, so easy to follow, but the NPS isn’t the biggest fan of people going out to the bluff because it is a dangerous place to go. Big Bluff towers about 500 feet above the Buffalo River. The Goat Trail that leads out to the bluff and then across a ledge in the bluff is about 300 feet or so above the river. It is a very steep route down if you were to slip and fall, and a fall would almost surely be fatal. So go at your own risk and please do not take children.
The spur trail heads down about 300 yards or so along some nice little bluff line area to your left (and steep drop to your right). It continues around a couple of corners and there is a great cave-like area to sit and enjoy a 180 degree view of the Buffalo River valley, several bluff lines and even an old homestead across the river below. This area made for a fantastic picnic area for Michelle and I as we soaked up the view and the spectacular fall day.
Around one more corner is a rock ledge that has more views. This stretch is particularly narrow, and dangerous. You have been warned (note Michelle in the picture below).
After this, the trail seems to come to an end and it’s time to carefully head back the way you came.
Trip Distance: 5.8 miles round trip to Big Bluff (this is a trail that may feel like it’s about 2 miles down and 8 back up as you will lose about 1000 feet of elevation on the way down, and then have to make that up on the way back).
Difficulty: Moderate to difficult
Footwear: Hiking boots are preferred, although a pair of trail shoes will probably work if you have strong ankles.
Kids: Absolutely not out on the bluff
Trail Guide: Tim Ernst: Buffalo River Hiking Trails
Rating: 4.5 out of 5.
