Exploring Northwest Arkansas

Steel Creek Multi-Vista Hike

The Old River Trail along the Buffalo River is essentially an historic pioneer road that used to connect little towns and homesteads of settlers that settled along the Buffalo River. It runs 13.2 miles along the river and is sometimes used by hikers, but more often by horseback riders in the area. 

I've spent a fair amount of time on the Old River Trail -- but have mostly viewed as a functional trail to get you from one place to another or to connect various trails. It has only been recently that I've found the joy of actually hiking the trail for the sake of hiking the trail. And wow have I been missing out.

Bee Fluff along the Old River Trail

While the Buffalo River Trail generally takes the high road -- in the woods, with sweeping views of the valley below, the Old River Trail runs along the river. There is little elevation change, and it has frequent looks at the river at river level and at the bluffs from below. 

However, hiking the Old River Trail comes with a few challenges. First, it crosses the river regularly -- 20x in total. So when the river is high, it isn't safe to cross (and thus, not safe to hike the trail). The river will generally be too high to cross through much of the late winter and springtime. Secondly, in the summer, the trail can become very overgrown - making it a little less fun to hike and making bug spray a must. And even when you catch it in relatively good trail conditions, it still makes for wet water crossings which will typically mean hiking with wet feet (and it can be very cold in winter). But when you hike it, it really is a great trail with a lot of amazing scenery.

For this hike, I decided to take the best of both by hiking the Buffalo River Trail from Steel Creek and returning via the Old River Trail in a big, 10.3 mile loop hike. Along the way we visit three of the best birds-eye views of the Buffalo River, have 6 river crossings, and a lot of spectacular scenery along the way. I highly recommend this as a pretty epic day hike, or even a nice overnight hike. 

Getting There

 The trail starts from the Steel Creek canoe access point along the Buffalo River. Take Highway 74 south from Ponca. At the top of the winding hill (about 1.5 from Ponca), turn left onto the Steel Creek access road (very well marked), and then wind down the hill to the Steel Creek area. At the fork in the road, turn right and park drive to the end of the road. There is a parking area here, as well as some nice bathrooms. The Buffalo River trail starts right at the bottom of the hill just above the fork in the road you came down. Turn LEFT onto the trail to start the hike.

The Hike - Buffalo River Trail Portion

The first four miles of the hike follow the Buffalo River Trail from Steel Creek to Kyles Landing. The trail follows behind the Steel Creek Horse Camp for awhile - gradually climbing.

Buffalo River Trail

It then eventually turns away from the camp and heads up in the Steel Creek drainage. It dips back down the hill and crosses Steel Creek at .6 miles. There is almost always water here, but if the river is low enough that you plan to hike the Old River Trail back, you should be able to cross without getting your feet wet. There are some great views of the creek both up and down stream here. 

Steel Creek Crossing

The trail crosses the creek and continues upstream and up hill for a bit before turning back to the left and continuing up the hill. It's about a 400 foot climb from here to the overlook but the view is worth the climb!  The trail passes by a couple of drainages and just keeps climbing but is a nice hike throughout.

Pancake Rocks

The Trail passes through some interesting pancake rocks and at 1.4 you've reached the Steel Creek Overlook. This is the first of three great vistas you'll see on this hike and if you're into a short day hike, I recommend this section as a stand-alone. 

View Downstream from the Steel Creek Overlook

From here, you can see Roark Bluff, the Steel Creek area, and some wonderful views both up and down stream. Enjoy the view before continuing on.

Looking down on the Steel Creek area.

Beyond the overlook, the trail continues up the hill for a bit with a few nice looks back at the  Steel Creek area. The trail eventually levels out and then starts heading downhill. The trail curves into a couple of drainages and just keeps descending downhill at a gentle clip. If you hiking during leaf-off, you will start seeing Big Bluff come into view in the distance on your left. There are a couple of nice views of it from the trail. If you have a pair of binoculars (or really good eyesight!) you can sometimes see people on the trail of Big Bluff about 2/3 of the way up the bluff. You'll be joining them soon!  

Big Bluff from the Buffalo River Trail

The trail continues down the hill and starts moving away from the river. To your left is the Beech Creek drainage. The trail keeps heading mostly down the hill toward the creek although with a few minor ups and downs within a couple of small drainages. At 4.0, just before getting to Beech Creek, the trail crosses a another trail. It is marked with a small sign that says "primitive trail". If you take the trail to the right, it follows Beech Creek upstream and then eventually to the Low Gap area. We're going to turn left onto the primitive trail and head downstream toward the river.

Primitive Trail and Getting to Big Bluff

The primitive trail drops down the hill and toward Beech Creek. At about 4.2, the trail crosses over Beech Creek. There will be water here, but again, if you're planning on crossing the Buffalo River later, it will probably be crossable without getting wet feet. This crossing has a really nice spring area, and a nice rock bluff. There is a campsite here too that would be a really nice place to spend the night.  

Beech Creek

In the Buffalo River area, a lot of the "primitive trails" are old horse trails that can be quite rough for hiking. But this is a really nice route all the way to the river. 

At 4.8, the trail meets the Buffalo River. This is the first of 6 crossings of the Buffalo River and all of them will be wet crossings. You can pack water shoes and change shoes back and forth after the crossings and keep dry feet. We decided that was going to be a pain and just hiked the remainder with wet feet. As always, if the river level is high and you cannot see the bottom, it is best to not cross the Buffalo River and live to hike another day. But if the river is low and clear, it is often about knee or calf deep to cross. 

Crossing the Buffalo River during low water. Note: Never cross during high water or when you cannot see the bottom

After crossing the river, the trail goes up the river bank and into the woods a bit before hitting the Old River Trail. The trail to the right goes to Jim Bluff (and onto Kyles Landing), turn LEFT here. After a few hundred hards, there is a volunteer trail that comes in at your right. There is usually some type of cairn or rock marker here to point the way. Turn RIGHT and take this volunteer trail. This is the way up to Big Bluff. You'll be coming back this way. 

The rock formation highlighting the volunteer trail up to Big Bluff

The trail takes you up about 350 feet to Big Bluff. You'll pass through a nice little pine forest, and some rocky climbs, but it's generally easy to follow. At about 6.3, there is a nice overlook over the Buffalo River area, and then after a rock climb, another view at 6.5.

One of a couple of vistas on the way to Big Bluff

The trail then turns left and runs along a ledge -- on the right is a sheer bluff and to the left is an increasingly steep drop to the river. This part of the trail also runs beside some ancient mountain junipers. These old trees are rugged and have been here for centuries. They're incredibly beautiful and please respect & protect them. 

Ancient Junipers align the bluff. Always be respectful of these historic trees

At 6.8 you are out onto Big Bluff with incredible views both up and down stream of the Buffalo River. The hike to Big Bluff is a very popular hike from the Centerpoint trailhead and this can be a pretty popular spot on busy weekends. But it's popular for good reason!  The views here are just incredible. This is your second major vista on this hike (and it's a good one!). 

View of the Buffalo River from Big Bluff

Sit and enjoy for as long as you want. (Note: like all bluff areas in Arkansas, be VERY CAREFUL along the bluff. It is a 350 foot drop down and fall here would mean almost certain death. There are not hand rails, no chains, just you and nature. So be respectful and safe and know your limits). 

There are few better views of the Buffalo River area than from the Goat Trail on Big Bluff

When you are done here, you will take the trail back down the hill the way you came to the Old River Trail. You will rejoin the Old River Trail at about 7.6. 

Old River Trail Back to Steel Creek

Turn RIGHT onto the Old River Trail and head back to Steel Creek. There are 5 river crossings in the next 3.3 miles. At each of these crossings are amazing views of the river both up and down stream and past some of the nicest bluffs along the Buffalo.

Fall Color Reflections along the Buffalo

At 7.9, is the first of the river crossings. To the right is Big Bluff -- you can see the ledge that you were just standing on awhile ago. It's an incredible look at this amazing bluff. 

Big Bluff from below at the 2nd of the six river crossings

At 8.4, there is another river crossing -- if you look downstream this time, it has another great view of Big Bluff from the opposite direction. In between these two crossings we noticed some substantial activity from the wild boars that are living in this area. So be aware and on the look-out for them. In my previous hike here I came across a couple of boars in this area so be aware.

Big Bluff at Crossing #3

 

At 8.8, there is another crossing ---- and again, amazing views both up and down stream. 

At about 9.2, there is an old house site up to your left. There isn't a lot standing still, but there is an old cellar there where settlers would have kept food cool during the summers and an old shed. There is also an old homestead up this way if you look around to find it.

And another crossing at 9.5. I encourage you to take a lot of time and explore and enjoy the river. The Buffalo River is the first national river for good reason -- it contains amazing scenery and is just beautiful. 

Fall Reflections

At 10.2, there is another side spur trail that comes in from the right. This is the volunteer trail up to the Roark Bluff Overlook. This is the third vista view along this epic journey. We didn't hike up there on this day as we were tired and chasing daylight a bit, but you can follow these directions to that overlook. If you go up there, at about 2 miles to your mileage for this hike. 

At 10.25 is the final river crossing. Upstream from here is Roark Bluff, one of the more popularly photographed places in Arkansas. If you made the hike up to that overlook, you can see what was below you from that ledge. If you look downstream, this is the bluff of the first vista that you encountered from below.

Roark Bluff from the final River Crossing

From there you'll climb up the river bank to the Steel Creek area and back to your car.

We hiked this trail on a warm day in early November -- and there was a lot of great fall color and the water was pretty low. 

Trail Details

Distance: 10.3 miles roundtrip -- included some exploring. Add 2 miles if you visit the Roark Bluff Overlook.

Difficulty: Very Difficult - it's a long hike with two big climbs and 6 wet water crossings. Be sure you are physically fit, prepared, and have good navigation skills. 

Footwear: Sturdy hiking boots. And bring along water shoes is you want to change out during crossings (we didn't).

Kid Friendly: Not young children. 

Trail Guide: The best guide here is the National Geographic Trails Illustrated map -- but directions of the Buffalo River Trail and Old River Trail (and the climb to Roark Bluff) can now be found in Tim Ernst's Buffalo River Hiking Trails book.

Star Rating: A solid 5 out of 5

Other hikes nearby:

Roark Bluff Overlook

Steel Creek Overlook

Buffalo River Trail - Ponca to Steel Creek 

 

Buffalo River Trail - Boxley to Ponca

Michelle and I are avid hikers. But we're not thru hikers. We both like to spend a day enjoying a nice hike but then welcome the comforts of home in the evenings -- like a warm shower, warm meal and and soft-ish bed.

Thru-hiking has always been a bit intimidating to me. And, unfortunately for us, a couple of Northwest Arkansas's most popular trails The Ozark Highlands Trail and Buffalo River Trails are designed for thru-hikers. Because of this, we haven't really hiked them as much as I would like. Thus, I've been looking for opportunities to hike these trails as a series of day-hikes. Day hikes are more conducive to the way we like to hike and the fact we have dogs at home and also, I think it makes them more accessible to the average hiker.

One of the longest stretches of the Buffalo River Trail is the first stretch from Boxley to Ponca. So for Michelle's birthday in April, we made the decision to hike the entire 11.1 mile section as a day hike. In order to do it as a day hike, either you need to two vehicles or you can pay for a shuttle. To do two vehicles, leave one at the Ponca low water bridge and then drive to the trailhead. Or, in our case, we parked at the trail head, and paid a purveyor to shuttle our car back to the Ponca bridge so it was there when we arrived. This is a pretty easy process and cost us about $35. Lost Valley Canoe or Buffalo Outdoor Center are the two most viable shuttle providers in this area. 

Getting there

The Boxley Trailhead for the Buffalo River Trail (BRT) is located just off of Highway 21, 1.1 miles South of where Highway 21 crosses the Buffalo River. The parking area is just off the west side of the road. 

There is an old cellar structure here as well as the foundation of an old school house that are worth checking out while you prepare for your hike. 

The trail begins on the opposite side of Highway 21.

The Trail

The trail starts off on the east side of Highway 21. There is a wooden sign there that marks the spot. The trail passes a gate and then immediately crosses Smith Creek. This is a dry crossing most of the year, but for our April (wet weather season) hike it was the first of three wet water crossings.

After the crossing, the trail heads through the woods on the left an then turns right and heads along the edge of a field. On the right is a large pasture, and to the left, a steep hill. Along the hill there are the remains of an old rock wall that likely served as the pasture's boundary.

The trail follows the pasture for awhile and then turns left and starts heading up the hill that was to your left. The trail heads up hill for quite awhile here and is the first of three climbs that are about 500 feet of climbing.

As you make the climb, a valley starts forming to your right. Eventually, that valley gets close to the level and the trail passes over the small pour-off crossing  and then continues into the woods and turns back left up the hill. 

As you reach the top of the hill, the trail bends left again and some nice bluffs form to the right. The trail then passes through an old wooden fence and continues on the level. 

The trail then turns to the right. While most of this 11 mile hike is awesome hiking, there are a few parts of the trail that are necessary hiking to get to better stuff. This next few hundred yards is one of those. The trail passes through an area on what appears to be an old road but it thick with undergrowth. It's fine for hiking, as the trail area is cleared, but it's not the prettiest of hiking areas. 

But soon enough, the trail gets better and goes through a gate and enters a large field. The field opens up to an amazing view over the Boxley Valley. While the trail may someday bypass this field, it is one of my favorite parts of the hike with big views across the valley and of Cave Mountain.

The trail goes through the field and down the hill, past a small pond. 

The trail passes the pond and then, at 1.7 miles connects with a gravel road. This is formerly known as County Road 25 and connects Shiloh Mountain Road on the top of the mountain to Highway 21 at the bottom.  Once you get to the gravel road, turn RIGHT and follow the road up the hill for about .4 miles. The road is seldom traveled so there isn't much traffic, and there are some really interesting views off to the left. 

At 2.1, there is a sign on the left that signals that it's time to turn left off the road back onto the trail.

After leaving the road, the trail passes under some power lines. Because of the "maintenance" under the power lines it's a bit of a mess to follow here, but quickly drops down into the woods into one of my favorite sections of the hike,

The hike follows through the woods. This area is full of Beach trees, so during winter, the leaves glisten in the sunlight. 

The goes around a hill and then crossed over a couple of drainage areas. These are mostly wet weather drainage areas, but there was some decent flow for our hike which led to a lot of nice waterfalls.

This area is a fantastic area to stop and spend a little extra time.

After passing through the drainage area, the trail straightens out and starts heading down the hill. It's just a beautiful area.

The trail follows an old road trace down the hill, then veers left off the road trace and past yet another waterfall area.

The trail continues down the hill and at 3.3 miles, reaches Arrington Creek. Crossing the creek was the second of three wet stream crossings for us on this hike.

On the opposite side of the creek is a campsite -- and it is one amazing setting for a campsite. I highly recommend spending some time here, taking a break, and enjoying the area.. It's peaceful, secluded, and has the sound of running water that just makes you feel one with nature. 

As a side note, if you are a day-hiker and can't arrange a shuttle, I think this would be a fantastic place to hike into and then back for a 6.6 mile round trip out-and-back. I think sometimes these out-and-backs can be great hikes and this would definitely be one of those.

Once you have done some exploring, and are well rested, you can continue. And it's a good thing you're rested, because from here, the trail begins the second of its big 500 foot plus climbs.

The trail takes a staircase up to the left. 

As you make the climb to the top of the hill, the trail turns to the left, and then to the right, and then back to the left again. While the climbing is steep at times, there is plenty to look at such as drainage areas, wildflowers and dogwoods that help make the climb all worth it.

 

At 4.1 the trail hits an old road trace. It follows this road trace on the level for 1.5 miles making for a nice stretch of level (and relatively quick) hiking.

On the level, the trail passes a lot of neat stuff, including an old signal tree -- the type of tree believed to be used to mark early trails by Native Americans. At 4.9 there is a spring with a nearby old home site. While we didn't see much sign of the home site, the spring was very prominent. 

The mud around the spring also showed the signs that wildlife frequent this spot to clinch their thirst.

The trail passes another spring that is flowing right out from under a huge boulder. The trail then turns and crosses a small drainage.

At 6.0 the trail reaches an overlook with an amazing view of the Boxley Valley. I've admired that old barn in the valley for many years, but it's definitely a unique view of it from here. There was conveniently a couple of rock "stairs" that made for nice seats to sit and enjoy the view for a bit.

After the overlook, the trail is first-class hiking for quite awhile. The trail continues its bend to the left, and then turns back to the right. The trail is has some nice little rock formations and nice cedars. 

After some pretty moderate downhill hiking, the trail starts a steeper descent toward Dry Creek.  

Just before getting to Dry Creek, the trail passes over a small road that is private property. You'll see a house off to your right where the family lives. Just cross on over the road and then at 7.6 you'll reach Dry Creek. While it wasn't really dry when we were there, you should be able to cross and stay dry with no problems. 

The trail leaves Dry Creek and heads up the hill a little and through a neat little area that was covered in small wildflowers. At 7.8 it crosses a little-used dirt road and then goes through a thicket of cedar trees. 

The trail heads back down again and at 8.2 crosses Running Creek. While this is probably dry in the last summer and fall, during the wet season you should plan on Running Creek being a wet crossing.  There are also some nice Dogwoods in the area. 

Just after crossing Running Creek, the trail passes through a small field, and then follows a small drainage. The trail then turns to the left and crosses the drainage and then starts heading UP the hill. This is the third of the big climbs on this 11.1 mile trail. 

The trail climbs about 600 feet in elevation from here - -and pretty steeply. I don't have a lot of advice except be in pretty good shape, take breaks when you need them, and there are a lot really great rock formations that you can admire as you take your breaks. 

As you make the initial ascent, the drainage you just followed and the Running Creek drainage are getting steadily further down to your left.

The trail eventually levels out a little -- and goes through a series of great limestone rock formations. This is a particularly interesting section of the trail. 

Everything here is just incredible. Enjoy.

The trail turns to the right and enters Big Hollow. It runs along the top of the hollow and crosses several small creeks that all end up feeding the (I presume) larger creek down below. This is a spectacular are that would have a lot of pretty interesting water features during really high water. 

The middle part of the Hollow is at about 9.6 miles. The after leaving the hollow, the trail follows on the level for a bit. You've finally finished the third climb. This section rewards you with some really nice pines, some rock formations, and really soft hiking trail. 

Around 10.2 the trail starts following an old road bed that leads down the hill to Ponca. The trail drops about 600 feet in .8 miles, so it is pretty steep in places. There are several great overlooks over the Boxley Valley along the way as well. 

The trail down has a lot of small gravel and is really steep in places, so watch your step. We have also hiked this trail up from Ponca (in an out-and-back to the Big Hollow area) and the climb feels a lot worse coming from the other direction.

After 11.1 miles, the trail ends on the South side of the Ponca low water bridge.  If you left a car here and ran your own shuttle, more if you organized a shuttle, your car will be waiting on the other side of the bridge.

If you have time (and the energy), there is plenty to explore around Ponca as well -- including the Beaver Jim Villines Homestead.  Beaver Jim was among the early settlers in the area and his family homestead is nicely preserved. The Buffalo River is also beautiful in this area, and during the spring when the water is high, many kayakers and canoeists will be here getting ready for their much anticipated journey. Through hikers can continue on the Buffalo River Trail from Ponca toward Steel Creek. 

Trail Details

The Buffalo River Trail from Ponca to Boxley is a really nice hiking trail. I admit that the combination of the distance, elevation change, and the thought of needing a shuttle can be intimidating. We helped overcome some of this by hiking portions on each end as out-and-backs in the weeks before the hike to help us get more comfortable with the trail. But once we got over our initial concerns this turned into an amazing hike for us -- one we look forward to doing again. 

Distance: 11.1 miles

Difficulty: Difficult -- this is mostly due to distance and elevation change. The trail itself is mostly well-maintained and easy to navigate so there are few navigational obstacles.

Kid-Friendly -- probably not

Footwear - wear sturdy, water-proof hiking boots. That said, the day before we did this trail I blew out my trusty (old) hiking boots. I had promised Michelle we'd do this for her birthday, and wasn't about to let her down. So I hiked this in a pair of Solomon Trail Runners. It's doable in a pair of trail runners, but I can't really recommend it as I felt every rock underfoot for the last 4 miles or so. 

Trail Guide: Tim Ernst's Buffalo River Hiking Trails

Star Rating: 4.5 of 5

Additional note: We hiked this during the wet season, which came with several water crossings. If you plan to hike this during the dry season (usually late summer through the fall), plan on these crossing being dry - -but also don't anticipate there being access to fresh water along the trail. So pack in the water you'll need to make the hike.

Trail Photos from hike on April 11, 2017.

 

 

Buffalo River Trail -- Steel Creek to the Steel Creek Overlook

The Buffalo River Trail is among the longer trails in Northern Arkansas. In fact, enjoying all of the Buffalo River Trail would take at least three days and a couple of overnight stays.

But if you're more of a casual hiker, or day hiker, don't let "through trails" like the BRT scare you, because even many of these trails can be enjoyed as a series of short, out-and-back hikes.

While I've never hiked a portion of the Buffalo River Trail that wasn't thoroughly amazing, the short hike from the trailhead in Steel Creek to the Steel Creek overlook is among my favorites. It's a great hike to an amazing view of the Buffalo R iver below.

Getting There

The trailhead is in the Steel Creek area of the Buffalo River. Take Highway 74 East out of Ponca for approximately two miles. The road curves up a steep, windy hill. Just at a very sharp "U" curve, there is the entrance to the Steel Creek area. There are signs and it's well marked. Take the paved road down the hill to the Steel Creek area. 

When you get to the bottom of the hill, the pavement ends. To the right will be a horse camp and river access. To the left is the campground. Find a place to park in this area. 

Walk back up the paved road about 100 feet and the Buffalo River Trail crosses the road. Taking the trail to the right takes you to Ponca (trail notes to that section of the trail are here). Today, we'll turn LEFT and go toward Kyles Landing.

 The Trail

The trail is a nicely maintained trail and enters into the woods here, and starts to gradually go up some stairs. You'll be able to see the horse camp to your left, and a steep hill and some nice, small bluffs off on your right.

You'll hike along the trail for awhile, pretty high above the horse camp and the Ranger Station. The trail will then swing right and head back into a drainage area. There are a lot of large rocks back in this area that make for some nice scenery.

Past the drainage, the trail heads back down the hill. At about .5, the trail gets low into the Steel Creek Valley (Steel Creek runs into the Bufflo River just downstream). The trails swings sharply to the right upstream on Steel Creek and  away from the Buffalo River The trail goes past a fire pit, and through an open area (with a couple of power lines that go to the ranger station) and then back into the woods again, past a another campsite.   This would definitely make a great place to spend the night!  

At .6, the trail will turn to the left and you'll have to cross Steel Creek. We were able to rock-hop across the creek here without getting wet, but I can definitely see how during the very rainy season that this would be a wet crossing -- so be prepared for that. 

Once you cross the creek, the trail heads up the hill and to the right -- continuing up stream. You are now beginning the 400 foot climb to the Overlook. The trail continues up, fairly steeply, and then makes a complete turn to your left. At this point, during high water, there is the makings of a very nice, large waterfall just down the hill in front of you. There's no trail to it, and it could be pretty steep, but on a wet day it's probably worth checking out.

Continuing on the trail as it curves to your left you'll continue hiking UP the hill. The trail continues up and eventually cuts through a series of very large rocks. It's a great stretch of trail that we really enjoyed. 

Then, at 1.4 miles, you get to the overlook. And it is amazing. 

At roughly 450 feet above the river, you get a great view of the Steel Creek recreation area, as well as some fantastic views of the Buffalo River as it continues downstream and winds through the valleys amongst a series of large bluffs. 

I highly recommend spending some time and enjoying the view. They don't come much better than this.

After you've enjoyed the view, you can make your way back. The trail itself continues another 6.5 miles to Kyle's Landing...but for the sake of seing the overlook, you can make your way back down the hill, across the creek, and back to the parking area.

This is a really great hike, that, if it were just it's own hike and not part of the much longer (and more intimidating) Buffalo River Trail, would be extremely popular. But it's a great overall hike, to one of the best views in the Buffalo River area.

Details

Date Hiked: July 3, 2014

Distance: 2.8 miles round trip

Difficulty: Moderate -- mostly due to elevation change, although may be more difficult during high water at the water crossing.

Footwear: Trail Shoes or Hiking boots

Kids: Youngsters should probably sit this one out.

Rating: 4.5 out of 5

Guidebook: Tim Ernst's Buffalo River Hiking Trails

Waterfall areas on Buffalo River Trail, Ponca to Steel Creek

Earlier this year, I posted some pretty detailed information about the hike along the Buffalo River Trail from Ponca to Steel Creek. You can the entire trail notes here.

In that post I mentioned several water run-off areas that I thought would make pretty spectacular water features during times of high water.

Last weekend the Buffalo River Valley saw several inches of rain so we set out to check my gut on  these water run-off areas – and they didn’t disappoint.

There are several along this stretch of trail – all are within about the first mile of this stretch of trail. So after a good rain, don’t hesitate to head out along this stretch of trail and see some of the
impressive water features.

One word of caution though, climbing up to the top falls here will take a fair amount of scrambling, and if the water's running well, that means it's probably plenty muddy as well. So be careful, and be smart, and don't do more than you feel comfortable doing. It looks pretty nice even if you never leave the trail.

 

Buffalo River Trail -- Ponca to Steel Creek

It's Spring again -- and we've had some incredible weather to get out and enjoy some hiking and being outdoors in Northwest Arkansas.

A few weeks ago, we headed out for a short hike along the Buffalo River Trail from Ponca to Steel Creek (and back). This is a small section of a the Ponca-Kyles Landing stretch of the BRT that is about 9.9 miles. However, as a short day hike, we just went as far as Steel Creek, and then came back. It's almost exactly 2 miles to Steel Creek, making it a 4 mile round trip, which was perfect for us on a 1/2 day hike.

To hit this trail, park at the Ponca low water bridge and then walk out across the bridge to the small parking area on the other side. Just past that parking area, the BRT heads off to the left and the right. For this hike head down river to the left.

The trail starts off right along the Buffalo River and after a short stretch goes under the new highway bridge that crosses the river. Right at the spot where you cross under the highway bridge there is a little trail that leads down to an overlook on the river -- a very nice little view.

Back on the main trail, you'll continue along the river for awhile. There becomes another spur off to the left that again heads down to the river. I usually take these spurs just as a method of exploring.  As you continue on up the hill a bit you get to yet another overlook. This is a great view with the river making two turns in front of you and a bluff in the background. This is also a challenging stretch of the river for canoeists (Michelle and I had an epic wipeout at this turn a year ago) so when the water is up and canoeists are on the upper Buffalo it's fun to watch people go through here and share in their joy as they make the corner.

As you continue on the trail it eventually turns to the right a little and heads up the hill. There is about a 500 foot elevation change here, so it's a pretty significant treck up.  There are also a few small streams that you'll cross over here -- none are challenging or wet crossings, but make for some interesting water features during high water. There is one that we're extremely excited to go check out after a hard rain to watch the water flow.

As you head out across the higher part of the trail you are inward from the bluffline a bit HIGH above the Buffalo River. During leaf-off, there are some spectacular views from up here -- during late spring and summer, the leaves will block most of the great views.

Eventually, you'll head back down the hill again through some really nice rock bluffs and features.

As you get to the bottom of the hill you are near the Steel Creek Campground. At one point there is a short spur off to the left and it goes to the campground and the campground bathroom (and running water).  Continue straight ahead for a few hundred yards and you'll eventually cross the newly paved road that heads from the highway to Steel Creek.

At this point, you're at 2 miles. You can continue on across the road to head to Kyle's Landing (a trail we'll discuss here another time) or, walk down to Steel Creek, check out the vally, Roark Bluff (right in front of you -- you can't miss it).  This is a great area along the river that is heavily traveled and includes a Horse Trailer parking area.

Whenyou're done here, you can turn around and head back the way you came - another 2 miles back (and another 500 foot incline back up).

BRT - Ponca to Steel Creek

Distance: 2 miles (4 miles round trip)

Difficulty: Moderate

Footwear: Trail Runners or hiking boots

Best Season: During high water -- November - April

Rating: 4 stars (out of 5)

 

The Ponds Loop

The Ponds Loop is a sort little trail (about a .4 mile loop) that is right off the road driving into the Southern part of Erbie (for the purposes of this blog I will differentiate south Erbie from north Erbie because the river crossing here is not always able to be crossed and definitely not always able to be crossed for those without a four-wheel drive).

The Loop starts just across the road from a little picnic area. The little route to the South Pond (pictured first with my lovely wife Michelle posing in front) is flat and wide and is actually handicap accessible. A short trek through the woods gets you to the North pond (secong picture). And then, it's another short little walk back to the parking area.

This little loop can also be added to the Buffalo River Trail -- Erbie to Ozark stretch.

This is an easy and scenic trail and great for people with young kids or for the elderly.

Distance: .4 miles

Difficulty Level:  Easy

Footwear: Anything will work

Children: Definitely

Guidebook: Tim Ernst - Buffalo River Hiking Trails

Time of Year: Winter/Spring/Early Summer (I imagine these ponds will dry up a lot by the end of summer and into the early fall).

Cherry Grove Cemetery Loop

Another historical aspect of the Buffalo River National River area is that it contains many old cemeteries.

These old cemeteries provide a lot of insights into the people who first settle the area and the difficulties of daily life in the wilderness in the early days.

Many of the gravestones bear the names of the nearby homesteads. Some have been replaced by newer gravestones. Some are barely legible.

One great little loop hike is back to the Cherry Grove Cemetery.

The trail leaves from the back of the Parker-Hickman homestead in the South Erbie area.

When you go to the back of the homestead area, there is a sign that points you to the cemetery. One way it points you is up the trail to the right, the other is up the road to the left. To do the loop hike, take the trail to the right.  This is the Buffalo River Trail that runs between Kyles Landing and the Erbie Campground.

The trail heads up a bit, past an open field and some abandoned farm machinery (I'm guessing this has been sitting there since 1978 when the final residents of the Parker Hickman Homestead moved away) and eventually comes out on a bluff that overlooks the Buffalo River (pictured). The trail follows along the river for a stretch and then cuts back inland, and eventually meets up with an old road. Turn left on the road and walk UP the hill a stretch and you'll get to the old Cemetery.

It's worth the time to read through the old grave stones. You'll note that many of the gravestones are of newborn children (usually less than a few days old) -- a reminder of just how tough giving birth was in a time when hospitals really didn't exist in the west. One family lost two newborn children 20 years apart. There are several "Parkers" buried at this site....likely family members of the original settlers homeowners from the homestead site at the start of the trail.

There is also a gravestone of a man who was "killed by Confederates" - (shown below) a rich testimate to what was a dramatic time in our nation's history. Because of the rugged landscape in the Ozarks, there weren't a lot of battles that took place here during the Civil War, but these people weren't completely isolated from it either.

After you take some time to explore, head back on the old road in the opposite direction that you came in on. This will take you back up the hill a bit and around before dropping sharply back down the hill to the Parker-Hickman Homestead. The whole loop is about 1.9 miles -- with the Cemetery being essentially the half-way point.

This can be a great little half day trip when coupled with exploring the old homestead and some time to play in the river (assuming river levels are safe for doing so).

There are also a fair number of other sites and adventures along this road to South Erbie and in the area if you want to make a fuller day of it.

Distance: 1.9 miles

Difficulty: Easy

Time of year: Can be enjoyed year around -- although in July and August I might recommend just going out and back on the old road to avoid overgrowth on the Buffalo River Trail during those months.

Footwear: Trail Runners -- although tennis shoes would work.

Trail Book: There isn't really a guided route to this loop -- but if you look at Tim Ernst's Buffalo River Hiking Trails Book you can catch a map of the area on the Kyles Landing to Erbie stretch of the Buffalo River Trail. It has details on the BRT stretch of the trail to the Cemetery -- and the old road is noted on the map.

Kids: This is a very kid-friendly trail in both directions.

 

Triple Falls/Twin Falls at Camp Orr -- Hiking via the Buffalo River Trail

Triple Falls at Camp Orr  just may be our favorite place in the Buffalo River Area (so far).  Even better, the falls is fed by two water sources (thus it's less-commonly used name, "Twin Falls" for the "twin" water sources) -- the primary of which happens to be a fresh-water spring. This allows for water to flow year-round at this spectacular spot although the 3rd falls may not be visible during the dry season.

There are several ways to get to Triple Falls -- there is a simple, short and flat route up from Camp Orr -- a Boy Scout camp along the Buffalo River (word is that the final bit of this road to the camp is VERY rough so if you don't have a 4WD this may not be the route for you. There is also a pull-out parking spot that allows for quick access off of the main road to Camp Orr (this is the route described in Tim Ernst's Waterfall book). 

Michelle and I wanted to see the falls but also wanted to include a little hike, so we started out along the Buffalo River Trail at Kyle's Landing and headed out toward the falls.

To find the trailhead, go all the way down to Kyle's Landing, and turn left at the campground. Drive back to the very back of the campground and the trailhead is right there.  You start out on the Old River Trail, but quickly turn left and head toward Erbie on the Buffalo River Trail.

 
From this spot, the BRT heads upstream up Bear Creek -- which is usually dry (when it's not, there is a small waterfall with a small watering hole (pictured above) that will be along the trail to the left) and then heads UP the hill. There is about a 500 foot elevation change on this stretch of the trail but it passes through some pretty awesome rock formations (a pic of me hiking through a stretch of the trail is just below) that are well worth taking some time to explore and taking a few photos. 

 
 

Eventually, at about 1 mile into the hike, you'll cross the very same road that you drove down on to Kyle's landing (if you're pressed for time, or want to avoid the first 500 foot climb, then there is a parking space just up the road from here where you can park and start the trail from here. You will miss the small little waterfall and the bluff formations though).

Continue on the trail just across the road.  You'll go through some wooded terrain where there are some good views during the late fall and winter when the leaves are off the trees. We did this hike in the spring, so we only caught a few glimpses of the views of the river from above.

 
At some point, the trail turns pretty rocky and heads back down the hill (this is another about 500 foot elevation change -- so you'll have to climb back up out of here when you're done). You eventually cross over the stream that feeds Triple Falls (don't panic if it's dry,the majority of its water comes from the Spring that is down river from here).  The trail then turns left and follows along the creek for a stretch.  During high-water season in the winter and Spring there is a beautiful little spot down here that you'll be able to see from the trail -- and it's well worth heading down to check out (pictured above). The trail eventually veers right off away from the stream and hits the powerlines. At this point, follow the trails through the powerline area and they eventually lead you to the top of the falls. 

 
When you get to the top of the falls, you'll at first see the Spring (pictured above).  Check this area out and don't get too close to the edge!  To get to the bottom of the falls, go out to the right and find one of a couple of trails that head downward. There really isn't a good way here, as all trails are steep and require some scrambling (but if you're on the trails they aren't particularly dangerous, just steep). 

When you get to the bottom, enjoy the beautiful, 48 foot tall waterfall.  I really love this place.

As usual, I recommend you take some time out, have a peanut butter and jelly sandwich and enjoy some time there before heading back (as Michelle is doing pictured below). When you're finished, head back the way you came.

 
Distance: While the falls can be accessed only a short ways from the road, this hike is 4.4 miles round trip.  You can save about 2 miles if you park in the little parking area along the road to Kyle's Landing and start from there.

Difficulty: Moderate/ Difficult

Footwear: I wore my trail runners, but I think Michelle was happy to have her hiking boots on.

Time of year:  Water will flow on two waterfalls year around, but if you can catch the third falls during high water season (winter/spring) it really is spectacular.

Trail guide: The falls is in Tim Ernst's Arkansas Waterfalls book.  However, the hike can be done by following the Buffalo River Trail: Kyles Landing to Erbie in Tim Ernst's Buffalo River Hiking book. The waterfall he mentions along the trail is Triple/Twin falls even though he never calls it by name.

Rating: 5 stars out of 5