Exploring Northwest Arkansas

Old Boxley Grist Mill

The Old Boxley Mill is someplace I’ve heard about for years, but I’d never been, so this past weekend we took the opportunity to go explore the old mill.

The Mill itself is just off Highway 43, just a few miles east of the junction to Highway 21 and is generally NOT open to the public, but the National Parks Service does open it up every October on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays for a few hours each day (10a-1p) for public viewing.

The three-story mill was built in 1869 by Robert Villines.

While up until this point, most grist mills were built on rivers, and reliant on seasonal water supplies, the mill in Boxley used a mill pond that was created by impounding a nearby spring so water was available year around.

The mill was used for 80 years, under three different generations of Villines. At its peak the milling capacity was about 200 pounds of meal per hour.

By the late 1950s, demand for meal began to decrease as store-bought bread became more popular and after a flood damaged the mill, Clyde Villines (the 3^rd generation owner) shut down the mill.

After years of falling in disrepair, the mill eventually was turned over to the National Parks Service and was entered into the National Historic Register of Historic Places in 1975.

In 1984, the National Parks service began restoring the old mill – but money is always tight and restoration was not complete. However, the Gorgas Science Foundation saw the innovation in the mill and also helped to renovate the old mill.

Today, the first floor renovation is complete and you can see an old pulley system, the old turbine, a couple of flour bins, the hopper where mill was poured in before it was ground and many bins that carried ingredients between floors. 

If you get a chance to check out the mill, it’s worth the trip to check out a little piece of rural American History. And if you go, and the mill is open, remember to bring a flashlight. There is no electricity in the mill so it can get pretty dark at times.

Distance:  It’s a short walk from the parking area that is just off the highway.

Difficulty: Easy

Footwear: Whatever you have on

Stars: 3.5, out of a possible 5.

Kids: Definitely

Old Boxley Church, Walnut Grove Cemetary

The Buffalo River Valley is full of history -- of early settlers that settled in the area for its lush natural resources and fresh water supply.

And many of the best historical sites are easily accessible in the Boxley Valley. 

One of these is the old Boxley Church. 

The church building was built around 1877 and served as both a church and a school. The school later consolidated with the Jasper School District, but the church remained. While a new church was built right next door, the old church remains in use as a community center.

Last summer, the community worked really hard to raise money to remodel the old church building -- spending about $75,0000 on the renovations. While the first floor remains with a lot of the historic charm -- with the old original hardwood floor and chalkboards still in place. The upstairs has been remodeled. The building still has no indoor plumming -- just as it was when it was constructed.

The building is a really cool look at a history that has long since past --but the history remains to remind us of where we've come from and a look at how we've gotten here.

Next door to the church is the old Walnut Grove Cemetary -- and both sit in just a fantastically beautiful location in the river valley with high bluffs surrounding the area. Both are well worth a quick stop off of the highway in Boxley to take a look around.

Elk

Last month, we were down Elk watching in the Boxley Valley and stumbled across this guy.  That evening we counted just under 100 elk grazing in the valley --- it truly was a sight to behold.

 

Hawksbill Crag/Whitaker Point

If you’ve spent much time in the Buffalo River Area at all, you’ve seen pictures of Hawksbill Crag – it is easily one of the most photographed areas in the area, and with good reason.

The hike is a short one, and relatively easy. Getting to the trailhead is a bit trickier.

To get to the trailhead, take Highway 43 from Ponca to Boxley. When the highway merges with Highway 21, take the southern route and continue on to Boxley. Right before you cross the Buffalo River, there is a gravel road that heads off to the road called Cave Mountain Road. Turn right onto Cave Mountain Road – you’ll know you’re at the right place when the gravel road heads up, seemingly straight up. This is a rough, rocky, steep road. I will note that we’ve made the trip many a time in our 2 wheel drive car without problems, but never when the road is wet and potentially slippery.

The road will eventually level out, and continue on Cave Mountain Road for a total of 6 miles – it will feel like a lot more.  When you pass the Cave Mountain Church and cemetery you’re just a bit more than a ½ mile away.  

At 6 miles you’ll come to a small parking area marked “Wilderness Access – find a spot to park here, or on the side of the road if the lot is full.  The trail starts out on the opposite side of the road from the parking lot. 

This is a heavily used trail, so following it should not be much of a problem.  It starts off down the hill (getting back up this hill at the end of the hike is easily the toughest part of the hike).  After going down a bit, the trail eventually levels out.

At about the 1 mile mark the trail will dip down a bit and cross a small stream.  If there is water flowing in this stream, there is a nice little waterfall that will be down to your right over the bluff. This waterfall is called Haley Falls – named after a six year old girl who got lost from her group in this area for 3 days and 2 nights and was eventually found near here.  If you go down to the bluff, there is a tree there that can help you get down to the upper version of this falls (and more importantly, back up).  There is a lower version of the falls that I’ve never been down to because we usually do this hike in October when the leaves are turning because the views here are so tremendous – but there is seldom much water here in October.

As you cross the stream, you’ll have an option to turn either left or right. Both trails lead to the same place (the Crag), just take different routes to get there. To the left the trail heads up on a higher path, further into the woods and further away from the bluffline.  The trail to the right heads right along the edge of the bluffline.

While the upper path is a very nice hike, we generally take the path to the right and come back on the other route.  If you go to the right, the next  .5 miles of the hike will be filled with interesting rock formations,  great views of the Upper Buffalo Wilderness and a lot of places to stop for a snack or just to soak it all in (and really, hitting this area in late October when the trees are in full color is just breathtaking).  As you observe all of the breathtaking views, PLEASE BE CAREFUL.  The bluff below you falls several hundred feet and a fall would be deadly. 

After .5 miles of bluff top views, you’ll get to the Crag. The views from here are incredible, and of course, there are a lot of little places to get pictures of the Crag itself.  Again, when you venture out on the Crag, be careful., it’s a long way down.

After taking time out here to enjoy the area, head on back the way you came in. When it starts getting steep you’re getting close.

Length: 3 miles round trip

Star rating: 5 stars (out of 5)

Footwear: Hiking boots or trail runners are fine

Difficulty: Easy/Moderate (only for the climb out)

Kids: Yes – but please keep them close when near blufflines

Guidebook: None required, but covered in Tim Ernst: Buffalo River Hiking Trails

This trail, unlike most in the Buffalo River area, does allow dogs on leashes.  Again, if your dog is the type that will pull you trying to chase a critter, this may not be the best path to take them on.

Old Villines Homestead

Over the past couple of years, the Buffalo River National River folks have been spending a lot of time and money fixing up many of the old homesteads along the river.

The Villines  Homestead is one that has been getting a lot of attention.

The Homestead was build between 1880 and 1940 and belonged to Jim Villines.  “Beaver Jim” as he was known built the cabin when he got married to his wife Rachael.  His boyhood home is across the river at the interchange from Highway 43 to the Ponca River Access and is driven by tens of thousands of tourists a year.

Beaver Jim’s adult homestead is easily accessible from the Ponca Buffalo River access. Just head down to the Ponca river access and park on the side of the river you came in on. Cross the old Ponca low-water bridge and then head out on the old road to the left. This is a part of the Buffalo River trail to Steel Creek.

Quickly, the trail will split – the Buffalo River Trail will head off to the left and the road trace to the right --- up the hill. Head up the road trace and within a few hundred yards you’ll see the old Barn. Go check that area out.

On the back side of the barn is a short trail that heads up the hill to the home site. While the barn area is not structurally sound enough to enter, the home site appears to be. Up here there is an outhouse, a root cellar, another old building and the home itself.  The home was once an small cabin, but appears to have been added onto several times and is a good size now. 

Stroll around the homestead for awhile and you can head back on the old road – down the hill this time to your car by the river. Round trip this is only about a ¼ mile stroll.

Mileage: .25 roundtrip

Difficulty Level:  Very Easy

Trailbook:  None

Kids: Definitely

Star Rating: 3 out of 5

Lost Valley -- Fall Hike

The Lost Valley trail is the most popular hiking trail in the Buffalo River area – and for good reason. It’s easy to get to, easy to hike, very family friendly, and has more “bang for your buck” than nearly any hike anywhere.  This is the first trail I ever hiked in Arkansas – and is one of the many reasons I fell in love with the area – it has everything, a natural bridge, high bluffs, beautiful woods, moss-covered rocks, a beautiful waterfall, and even a cave (that also has a waterfall).

To get to the trailhead, take Highway 43 from Ponca to Boxley through the Boxley Valley. There is a sign that very clearly marks the turnoff to the Lost Valley Campground and hiking area. Turn here, and about a half mile down the road you’ll get to a large parking lot with some restrooms and a shelter. The campground here was closed down in Spring 2011 after some very heavy rains washed away many of the campsites and caused a LOT of damage to the trails here. They’ve been working hard getting the trail back in good shape, and I hope they figure out a good solution for the camping areas. It’s such a magical place that I hope they can maximize the number of people who get to use it.

At the back of the parking lot, the hiking trail heads down across a newly-built rock bridge that heads across a little creek.  This is Clark Creek and you’ll be following it through the valley. It’s usually dry here, but there is often great water at the falls even if it’s dry in this spot.

The trail is very easy to follow – in fact, nearly the entire first half of the trail is handicap accessible.   The woods here is very pretty, almost tropical. I has a lot of fern-type vegetation in the spring and summer, and a lot of moss-covered rocks that in the fall provide a nice, bright green balance to the leaves on the ground.  There are also a lot of hollowed out trees in this area that are fun for kids (and adults) to take a look at.

At about .7, the trail splits. The left heads up, the right heads down. Go right. This heads down to a natural bridge with a little waterfall that tumbles out of it into a nice blue pool of water. It is possible to climb through this little bridge to the other side – although, if the water is high, it is easier to climb in from the other side.

After taking time to enjoy this little spot, the trail heads up to the left and around the bridge. There are some rock stairs here that were rebuilt after the flooding this spring. As you get around to the other side of the bridge, it is possible to climb down into the cave from the other side.  It’s pretty neat inside, so I do recommend it.

Back on the trail, the stairs continue to head up and eventually hit another trail (this is the trail that you passed when you turned right instead of left a little ways back). Turn right here. After a short stretch, the trail will split again at 1 mile into your hike.  Again, go right. This route goes down into Cob Cave – a GIGANTIC rock overhand that is great to explore.

As you follow the trail a few yards further you get to Eden Falls. There is usually some water here, but during the wet season, this is just a spectacular waterfall. It actually begins all the way up at Eden Cave, tumbles 31 feet out of the falls, then changes directions a few times, and then 53 feet into a beautiful blue pool of water.  The sound of the falls echoes through the canyon, and Cob Cave and really is just a special place. Sit for awhile and enjoy.

When you’re ready, head up the hill and you’ll once again reconnect with the original trail. Turn right, and this will take you up to Eden Cave.  This last section is a pretty steep climb, and is not nearly as easy as the route that got you here. Head on up this final .2 miles to the entrance to the cave. The way up has more great views of Eden Falls, and at the entrance to the cave you have a great look down at upper Eden Falls.  You will be tempted to try to scamper down to get a better photo of the water coming out of the cave – but let me warn you, this area is slick, and it’s quite a tumble down.  Just a few weeks ago a young man was trying to get this picture and slipped and fell, and his wife went to help him and she met the same fate.  Both had to be airlifted to a nearby hospital, so don’t let this be you – be content to enjoy the falls from above.

When you get to the cave, if you remembered to bring a flashlight (one for each person in your party), you can climb back into Eden Cave.  At the back of the cave is another waterfall actually inside the cave. Some day I will have the right camera, the right clothes, the right flashlight and the right water flow to slither back there and get this picture, but I don’t have it yet. Go into the cave as far as you’re comfortable and then head back.

When you are done at the cave, you can head back the way you came. Staying to the right each time you hit an intersection is the most direct route back and covers all the paths you skipped on the way here.

While this is a pretty short little hike, please leave yourself plenty of time to explore and just enjoy this magical little place and it’s definitely one the entire family can enjoy.

Distance: 2.3 miles round trip

Difficulty: Easy

Footwear: Trail shoes are generally fine,  but it can be rocky at the end, so if you have weak ankles, feel free to wear hiking boots.

Kids: Absolutely – only the last section to Eden Cave is not easy for kids.

Guidebook: None required, but covered in Tim Ernst’s Buffalo River Hiking Trails and also the Arkansa Waterfalls Guidebook.

The Rut -- October in the Boxley Valley

In the early 1980s, the National Parks Service and several other organizations reintroduced elk into the Buffalo River area. Elk are native to the area, but due to over-hunting had beenn non-existent in the area for decades.

The herds were pulled from a couple of different herds in Nebraska and Colorado -- and have been very successfully reintroduced. Now, approximately 450 Elk call the area around the Buffalo River Home.

Every October comes "the rut", which is mating season.  The bull elk have their full set of antlers and the sound of elk bugles can be heard throughout many of the valleys.

On this page are just a few of the hundreds of pictures we have taken of the elk over the past month.

One of the best places to see the elk is in the Boxley Valley. Just take highway 43 between Ponca and Boxley -- usually about an hour before dusk and an hour or two after dawn. The Parks Service has worked out an agreement with area farmers to alternate fields for cattle. The elk generally don't hang out with the cattle, so they'll migrate to fields where the cattle aren't. 

The elk are generally pretty easy to spot and watch from the road.  Just be sure to pull all the way off the highway -- because they will ticket you if your car is still on the road. Also, please respect the fence lines off the road -- because this is private property on the other side of the fences.  You won't need binoculars to see the elk, but a set of 250 or 300x binoculars will make the experience a lot more enjoyable -- and a small zoom lense will help with the photos as well.  These shots were all taken with a max 270 mm zoom lense, so it doesn't have to be super-high powered.

The elk come down to this area year-around, although October is my favorite time to see them --  and when the biggest crowds are out along the side of the highway.  These are magnificent creatures and one of the first reintrodutions done to areas where they had been killed off.  Missouri has also recently reintroduced elk into their Ozark region, and I hope theirs is equally successful.

 

Trumpeter Swan in Boxley Valley

 Some of the best wildlife viewing in the area is in the Boxley Valley (essentially along the stretch of highway 43 between Ponca and Boxley).

While this is a spectacular place to catch Elk in the early mornings and late evenings, it is also usually home to a couple of Trumpeter Swans that hang out on one of the large ponds along the stretch.  They always seem so peaceful.