Exploring Northwest Arkansas

Fall Color

I love the fall color in Arkansas. While it may not have the same vibrancy as you get in New England, and Wisconsin, the colors and views are still amazing. When matched with the outstanding views, the Elk rut, and the perfect temperatures for hiking -- it makes for an incredible time to visit the Buffalo River area. The following are just a few of the pics we took last week. The colors should be at their peak over the next 10 days or so.

This picture was taken near Steel Creek.

Roark Bluff

From the Ponca low water bridge

Young bull in front of a barn in the Boxley Valley.

Many of my favorite hiking trails this time of year include overlook trails, such as Pedestal Rocks, Sam's Throne, Old Erbie Loop Hike, McFarrin Point, or Hawksbill Crag. There are also some fantastic scenic drives -- including along Highway 7 and the drive to Sam's Throne.

But the reality is that the colors are everywhere, and you really can't go wrong. And remember, the best of the fall color isn't always seen by looking up -- sometimes it's seen by looking down -- as evidenced by this fantastic mossy area we saw on the Buffalo River Trail from Ponca to Steel Creek.

Old Boxley Church, Walnut Grove Cemetary

The Buffalo River Valley is full of history -- of early settlers that settled in the area for its lush natural resources and fresh water supply.

And many of the best historical sites are easily accessible in the Boxley Valley. 

One of these is the old Boxley Church. 

The church building was built around 1877 and served as both a church and a school. The school later consolidated with the Jasper School District, but the church remained. While a new church was built right next door, the old church remains in use as a community center.

Last summer, the community worked really hard to raise money to remodel the old church building -- spending about $75,0000 on the renovations. While the first floor remains with a lot of the historic charm -- with the old original hardwood floor and chalkboards still in place. The upstairs has been remodeled. The building still has no indoor plumming -- just as it was when it was constructed.

The building is a really cool look at a history that has long since past --but the history remains to remind us of where we've come from and a look at how we've gotten here.

Next door to the church is the old Walnut Grove Cemetary -- and both sit in just a fantastically beautiful location in the river valley with high bluffs surrounding the area. Both are well worth a quick stop off of the highway in Boxley to take a look around.

Hawksbill Crag/Whitaker Point

If you’ve spent much time in the Buffalo River Area at all, you’ve seen pictures of Hawksbill Crag – it is easily one of the most photographed areas in the area, and with good reason.

The hike is a short one, and relatively easy. Getting to the trailhead is a bit trickier.

To get to the trailhead, take Highway 43 from Ponca to Boxley. When the highway merges with Highway 21, take the southern route and continue on to Boxley. Right before you cross the Buffalo River, there is a gravel road that heads off to the road called Cave Mountain Road. Turn right onto Cave Mountain Road – you’ll know you’re at the right place when the gravel road heads up, seemingly straight up. This is a rough, rocky, steep road. I will note that we’ve made the trip many a time in our 2 wheel drive car without problems, but never when the road is wet and potentially slippery.

The road will eventually level out, and continue on Cave Mountain Road for a total of 6 miles – it will feel like a lot more.  When you pass the Cave Mountain Church and cemetery you’re just a bit more than a ½ mile away.  

At 6 miles you’ll come to a small parking area marked “Wilderness Access – find a spot to park here, or on the side of the road if the lot is full.  The trail starts out on the opposite side of the road from the parking lot. 

This is a heavily used trail, so following it should not be much of a problem.  It starts off down the hill (getting back up this hill at the end of the hike is easily the toughest part of the hike).  After going down a bit, the trail eventually levels out.

At about the 1 mile mark the trail will dip down a bit and cross a small stream.  If there is water flowing in this stream, there is a nice little waterfall that will be down to your right over the bluff. This waterfall is called Haley Falls – named after a six year old girl who got lost from her group in this area for 3 days and 2 nights and was eventually found near here.  If you go down to the bluff, there is a tree there that can help you get down to the upper version of this falls (and more importantly, back up).  There is a lower version of the falls that I’ve never been down to because we usually do this hike in October when the leaves are turning because the views here are so tremendous – but there is seldom much water here in October.

As you cross the stream, you’ll have an option to turn either left or right. Both trails lead to the same place (the Crag), just take different routes to get there. To the left the trail heads up on a higher path, further into the woods and further away from the bluffline.  The trail to the right heads right along the edge of the bluffline.

While the upper path is a very nice hike, we generally take the path to the right and come back on the other route.  If you go to the right, the next  .5 miles of the hike will be filled with interesting rock formations,  great views of the Upper Buffalo Wilderness and a lot of places to stop for a snack or just to soak it all in (and really, hitting this area in late October when the trees are in full color is just breathtaking).  As you observe all of the breathtaking views, PLEASE BE CAREFUL.  The bluff below you falls several hundred feet and a fall would be deadly. 

After .5 miles of bluff top views, you’ll get to the Crag. The views from here are incredible, and of course, there are a lot of little places to get pictures of the Crag itself.  Again, when you venture out on the Crag, be careful., it’s a long way down.

After taking time out here to enjoy the area, head on back the way you came in. When it starts getting steep you’re getting close.

Length: 3 miles round trip

Star rating: 5 stars (out of 5)

Footwear: Hiking boots or trail runners are fine

Difficulty: Easy/Moderate (only for the climb out)

Kids: Yes – but please keep them close when near blufflines

Guidebook: None required, but covered in Tim Ernst: Buffalo River Hiking Trails

This trail, unlike most in the Buffalo River area, does allow dogs on leashes.  Again, if your dog is the type that will pull you trying to chase a critter, this may not be the best path to take them on.

Rush - Morningstar Loop and Old Mine Trail

These two trails combine for a nice little family-friendly hike and educational tour through the Historic Ghost Town of Rush. 

The oldest structure in Rush.

To get to the community of Rush, follow the instructions here, then park at the first parking area you come to on your left (just past the row of old buildings that are on your right). 

The Morningstar Loop has a lot of signs to tell the story of Rush.

We're going to start on the Morningstar Loop Trail, which is a short .1 mile loop that starts off to your left.  The trail starts off and passes and old smelter – the oldest structure in Rush dating back to 1886, then continues up, passed the remains of an old Livery Barn that was built in the 1890s, a great view through the trees at the old homes and general store you passed on the way in, passed an old Blacksmith shop (that is still standing and pictured here) and then the remains of the Morning Star Processing Mill, and several other old ruins.

A view of the old general store below.

This little loop (which is about .2 miles long) has a lot of history and reading --- and worth taking the time to spend reading the plaques to learn about the history of the area.

The old livery barn is in great condition.

Midway through the Morningstar Loop is a route that heads to the left and UP the hill. At this point, if you're just doing the short Morningstar Loop, you can continue off to your right past some more old ruins and back down to the main parking area.  If you are doing the Old Mine Trail, then you'll turn left and head up the hill.  This is a pretty steep climb but the trail is really good so it shouldn’t be too bad.

Once at the top (.2 miles) the trail levels out.  There is a small, unmarked path to the left here that is the start of the Monte Cristo Loop Hike from this direction.   For our purposes, stay on the main trail (it’s easy to tell which is the main trail). 

As you follow along this main trail you’ll pass at least 7 different mine sites. The trail is pretty level with a few ups and downs – but is all very easy to follow.  The mines are pretty interesting by themselves, and the remnants of the old Zinc Ore mining that was the whole reason for this former community’s existence. Zinc was mined here from about 1880 until after World War I.  Things stopped for awhile and the mines were re-opened in the 1960s – but only for a brief amount of time.

All of the mines here are fenced off, with additional grates that prevent you from entering the mines if you go around the fencing. Please obey the fencing – these old mines are unstable and not safe to enter.

As you pass the last of the mines on this trail, the road will head back down hill. At one point, the main trail heads LEFT off the old road.  Take this to the left, and it will head off into the woods (straight will take you to the main road). 

Eventually the trail hits an intersection.  The path to the right takes you to the second parking area, the toilet and the River access. The left takes you up the Monte Cristo Trail (which can loop you back to the starting point but please read my overview of that trail before doing so).

If you are just hiking the Morning Star Trail and the Old Mine Trail, you can either head back to your car via the main road or back the way you came for a round trip hike of about 3 miles.

Length: 3 miles (out and back)

Rating:  3 stars (out of 5)

Difficulty:  Easy

Kids: Definitely

Footwear: Tennis Shoes or trail runners are fine

Trail Book:  None Required, but covered in Buffalo River Hiking Trails

Rush -- The Monte Cristo Trail

The Monte Cristo Trail is one of three short hiking trails in the Rush area.  It is a short little trail, but probably my favorite of the trails.  There is an extended part of this trail at the end that can connect to the other trails in the area to create a loop hike that I'll talk about at the end.

The trail is scenic and easy to follow.

To take this trail, start off at the second trailhead in the Rush area (near the shelter with the picnic tables and toilet and near the River).  The trail starts off into the woods back behind the parking area. There is a small ruin here at the start – it is the remnants White Eagle Mine.

Head off into the woods, and after a short stretch you’ll hit an intersection.  To the left is the Old Mine Trail, to the right is the Monte Cristo Trail. Stay right.

This part of the trail is on an old road -- and is a great part of the trail.

The trail runs off into the woods and eventually swings off to the left. Down below you have some great views of the Buffalo River and Clabber Creek.  At about .4, the trail intersects with an old road, turn left on this road.

The view of Clabber Creek below.

This old road serves as a beautiful little hiking trail. It heads up the hill at a somewhat gentle grade, to your left are some bluff lines along Rush Mountain, and to the right is a steep drop-off to Clabber Creek with more mountains in the distance.  I really do love this little stretch of trail.

Old mining equipment from the '60s.

At .5 miles you get to the Monte Cristo mine – you’ll know it when you see it!  It’s the largest of the mine openings in the area.  There is also some old mining equipment that sits outside – leftover from the somewhat brief mine reopening in the 1960s. You can follow the road another .2 miles until the end of the maintained trail. At this point, you can turn around and head back – for a round-trip route of 1.4 miles.  I recommend this route (and all of “conclusion” data below reflects this option). 

However, if you want to make this a loop hike, there is an option to do so.  It’s not a maintained trail, it’s hard to follow, and a bit dangerous, but if you’re into bushwacking and finding your own way, there are some great views from the top of this trail.

So, if you decide to go on the loop hike, go to the sign where it says “end of maintained trail” and instead of turning around, head off onto the tracked route to the left. This is pretty easy to spot because everyone enters at the same place.

Now, the trail is sort of marked – there are blue trail markers around if you’re looking out for them. There are a lot of downed trees along the ‘trail”, so it is easy to lose. The trail goes up, then to the right, and then up again. At  1 mile from the trailhead, the trail goes straight up to the left through a little break in the bluff line (there is a tree in the middle of this break with a blue tag on it).  It is the only real break in the bluff line, so it’s important that you keep an eye out for it.

Once through this break in the Bluff, we never really found a trail again. The best advice I can give you is to find the easiest way to the top and then follow the trail ridge across the top of the Mountain. There really are some great views from up here when the leaves are off the trees.

If you decide to go over the mountain ridge, be cautious and enjoy the views.

Follow the mountain ridge for quite awhile here (it has a slight uphill grade).  At some point the trail heads back down the mountain. I confess, we never found the trail down – but it’s hard to get lost here, because you’re at the top of the mountain, and you know you have to go down on your left. However, my hint here is to stay on the ridge much longer than you think you need to. Just like the side of the mountain you just came up, there is a steep bluff line on this side as well, so there aren’t many options to get down. And, that side of the ridge is a series of mines (the ones you’ll pass by on the Mine Trail) – so there is a lot of fencing, deep drop offs and likely some unstable ground.  But assuming you find your way down, you’ll hit a the mine trail – to the right takes you to the Morningstar Parking area, to the left, down the old Mine Trail. If you make this entire loop, it’s about 3.6 total miles (depending on how close to the original trail you stay.

If you take the loop route, be careful, take a good topographical map, and do your best to stay on the trail.  I hope someday they can complete this trail, because right now, it’s really rough bushwacking.

Monte Cristo Trail:

Distance: 1.4 (roundtrip on the actual trail – 3.6 miles if you try the loop)

Difficulty: Easy for the hiking portion, Difficult for the “loop” hike version over the mountain.

Rating: 4 stars

Footwear: Trail Runners – although Hiking Boots are advised for the Loop hike

Kids: Yes (for the out and back route, definitely not for the loop).

Guidebook:  none required if you stay on the trail, but if you plan to attempt the Loop Hike take the Buffalo River Hiking Trails Book for guidance.

Lost Valley -- Fall Hike

The Lost Valley trail is the most popular hiking trail in the Buffalo River area – and for good reason. It’s easy to get to, easy to hike, very family friendly, and has more “bang for your buck” than nearly any hike anywhere.  This is the first trail I ever hiked in Arkansas – and is one of the many reasons I fell in love with the area – it has everything, a natural bridge, high bluffs, beautiful woods, moss-covered rocks, a beautiful waterfall, and even a cave (that also has a waterfall).

To get to the trailhead, take Highway 43 from Ponca to Boxley through the Boxley Valley. There is a sign that very clearly marks the turnoff to the Lost Valley Campground and hiking area. Turn here, and about a half mile down the road you’ll get to a large parking lot with some restrooms and a shelter. The campground here was closed down in Spring 2011 after some very heavy rains washed away many of the campsites and caused a LOT of damage to the trails here. They’ve been working hard getting the trail back in good shape, and I hope they figure out a good solution for the camping areas. It’s such a magical place that I hope they can maximize the number of people who get to use it.

At the back of the parking lot, the hiking trail heads down across a newly-built rock bridge that heads across a little creek.  This is Clark Creek and you’ll be following it through the valley. It’s usually dry here, but there is often great water at the falls even if it’s dry in this spot.

The trail is very easy to follow – in fact, nearly the entire first half of the trail is handicap accessible.   The woods here is very pretty, almost tropical. I has a lot of fern-type vegetation in the spring and summer, and a lot of moss-covered rocks that in the fall provide a nice, bright green balance to the leaves on the ground.  There are also a lot of hollowed out trees in this area that are fun for kids (and adults) to take a look at.

At about .7, the trail splits. The left heads up, the right heads down. Go right. This heads down to a natural bridge with a little waterfall that tumbles out of it into a nice blue pool of water. It is possible to climb through this little bridge to the other side – although, if the water is high, it is easier to climb in from the other side.

After taking time to enjoy this little spot, the trail heads up to the left and around the bridge. There are some rock stairs here that were rebuilt after the flooding this spring. As you get around to the other side of the bridge, it is possible to climb down into the cave from the other side.  It’s pretty neat inside, so I do recommend it.

Back on the trail, the stairs continue to head up and eventually hit another trail (this is the trail that you passed when you turned right instead of left a little ways back). Turn right here. After a short stretch, the trail will split again at 1 mile into your hike.  Again, go right. This route goes down into Cob Cave – a GIGANTIC rock overhand that is great to explore.

As you follow the trail a few yards further you get to Eden Falls. There is usually some water here, but during the wet season, this is just a spectacular waterfall. It actually begins all the way up at Eden Cave, tumbles 31 feet out of the falls, then changes directions a few times, and then 53 feet into a beautiful blue pool of water.  The sound of the falls echoes through the canyon, and Cob Cave and really is just a special place. Sit for awhile and enjoy.

When you’re ready, head up the hill and you’ll once again reconnect with the original trail. Turn right, and this will take you up to Eden Cave.  This last section is a pretty steep climb, and is not nearly as easy as the route that got you here. Head on up this final .2 miles to the entrance to the cave. The way up has more great views of Eden Falls, and at the entrance to the cave you have a great look down at upper Eden Falls.  You will be tempted to try to scamper down to get a better photo of the water coming out of the cave – but let me warn you, this area is slick, and it’s quite a tumble down.  Just a few weeks ago a young man was trying to get this picture and slipped and fell, and his wife went to help him and she met the same fate.  Both had to be airlifted to a nearby hospital, so don’t let this be you – be content to enjoy the falls from above.

When you get to the cave, if you remembered to bring a flashlight (one for each person in your party), you can climb back into Eden Cave.  At the back of the cave is another waterfall actually inside the cave. Some day I will have the right camera, the right clothes, the right flashlight and the right water flow to slither back there and get this picture, but I don’t have it yet. Go into the cave as far as you’re comfortable and then head back.

When you are done at the cave, you can head back the way you came. Staying to the right each time you hit an intersection is the most direct route back and covers all the paths you skipped on the way here.

While this is a pretty short little hike, please leave yourself plenty of time to explore and just enjoy this magical little place and it’s definitely one the entire family can enjoy.

Distance: 2.3 miles round trip

Difficulty: Easy

Footwear: Trail shoes are generally fine,  but it can be rocky at the end, so if you have weak ankles, feel free to wear hiking boots.

Kids: Absolutely – only the last section to Eden Cave is not easy for kids.

Guidebook: None required, but covered in Tim Ernst’s Buffalo River Hiking Trails and also the Arkansa Waterfalls Guidebook.

The Rut -- October in the Boxley Valley

In the early 1980s, the National Parks Service and several other organizations reintroduced elk into the Buffalo River area. Elk are native to the area, but due to over-hunting had beenn non-existent in the area for decades.

The herds were pulled from a couple of different herds in Nebraska and Colorado -- and have been very successfully reintroduced. Now, approximately 450 Elk call the area around the Buffalo River Home.

Every October comes "the rut", which is mating season.  The bull elk have their full set of antlers and the sound of elk bugles can be heard throughout many of the valleys.

On this page are just a few of the hundreds of pictures we have taken of the elk over the past month.

One of the best places to see the elk is in the Boxley Valley. Just take highway 43 between Ponca and Boxley -- usually about an hour before dusk and an hour or two after dawn. The Parks Service has worked out an agreement with area farmers to alternate fields for cattle. The elk generally don't hang out with the cattle, so they'll migrate to fields where the cattle aren't. 

The elk are generally pretty easy to spot and watch from the road.  Just be sure to pull all the way off the highway -- because they will ticket you if your car is still on the road. Also, please respect the fence lines off the road -- because this is private property on the other side of the fences.  You won't need binoculars to see the elk, but a set of 250 or 300x binoculars will make the experience a lot more enjoyable -- and a small zoom lense will help with the photos as well.  These shots were all taken with a max 270 mm zoom lense, so it doesn't have to be super-high powered.

The elk come down to this area year-around, although October is my favorite time to see them --  and when the biggest crowds are out along the side of the highway.  These are magnificent creatures and one of the first reintrodutions done to areas where they had been killed off.  Missouri has also recently reintroduced elk into their Ozark region, and I hope theirs is equally successful.

 

Old Erbie Area Loop Trail



Erbie is one of those areas with a lot of great hiking trails and several roads that can double as hiking trails that can be looped together to form a wonderful hike of almost any length.  The problem with Erbie is getting there.

The simplest way to get to Erbie is to come in off of Highway 7 on the road just South of Pruitt.  This road takes you by the Koen Experimental Forest, the Erbie Campground and the Parker-Hickman Homestead  and is clearly marked at the highway.  However, this route requires you to have to ford over two water crossings to get to the trailhead (which are actually North of the river.  These crossings are usually fine to cross for even a 2-wheel drive vehicle,  however, when the water is high, particularly in late Spring, you may want to use another route, or, plan to park on the south side of the river and wade across. 

There is also a route coming in off HWY 43 in Compton (this is the same road that takes you to the trail head of Hemmed in Hollow, Hideout Hollow and McFerrin Point).  This road is VERY steep and rocky – so I don’t advise this unless you have a 4 wheel drive – and even then, I wouldn’t plan on heading back out that direction. The most consistent route to get there is to take the small gravel road near Marble Falls on Highway 7 (just North of the old Dogpatch area) and bring that road in.  It’s long, almost entirely gravel, and pretty bumpy, and VERY scenic – and we’ve never had any problems getting by – which can’t be said for the other routes in.

Once in Erbie, park at the trailhead at the 3-way intersection (just uphill from the Erbie Church).  You’ll start this simple loop hike from here.

This is a pretty easy loop hike (only about 1.8 miles) – with much of it following gravel roads and old settler roads.  You’ll start off this hike by heading down the gravel road past the Erbie Church (if you came across the river ford, this is the road you came in on. You’ll follow this road about .6 miles until you get to an old Homestead – the Buchannan-Clagett Farmstead.  Buchannan’s gravestone is in the Cherry Grove Cemetery across the river.

At this Homestead, you’ll turn right on the small road and pass by the cable gate and past the large barn.  Just past the barn, the path splits.  The larger gravel road that heads up the hill goes to a horse camp.  Stay on the lower path – which is also an old road but much more overgrown. This road is part of the Old River Trail.   This part of the trail follows along an open field and a large mountain in the background and makes for some great photos. 

Once you get past the pasture, the trail splits. The Old River Trail heads off to the left and quickly crosses the river, you’ll want to stay relatively straight to stay on the hiking trail – this is at about .9 miles.

This next short section is a bit overgrown but short and you quickly hit a set of rocky stairs that climb up the bluff. This is pretty short, but it’s a steep (and very scenic) climb up these stairs to the top of Goat Bluff. Once to the top, you’ll be following along the top of Goat Bluff for about .3 miles and there are spectacular views of the river and the countryside from the top. Take a few minutes to enjoy the views, eat a sandwhich, whatever, but take the time to enjoy the views.  Oh, and be VERY careful – one slip could be horrible as it’s a long way down.

Once you get to the end of Goat Bluff, you’ll hit another gravel road. This also goes back to the Horse Camp. Stay straight for about 15 yards and you’ll hit another intersection.  At this intersection, to stay on this loop, you’ll head right.  (Straight will take you down a beautiful rocky trail that in .4 miles leads to the JW Farmer’s Homestead. If you fancy a longer hike you can head down to this old Homestead (which is on, and a part of the Farmer’s Trail) and then either head back to the road from there or double back to the intersection at the top of Goat Bluff).

Assuming you’ve turned right on the trail (not the road) at the top of Goat Bluff.  You can follow this trail another .5 miles.  At the road, turn right, and it’s a short stroll back to the parking area where you left your car.  We didn’t actually do this part of the trail as we enjoyed the scenery along Goat Bluff so much that we just hiked down to the J.W. Farmer Homestead and then doubled back the way we came. If you take the actual loop hike the route is 1.8 miles and a nice way to spend an afternoon.

Distance: 1.8 mile loop

Difficulty level: Mostly easy, the short climb up Goat Bluff will be a challenge for the very young and very old

Rating: 4 Stars (out of 5)

Kids:  Older kids are fine – but keep an eye on them on the bluff areas

Shoes: Trail Shoes are fine

Guidebook: Tim Ernst: Buffalo River Hiking Trails

Time of year: This hike is great year around – but I highly recommended it during the fall and winter.