Exploring Northwest Arkansas

Roark Bluff Overlook Trail

Roark Bluff is a popular haven for photographers. The way the bluff catches the sunrise in the mornings, it's wet-weather waterfalls, and easy access, make it a great destination for photographers along the Upper Buffalo River area. 

But what is less-known is that there is a pretty nicely worn trail to get to top of Roark Bluff that provides amazing views of the bluff from above, as well as the entire Steel Creek area. 

The trail is a relatively easy hike, and because it's not well-traveled it's likely you'll have it all to yourself. And with these directions, you should be able to find your way pretty easily.

Getting there

The trail starts from the Steel Creek canoe launch along the Buffalo River. Take Highway 74 South from Ponca. At the top of the hill (about 1.5 miles from Ponca), turn left onto the Steel Creek access road (very well marked). Drive down to the bottom of the hill and turn right at the fork to get to the canoe access point. Park in the parking area here. 

The trail starts on the OPPOSITE side of the river. During high water the trail won't be accessible. Never try to cross the river if there is a swift current and if you cannot see the bottom as it will be unsafe. Even during low water, you'll want to consider this a wet water crossing. Late summer, fall and early winter will be your best timing for this hike.

The Trail

Cross the river at the canoe put-in area. While it may be possible to rock-hop to get across, you should plan on this being a wet crossing. 

Once crossing the river, the trail starts immediately across the river and to the right, and starts through a cane thicket. After a short walk, the trail splits. The trail to the right connects with the Old River Trail. Stay LEFT at the fork. 

From here, the trail goes back into the woods away from the river, turns left up the hill a bit and through a nice pine grove.

The trail winds its way up the hill, to the right, then back up. Eventually it hits a really nice rocky bluff area. It's worth taking some time to explore.

The trail goes to the RIGHT of the rocky bluff area, but you'll need to go left to see some of the neater formations. 

Back on the main trail, the trail loops around the rocky bluff and up the hill some more. Then the trail bends around to the left at the spot pictured below.

At this spot, the trail takes a hard LEFT up the hill. There was some pink tape marking the trail on the day we were there, but this area is well-traveled enough, especially in the fall, that you should be able to notice the turn if you're looking for it.

The trail goes up to to the top of the ridge, and then turns right, and heads back down a bit. It crosses over the remains of an old barbed wire fence and down onto the bluff until it reaches the overlook at about 1.1 miles from the River. 

The overlook provides an amazing view of the Steel Creek recreation, the Buffalo River and Roark Bluff -- which are all below. As with all bluffs in the Ozarks and Buffalo River Area, be very careful near the edges as some spots are very narrow and the falls are very far and steep.

This is a great place to have lunch and just enjoy the beauty of the area. 

Once you have spent your time at the bluff, return the way you arrived.

The entire trail is about 2.2 miles round trip.

If you have time to explore, there are also some neat rock formations and views of Big Bluff on the back side of the bluff (just beyond where you turned to go up to the ridge). 

This is a really great little hike, and while not an officially maintained trail, it is used often enough that it was easy to follow for our Thanksgiving Day hike. It's one we definitely will check out again during the fall when the leaves are turning.

Trail Details

Distance: Approximately 2.2 miles roundtrip

Difficulty: Moderate - mostly due to the river crossing and being an unmarked trail

Footwear: Sturdy hiking boots or trail shoes

Kid Friendly: Older kids should be ok, as long as they can safely make the water crossing and are aware enough around cliffs.

Trail Guide: Danny Hale's Takahik: Hiking the Arkansas Ozarks hiking guide

Star Rating: 5 out of 5

Other nearby hikes: Roark Bluff, Steel Creek Overlook, Buffalo River Trail Ponca to Steel Creek (can do in reverse from this location)

Trail Photos from November 23, 2017

Cave Creek Bluffs - Ozark National Forest

Last month, we were out and about looking at the spectacular fall color in the Ozarks. We stopped by Sam's Throne -- which is one of our favorite spots for viewing fall color.

However, we had a little extra time and we decided to check out another bluff area nearby -- Cave Creek Bluffs. I've never really seen many pictures of the area, but if Tim Ernst felt the need to include it in his Arkansas Nature Lover's Guide I thought it'd be worth checking out. 

Getting There

To get to the Cave Creek Bluffs area, start at the entrance to Sam's Throne and head SOUTH on Highway 123 toward Lurton. At 3.2 miles, turn LEFT onto a small dirt road. There is a "C" painted on one of the trees there. You can pull down the road a little bit and there is a place where it widens where you can park. If you have a high clearance 4wd vehicle, you can drive down the road another .25 miles to a larger parking area -- but the road itself is pretty washed out in spots so you'll need the clearance. 

The Hike

We weren't in the jeep this trip -- so we parked at the first parking area and started our hike down the road. It's a nice little hike and for .25 miles, it's a nice add-on for the trip.

When we arrived at the second parking area, we took a right and headed into the woods and down the hill until we got to the bluff line.  I'm not convinced this was the "best" way to go -- but we really didn't see any trails around so it was kind of hard to determine. But the trek down to the bluff line here was pretty simple and short. 

As expected, the views from the bluff line were pretty amazing as you look down into the Cave Creek Valley and across a lot of open country. 

At the bluff line, we turned LEFT and followed the bluff line to the main vista -- I'm guess this was about .25 miles from initial bluff - so not far. And the view here was fantastic as well with a much cleaner view of the expansive valley below.

If we had gone to the right, there is apparently a walk-down area that will get you to the bottom of the bluff line and into the area where Cave Creek flows. As you can tell from the photos, we had a big storm that came up while we were there so we'll save that for a return trip -- which we'll definitely make soon. 

As noted, there are no maintained trails here and only once did we really even catch a trace of an unmaintained trail -- but it does look like a very fun area to explore. I would recommend saving the exploring time for the fall/winter when the undergrowth is less. The undergrowth didn't seem severe, but it will make exploring more difficult. 

Trail Notes

Distance: I'm estimating that from the first parking area to the vista is about 1 mile round trip.

Difficulty - Moderate -- not a lot of elevation change, but the lack of clear trails make it a bit more challenging.

Kid-Friendly - Older kids will be fine, large drop-offs at the bluffs may make having littles a challenge

Footwear -- Hiking boots are recommended

Map and Guide Book -- Tim Ernst's Arkansas Nature Lover's Guide

Stars: Giving 4 of 5 for now, but can't wait to explore more.

Other destinations nearby: Sam's Throne

 

Best Places to See Fall Color in Northwest Arkansas

Nothing says fall like the pop of fall color that comes as the leaves turn and the colors sparkle and fall begins to give way to winter.

Generally, the third and fourth weekends in October are the best time to enjoy the Fall color in the Buffalo River area -- and on beautiful weekends, the highways are filled with cars and motorcycles out on scenic drives through the hills of Arkansas.

One question I often hear is, "where are the best places to see fall color?" 

The real answer is "everywhere" -- as the colors are spectacular nearly everywhere. However, if, you are willing to get off the highway a little bit, here are my eight favorite places to catch fall color.  Note, each place has a link to the trail notes to get to the destination, but not every one of the trail notes were actually written in Fall, so some may not have the fall color pictures. So my recommendation is to go out and catch your own.

Here's my top 8 list:

1) Sam's Throne.   The drive to Sam's Trone is among my favorite drives, and the view from Sam's Throne is always amazing. But during fall color, it is truly a sight to behold.

2) Pedestal Rocks Recreation Area -- The big views and rocky bluffs combined with the fall color are a fantastic combination.

3) Hawksbill Crag/Whitaker Point is one of the most popular places to catch fall color -- and with good reason. Great views, and beautiful color. 

4) The Boxley Valley - While you generally think of scenic overlooks as the best place to view Fall color, don't discount the valleys as great viewing also. Maybe it's the high hills full of beautiful colors; maybe it's the elk in the fields, or maybe it's the haunting sounds of the Elk bugles during the rut that echo through the valley -- regardless, fall in the Boxley Valley is not to be missed. 

5) Goat Bluff/Erbie Loop Trail -- This trail is off the radar for most looking for fall vistas -- but there is something here about the river, the bluff, and the contrast of the green knotty pines vs the bright colors of fall that I just love. 

6) The Steel Creek Overlook -- Hiking 450 feet above the Steel Creek area along the Buffalo River gets you an amazing panoramic view of the valley below -- the colors at Steel Creek are pretty magnificent.

7) Hideout Hollow -- when you year the word "hollow" it doesn't scream of beautiful views of fall color, but don't let this one fook you. There is great color near the waterfall, and just beyond the waterfall, a volunteer trail goes up to a fantastic view of the Cecil Creek area with some rocky blufflines for impact.

8) Big Bluff -- A panoramic view of the Buffalo River Valley from 400 feet above has to qualify. Great views. But while looking at the views, be sure to watch your step; it's a narrow trail and a long way down.

What places did I miss?  Where is your top spot that is not on the list?

Pedestal Rocks Loop

The Pedastal Rocks area is a spectacular recreation area. The area includes two loop hikes. The Kings Bluff Loop is about a 1.9 mile hike. Pedestal Rocks Loop is about 2.6 miles, or, the two can be combined for a 4.3 mile hike. So you can make the area a couple hour stay, or a full day's worth of hiking.

Both hikes go out to large bluff areas with spectacular overlooks that are uniquely different. Meanwhile, both also opportunities off trail for more exploring below the bluff line.

To get to the area, take Highway 7 to the community of Pelsor (which is 28 miles North of Dover, and 28 miles South of Jasper). Turn EAST onto Highway 16. Travel 6 miles on Hwy 16, and look for the signs to Pedestal Rocks on your right. It's well marked. The parking area is right off the highway and includes a pit toilet.

Today we're going to do the Pedestal Rocks Loop. The King's Bluff Loop I cover here.

Pedestal Rocks

The trail starts off behind the pit toilet and across a small bridge. You'll immediately come to  fork in the road. To the right is the King's Bluff Loop. To the left is the Pedestal Rocks Loop. Today, we're taking the left.

The trail will head down a bit and go down nine stone stairs. At .1, the trail will fork again. To the right is the return of the King's Bluff loop. To the left is the return of the Pedestal Rocks loop. Stay straight to take the Pedestal Rocks Loop.

The trail will head out on the level and go through a nice little forest of pines. After a bit, the trail will begin to descend, and then turn right, and then sharply back left again (there is a wooden post at this sharp left). From here, the trail is level for awhile. To your right is a big view and the spectacular bluff line you're here to see -- and it's just going to keep getting better.

Shortly after the trail levels out, there is a small volunteer trail that heads to the bluff. Take it. This view includes one of the "pedestal rocks" that the trail is named for. You'll follow along the bluff for a bit, with great rock formations and views all around. 

At 1.1, there is a road trace that comes down and joins the trail from the left. At the point where the road meets, just to the right is one of he easiest places to go down below the rock bluff and see some of the cool stuff that is below. If you're up for some exploring, go down below and look around a bit.

Below the bluffs

There are no real trails below the bluff, but it's easy to follow and explore. To the right is a walk-through cave that is regularly used for camping, and another smaller cave. There are two "needle eyes" that you can also scramble through, and eventually you'll get back to the bottom of the first "Pedestal" we saw.

As you can see, we had an awful lot of fun climbing and exploring.

To the left, are more caves and rock formations.

One especially large cave has several spectacular views from it.

If you keep going in this direction you get to yet another "pedestal". 

This is a really fun area to explore. Just be careful. While the falls are not as severe here as they would be from above the bluff, you may be inclined to do some scrambling. Just be smart and know your limits.

Once you are done exploring below the bluffs, you can climb back up the way you came down and continue on the trail.

Back on the trail

The trail continues out along the bluffs for awhile -- with more great rock formations, and more great views.

The trail begins to turn to the left as you follow the bluffline back toward the parking area. If you have young ones with you, please hold onto them near any of the blufflines. While the trail is very safe, it is tempting to get too close to the edge of the bluffs and it is certainly a long way down in places.

After following the bluffs for a bit, the bluffs begin to disappear and you're back in the woods. 

After a bit, you'll see a large natural bridge on your right that is big enough to drive a car through. Worth checking out.

Finally, you're back on the trail and heading back UP the hill. A 2.2 the trail finally intersects with the trail you started on -- to the left you get to do the trail again, straight ahead you can do the Kings Bluff Loop and to the right, it's .1 miles back to the trailhead.

Pedestal Rocks Trail Details

Distance: 2.3 miles

Difficulty: Moderate

Trail Guide: None necessary, but covered in Tim Ernst's Arkansas Hiking Trails

Kids: Yes, but please hold onto them near the bluff lines

Footwear: Trail shoes or hiking boots.

 

Kings Bluff Loop -- Pedestal Rocks Area

The Pedastal Rocks area is a spectacular recreation area. The area includes two loop hikes. The Kings Bluff Loop is about a 1.9 mile hike. Pedestal Rocks Loop is about 2.6 miles, or, the two can be combined for a 4.3 mile hike. So you can make the area a couple hour stay, or a full day's worth of hiking.

Both hikes go out to large bluff areas with spectacular overlooks that are uniquely different. Meanwhile, both also opportunities off trail for more exploring below the bluff line.

To get to the area, take Highway 7 to the community of Pelsor (which is 28 miles North of Dover, and 28 miles South of Jasper). Turn EAST onto Highway 16. Travel 6 miles on Hwy 16, and look for the signs to Pedestal Rocks on your right. It's well marked. The parking area is right off the highway and includes a pit toilet.

We're going to do the King's Bluff Loop First.

The Kings Bluff Loop

The trail heads out just behind the pit toilet and crosses a small bridge. Very quickly the trail splits. To the Right is the Kings Bluff Loop, to the Left is the return of the Kings Bluff Loop or the start of the Pedestal Rocks Loop. We'll start off to the right and do King's Bluff.

The trail starts off on into the wooded area and is on the level for a bit. Then, eventually starts to descend. You'll wind through several switchbacks until eventually, at about .8 miles, you'll come out onto a large (and I do mean large) rock bluff. This is King's Bluff. 

There's definitely more to see here than just the bluff, but be sure to check out the bluff for awhile. To the right is a creek that when the water is flowing well forms a spectacular waterfall off the bluff. Further around to the right (off the trail) is another small waterfall area. 

There is a small fence here -- but I think it acts more as a visual barrier than something that will actually save you from falling -- and it's a long way down, so hold onto any youngsters. The view from here is pretty amazing -- particularly during October when the leaves are turning.

 From here, the trail takes off to the left. It curls around the edge of the bluff and then turns to the right. As you make the turn, there is a route down to the bottom of the bluff that you can follow if the water is really flowing and you want to see the waterfalls from below. (We didn't do this this trip because there was very little water). 

Eventually the trail splits. One trails goes into the woods a bit the other basically follows the bluffline. If you are without kids and are sure-footed, I recommend staying along the bluffline -- Just be careful!  

Along this route you'll eventually be following the bluffline -- which will be on your right, with woods on your left. Along this stretch there are a lot of cool rock formations, and more great views. 

Enjoy. Soak it in. 

After about .3 of following the bluff, the trail will start to curl back into the woods and start to gradually head back up the hill. After another .8 from the bluff, you'll cross paths with another trail.  To the right, or straight, begins the Pedestal Rocks Trail (depending on which direction you want to travel the loop).  To the left is .1 miles back to the parking area.

If you're just doing the King's Bluff Loop, turn left and head back up the hill, up 9 rock steps and you'll get back to the parking area. 

If you want to continue onto the Pedestal Rock's Loop, continue reading here.

Kings Bluff Loop:

Distance: 1.9 miles

Difficulty: Moderate

Guide Book: None necessary, but Tim Ernst's Arkansas Hiking Trails covers the area

Footwear: Trail shoes or hiking boots

Kids: Yes. But be VERY careful around bluff lines

 

Buzzard Roost Scenic Area

I don't really know how to describe Buzzard Bluff -- other than, it's just a cool place to explore. We hadn't heard a lot about this place, but had seen mention of it, so we decided to head out and take a look for ourselves. The trail is unmaked, but with some good directions, you should have no problem finding it.

Getting there

To get to the trailhead, take highway 7 to the small community of Pelsor (about 1/2 way between Jasper and Dover) and turn WEST onto highway 123. Take highway 123 4.7 miles and turn LEFT onto FR1802/1805, CR 14/61, Treat Road. (Yes, this road has 5 different road names depending on what map you're using -- it's a prominent gravel road on your left and had a white sign noting it as Treat Road). 

Once on Treat Road, go 6.5 miles down the dirt road (set your odometer, it will seem like forever) and you will come across a white house on your right, and a barn on your left. Find a place to park along the road here. The road is fairly well maintained at this point and can be handled by any type of vehicle. The trail takes off right next to the barn. Try to not block any of the driveways. 

The Trail

The trail takes off just North of the old barn and heads into the woods away from Treat Road. It's not marked, but it's pretty obvious. The trail follows a 4-wheeler road the entire way -- so it is relatively wide and easy to follow (although big mud holes on the trail are a bit troublesome).

The path is pretty flat for awhile, and then turns left and runs along a ridge. There are great views of the valley below on your right when the leaves are off the trees. The trail then turns back righ, and starts to decend a little. And passes a small pond on your left. Keep going. Past the pond, the trail gets steeper down.

At 1.8 miles, there is another four-wheeler road that joins from the left. Ignore it. Shortly after, is another four wheeler road on the left. Make note of this one, because we'll come back to it later. For now, stay on the main trail (which is to the right).

After about another .2 miles, you'll get to a big, roundabout that seems to be a popular camping site and turnaround for four-wheelers. From here, you'll go down the hill on a small trail that is marked with orange paint on the trees. After a hundred yards or so, you'll get to Buzzard's Bluff.

The area is pretty cool -- with a lot of round-topped rocks that look out over a huge valley. We didn't see any actual buzzards, but it sure seems like it would be a fitting place for them.

You'll probably spend a fair amount of time jumping from rock to rock getting some different views and exploring. Just BE CAREFUL. Some of the drops between the rocks are a LONG way down. Explore for awhile.

Once done exploring the rounded rocks, there are other cool things to see here. To your left (as you look out at the bluff) is a small natural bridge that you can scurry down to check out.

To the right of the bluff is a little trail down to the area below Buzzard Roost. Below the Roost is a maze of caves, tunnels and narrow passageways to explore. It appears to be a popular area for camping as well.

There are a lot of neat routes to explore.

Just take your time and explore.

Here, a huge chunk of rock has fallen off the side.

 And some of the openings are quite narrow.

The Large Natural Bridge

After you're done exploring Buzzard Roose, there is one more place in the area to visit. Head back up to the top of the Roost, and start to head back to the trail head. After about .2, you'll note the ATV trail that comes in from the right. Turn right here at the first ATV trail.

After another about .2, the trail will split. Take the trail to the RIGHT. When the trail starts to turn back left (to join the other trail), there will be a small spur of a walking trail to the right that goes straight down the hill. Take it. After about a hundred yards, you'll come to the larger of two natural bridges in the area.

This apparently one of the larger natural bridges in the area. It's a great spot, with a great view of the valley below.

When you are finished here, it's time to head back to the trailhead.

Trail Notes:

Distance: 4 miles (round trip) + some mileage for exploring

Difficulty: Moderate

Children: Yes, but keep a close hand on them when on the bluff areas

Trail Guide: Tim Ernst's Arkansas Nature Lover's Guide

Footwear: Rocky conditions make hiking boots preferrable

Rating: 4 stars out of 5.

Old Erbie/Goat Bluff Trail - Autumn 2013

The Old Erbie Trail/Goat Bluff Trail remains one of our favorites. So last month, we took the opportunity to explore it with a little fall color. 

You can find information about the hike here.  For today, it's just pictures from our journey last month. 

Autumn at Sam's Throne

It was pretty much peak color this past weekend in many parts of Northwest Arkansas. Below are just a few pics that I captured at Sam's Throne.

Click here for a full recap of how to get to Sam's Throne and a trail guide. 

Hide Out Hollow Waterfall and Hike

Hide Out Hollow is a short, interesting little trail that ends in a great bluff area that offers no only a small waterfall, but also some great views.

To get to the trailhead, go to the community of Compton (5 miles North of Ponca on Highway 43) and turn onto the dirt road at the sign directing you to the Compton Trailhead. (This road is technically Highway 19 that if you have 4 wheel drive will eventually lead to Erbie -- you won't need four wheel drive to get to this trailhead though).  Instead of turning right at the sign that points to the Compton Trailhead, stay straight. At about 3.5 miles from the highway (the road will narrow, so it will seem longer) you will see a sign on your left for the Shermerhorn trailhead that also features a little parking area. Park here. The trail heads out behind the sign. 

The first part of the trail isn't terribly descript. It heads down a hill a bit (the trail is pretty rocky here) and crosses a couple of small, mostly dry streams.  It heads back up and then through a group of pine trees. 

At about 3/4 of a mile, the trail begins to get REALLY interesting.  

At this point you'll pass a large, flat rock with several other neat rocks around. The trail then heads down the hill and in about 35 yars, you get to the top of the bluff-line. The trail continues on to your left, but there are several volunteer trails to your right. Feel free to explore along these volunteer trails as they follow the bluff line to a lot of neat rock features and excellent views. From here on out be VERY careful about what you do because it is a long fall down.

Back on the trail, the trail will follow near the bluff line for a few hundred yards until you cross a small stream. The stream tumbles over the edge of the bluff creating Hideout Hollow Falls. The Fall is 37 feet tall.

So, at this point you have a couple of options. 

The first is to follow the bluffline around the other side of the Hollow. The trail here is a volunteer trail but it is very easy to follow. It will cross over some rocks and up a hill. At the top of the hill is a spectacular view of the Cecil Creek Valley.  Also, if you look down, you'll note a couple of HUGE boulders that are part of the bluff that have broken off over the years.

Once you take in the full view, you're probably wondering, how do I get down to see the waterfall from below?

Well, it's a challenge and not a part of a sanctioned trail so you are doing it at your own risk.

Go back to the top of the falls - and if you are looking out over the falls, you'll see a ledge on your left. You will need to follow this ledge out. It is fairly wide, but has an overhang, so the two options here are to crawl on your hands and knees or be on the very edge close to the ledge. Follow this for about 40 yards or so.

At the end of the ledge there are some rocks that have been stacked up to make some "stairs" that you can climb down. Again, I can't stress enough, be careful.

Once to the bottom, there are a lot of interesting things to see. The highligh of course is the waterfall itself.

If you then follow the bluff line to the opposite side from where you came down, there is also the remains of an old dwelling that is pretty cool. This wouldn't have been a bad place to live!  

Take your time and explore and then you can head back to the trailhead the way you came in. This is a great little hike with a lot of great views, rock formations and a waterfall - -so there's a little something for everyone.

Distance: 2 miles round trip (plus some exploring once you get to the hollow.

Difficulty: Moderate

Trail Guide: Tim Ernsts Buffalo River Hiking Trails

Kids: Older kids yes, but keep an eye on them near bluffs and don't try to make it to the bottom with them.

Footwear: Hiking boots -- the beginning of the trail is hard on the ankles without them

 

After a long rain...

One of the things I love most about the Buffalo River Valley is the look it has after a full day's rain as the clouds/vapor/steam rise up above the valley. It's nearly impossible to photograph to get the full effect, but we went out to make an attempt at it after a full day's rain a couple weeks ago. Hopefully you'll get a feel for what I mean.

Meanwhile, we also got to see something I'd never seen before, which was the buzzards that usually roam the bluffs of the valley drying off their wings after the rain. There were probably 25 of them in two dead trees -- all with their wings spread out drying them off.