The Buffalo National River is an area rich in natural beauty and history of early settlers. And there is no place that represents the sometimes painful collision between these two things quite like Granny Henderson's Cabin.
In the 1960s, there were plans made to put a dam on the Buffalo River -- to provide hydro-electric power and a lake for recreation as was common practice during this time. However, many in the area weren't in favor of the dam, and wanted the river to be left free-flowing.
In an effort to keep the river free-flowing, a group of advocates fought for the protections of the River by making it the nation's first National River. This plan was approved in 1972 -- making the Buffalo River the first protected National River in the nation and allowing it to be the natural/beautiful area millions of visitors enjoy for recreation each year.
But saving the river from being dammed didn't solve all of the problems for people like Eva "Granny" Henderson.
Eva Henderson moved onto her 167 acres of paradise near the Buffalo River when she was 16 years old after marrying her husband Frank. They worked the land, raising cattle and food for their family. They never had modern conveniences like running water or electricity. For water, Eva made trips a quarter mile away to fetch water from the Buffalo River. Granny remained living in the cabin long after Frank passed away in 1959.
However, after the designation of the River as a National River, the government came around trying to reclaim the owned land near the river so it could be returned to wilderness area. In 1978, a couple of "Government Men" as Granny called them, came up to Granny and told her the aimed to buy her land. "They asked me what I thought of it," Granny recalled. "'I don't think much of it' I told them. I said it kinda short, because I meant it short."
In so many ways, Granny Henderson's comments there remind me of my own grandmother.
The Government got it's way, of course. In 1978 Granny Henderson was forced to leave her cabin at the age of 87 -- after living 71 years on that little plot of ground. She moved in with her daughter "up the hill" and died only a few months later. Granny's story has been told many times, including by National Geographic Magazine. Ozarks Alive has a very nice , more comprehensive history, available online.
The story is one of tragedy for Granny Henderson, even in triumph in the protection of this beautiful national river. Even today, many locals are still very suspicious of the government's work along the river because of situations like Granny's.
Granny's cabin stands today, and is a popular stopping point for hikers and as a reminder of the rugged history of the area. It It can be accessed via several trails, including the Centerpoint Trail, Hemmed in Hollow Trail, and Sneeds Creek Trail (forthcoming).
Getting there
The most direct route to reach the homestead is to take the Centerpoint Trail as if you're hiking to Big Bluff. After 3 miles of hiking, there is a junction that takes you out to the Goat Trail to Big Bluff. If you stay straight on the old road/trail, and hike for another 1 mile you will get to Granny Henderson's Cabin. It makes for about an 8 mile out and back from the Centerpoint trailhead with a substantial elevation gain coming back out.
This is a very special place, so please treat it with care. You may enter the cabin, but camping is not allowed, and please leave no trace.
Nearby: Big Bluff, Hemmed in Hollow, Sneeds Creek
