Leatherwood Creek is an amazing little place in the Upper Buffalo River that seems hidden in plain site. While hundreds of people visit the area almost daily, few venture in to find the beauty that awaits. Until recently, when photos of Balanced Rock Falls started popping up online, it was rare that anyone talked about this area. And yet, with just a bit of bushwhacking some amazing sites await, including several smaller waterfalls, several cascades, and one of my favorite grottos in the region.
This trail is not marked, and not maintained. Some parts of it are relatively easy to follow, and others are just straight bushwhack. But beauty awaits those who visit.
Getting There
Leatherwood Creek is super-easy to get to. Essentially, the parking area is the parking spot for the Ponca low-water bridge. Park in the parking lot by the Ponca low water bridge. Park, and cross the bridge on foot. There is a sign there that points the direction of the Buffalo River Trail -- to the right heads to Boxley, to the left, Steel Creek. However, just a few paces to the right (toward Boxley) of the sign, there is a small path that enters the woods to the left. You'll enter the woods here.
The Trail
Upon entering the woods, the trail (which is fairly worn at this point, and easy enough to follow) runs right along the right side of a mid-sized creek. This is Leatherwood Creek. This is the same creek that pours out of a small tunnel into the Buffalo River on the opposite side of the Ponca low water bridge.
Leatherwood Creek is basically your guide for the entire hike....you'll generally following along this creek both out and back -- so as long as you can find the creek, you shouldn't get terribly lost.
Shortly after entering the woods, there is a very prominent marker tree.
The history of marker trees is somewhat mysterious, but they are generally believed to have been created by early settlers and Native Americans to help mark the way to important features like freshwater springs.
I tend to also think that early settlers also loved the beauty of the area -- and may have also used them to point out really beautiful areas such as waterfalls before guidebooks and the internet made people more aware of these areas.
Regardless, there are hundreds of marker trees in NW Arkansas and they all seem to be in really beautiful spots!
The trail goes on beyond the marker tree and for awhile follows the along the right side of the creek (while looking upstream). As noted before, this isn't a marked or maintained trail, so following along the side of the creek as best you can.
After about a 1/2 mile of hiking, the trail passes by a short bluff line on the opposite side of the creek, and in the middle of this bluff line, there is a nice spring that pours right out of the middle of the bluff creating a really nice place to gaze and nature's beauty.
Just past this area is generally the first of several creek crossings -- most of which are wet crossings so be prepared.
At roughly .75 miles, the trail runs upon a really nice waterfall on the main trail. This is an unnamed waterfall, but pretty nice, and probably the largest along the main creek for awhile.
The "trail" crosses the creek again just above the falls. After a short distance, there is an intersection of sorts. You'll know you're there as during wet weather, there is a nice, small, waterfall that pours off on the opposite side of the creek. There are also some remains of an old home site on the right side of the creek.
We'll come back to this spot in a bit, but for now, we're going to turn LEFT, cross the creek and then leave Leatherwood Creek and follow this drainage UP the hill.
There is a small volunteer trail just to the right of this drainage that can help guide the way, but follow this up about 150 yards (passed one decent sized waterfall) and you'll eventually hit Balanced Rock Falls.
Balanced Rock Falls is one of the most unique waterfalls in the Ozarks and the water really flows right under a rock that appears "balanced" on the sides of the falls. It's a really cool place and reminds me of several of the Indiana Jones movies. Don't forget to check out above the falls as well as there is another nice falls above Balanced Rock.
It was only recently that Balanced Rock Falls was documented -- mostly on various social media pages. I first heard about it in 2018. It has become a relatively popular destination in a short amount of time due to its uniqueness.
Once you are done visiting Balanced Rock Falls you'll return back down to the hill to the main creek.
Back on the main trail
Once you're back at the base of the side drainage, continue upstream. The trail is MUCH less warn further upstream as a lot of folks just go to Balanced Rock and return back to the trailhead and they miss some of the best stuff!
Keep following the creek upstream. Make your way as best you can. You can get high up on the bluff on the left side of the creek and pick your way. Or, depending on the water conditions, you can sometimes make your way near the creek. This is the prettiest way, but be careful, as the rocks here can be super-slick and sometimes you'll dead end in a canyon and have to retrace back to get around it. Being willing to get your feet wet and crossing the creek a few times is helpful.
If you do this, always be careful to not cross in very swift-moving water or in deep water. If you can't see the bottom, don't cross!
But along the way there are many small cascades and waterfalls that are just beautiful.
There isn't an easy route, but the scenery is top notch:
After about 1.75 miles the creek hits a small waterfall that gets really close to the highlight of the hike (in my humble opinion).
Just beyond this double falls is a grotto. It really is one of my favorite places in all the Ozarks. There is a huge cave overhang with the creek flowing over a ledge in several places. It's just amazing.
Just beyond the grotto is another larger waterfall -- this is Leatherwood Creek Falls. It would be worth the trip all by itself.
Spend some time. Soak it in. And as with any place in nature, please respect the beauty and serenity of this special place and leave no trace.
Once you've spent the time here, it's time to head back the way you came. Please don't go beyond this waterfall as it quickly hits private property and always respect private property. Bushwhack your way as best you can - enjoying many of your favorite cascades again along the way.
Trail Details
Distance: Approximately 4 miles -- feels like more with it being a bushwhack with a lot of unstable footing
Difficulty: Moderately Strenuous
Footwear: Sturdy hiking boots, and the more waterproof the better
Kid-friendly: No
Guidebook: None
Rating: 5 of 5
Nearby: Buffalo River Trail (Ponca to Steel Creek) (Ponca to Boxley), Lost Valley Trail, Villines Homestead
Most photos taken October 27th, 2019 unless otherwise noted.
