Exploring Northwest Arkansas

Cherry Grove Cemetery Loop

Another historical aspect of the Buffalo River National River area is that it contains many old cemeteries.

These old cemeteries provide a lot of insights into the people who first settle the area and the difficulties of daily life in the wilderness in the early days.

Many of the gravestones bear the names of the nearby homesteads. Some have been replaced by newer gravestones. Some are barely legible.

One great little loop hike is back to the Cherry Grove Cemetery.

The trail leaves from the back of the Parker-Hickman homestead in the South Erbie area.

When you go to the back of the homestead area, there is a sign that points you to the cemetery. One way it points you is up the trail to the right, the other is up the road to the left. To do the loop hike, take the trail to the right.  This is the Buffalo River Trail that runs between Kyles Landing and the Erbie Campground.

The trail heads up a bit, past an open field and some abandoned farm machinery (I'm guessing this has been sitting there since 1978 when the final residents of the Parker Hickman Homestead moved away) and eventually comes out on a bluff that overlooks the Buffalo River (pictured). The trail follows along the river for a stretch and then cuts back inland, and eventually meets up with an old road. Turn left on the road and walk UP the hill a stretch and you'll get to the old Cemetery.

It's worth the time to read through the old grave stones. You'll note that many of the gravestones are of newborn children (usually less than a few days old) -- a reminder of just how tough giving birth was in a time when hospitals really didn't exist in the west. One family lost two newborn children 20 years apart. There are several "Parkers" buried at this site....likely family members of the original settlers homeowners from the homestead site at the start of the trail.

There is also a gravestone of a man who was "killed by Confederates" - (shown below) a rich testimate to what was a dramatic time in our nation's history. Because of the rugged landscape in the Ozarks, there weren't a lot of battles that took place here during the Civil War, but these people weren't completely isolated from it either.

After you take some time to explore, head back on the old road in the opposite direction that you came in on. This will take you back up the hill a bit and around before dropping sharply back down the hill to the Parker-Hickman Homestead. The whole loop is about 1.9 miles -- with the Cemetery being essentially the half-way point.

This can be a great little half day trip when coupled with exploring the old homestead and some time to play in the river (assuming river levels are safe for doing so).

There are also a fair number of other sites and adventures along this road to South Erbie and in the area if you want to make a fuller day of it.

Distance: 1.9 miles

Difficulty: Easy

Time of year: Can be enjoyed year around -- although in July and August I might recommend just going out and back on the old road to avoid overgrowth on the Buffalo River Trail during those months.

Footwear: Trail Runners -- although tennis shoes would work.

Trail Book: There isn't really a guided route to this loop -- but if you look at Tim Ernst's Buffalo River Hiking Trails Book you can catch a map of the area on the Kyles Landing to Erbie stretch of the Buffalo River Trail. It has details on the BRT stretch of the trail to the Cemetery -- and the old road is noted on the map.

Kids: This is a very kid-friendly trail in both directions.

 

Jasper Elk Festival Friday 6/24, Saturday 6/25 and Sunday 6/26/2011

This coming weekend is the Elk Festival in Jasper.

I've never been to this event -- but am excited to take it all in this weekend.

There is a pretty extensive schedule of events, which includes a variety of music acts, pie judging competition, fishing Derby, elk permit drawings, elk calling competition, Arts and Crafts show, Dutch oven cookoff and a fireworks display.

I'll be posting some pictures of the event next week -- but am looking forward to a great time in downtown Jasper.

Triple Falls/Twin Falls at Camp Orr -- Hiking via the Buffalo River Trail

Triple Falls at Camp Orr  just may be our favorite place in the Buffalo River Area (so far).  Even better, the falls is fed by two water sources (thus it's less-commonly used name, "Twin Falls" for the "twin" water sources) -- the primary of which happens to be a fresh-water spring. This allows for water to flow year-round at this spectacular spot although the 3rd falls may not be visible during the dry season.

There are several ways to get to Triple Falls -- there is a simple, short and flat route up from Camp Orr -- a Boy Scout camp along the Buffalo River (word is that the final bit of this road to the camp is VERY rough so if you don't have a 4WD this may not be the route for you. There is also a pull-out parking spot that allows for quick access off of the main road to Camp Orr (this is the route described in Tim Ernst's Waterfall book). 

Michelle and I wanted to see the falls but also wanted to include a little hike, so we started out along the Buffalo River Trail at Kyle's Landing and headed out toward the falls.

To find the trailhead, go all the way down to Kyle's Landing, and turn left at the campground. Drive back to the very back of the campground and the trailhead is right there.  You start out on the Old River Trail, but quickly turn left and head toward Erbie on the Buffalo River Trail.

 
From this spot, the BRT heads upstream up Bear Creek -- which is usually dry (when it's not, there is a small waterfall with a small watering hole (pictured above) that will be along the trail to the left) and then heads UP the hill. There is about a 500 foot elevation change on this stretch of the trail but it passes through some pretty awesome rock formations (a pic of me hiking through a stretch of the trail is just below) that are well worth taking some time to explore and taking a few photos. 

 
 

Eventually, at about 1 mile into the hike, you'll cross the very same road that you drove down on to Kyle's landing (if you're pressed for time, or want to avoid the first 500 foot climb, then there is a parking space just up the road from here where you can park and start the trail from here. You will miss the small little waterfall and the bluff formations though).

Continue on the trail just across the road.  You'll go through some wooded terrain where there are some good views during the late fall and winter when the leaves are off the trees. We did this hike in the spring, so we only caught a few glimpses of the views of the river from above.

 
At some point, the trail turns pretty rocky and heads back down the hill (this is another about 500 foot elevation change -- so you'll have to climb back up out of here when you're done). You eventually cross over the stream that feeds Triple Falls (don't panic if it's dry,the majority of its water comes from the Spring that is down river from here).  The trail then turns left and follows along the creek for a stretch.  During high-water season in the winter and Spring there is a beautiful little spot down here that you'll be able to see from the trail -- and it's well worth heading down to check out (pictured above). The trail eventually veers right off away from the stream and hits the powerlines. At this point, follow the trails through the powerline area and they eventually lead you to the top of the falls. 

 
When you get to the top of the falls, you'll at first see the Spring (pictured above).  Check this area out and don't get too close to the edge!  To get to the bottom of the falls, go out to the right and find one of a couple of trails that head downward. There really isn't a good way here, as all trails are steep and require some scrambling (but if you're on the trails they aren't particularly dangerous, just steep). 

When you get to the bottom, enjoy the beautiful, 48 foot tall waterfall.  I really love this place.

As usual, I recommend you take some time out, have a peanut butter and jelly sandwich and enjoy some time there before heading back (as Michelle is doing pictured below). When you're finished, head back the way you came.

 
Distance: While the falls can be accessed only a short ways from the road, this hike is 4.4 miles round trip.  You can save about 2 miles if you park in the little parking area along the road to Kyle's Landing and start from there.

Difficulty: Moderate/ Difficult

Footwear: I wore my trail runners, but I think Michelle was happy to have her hiking boots on.

Time of year:  Water will flow on two waterfalls year around, but if you can catch the third falls during high water season (winter/spring) it really is spectacular.

Trail guide: The falls is in Tim Ernst's Arkansas Waterfalls book.  However, the hike can be done by following the Buffalo River Trail: Kyles Landing to Erbie in Tim Ernst's Buffalo River Hiking book. The waterfall he mentions along the trail is Triple/Twin falls even though he never calls it by name.

Rating: 5 stars out of 5

Parker-Hickman Homestead

One of the many interesting aspects of the Buffalo River area, in my opinion, is the glimpses it gives you into the lives of early settlers of the area.

Because so much of the area is unspoiled, there are a host of old homestead sites in the area that remain in their original states...and give a glimpse into how early settlers of the area lived.

One of the best-preserved areas is the Parker-Hickman Homestead. 

The Homestead is very accessible -- just off the road on the road past the Erbie Campground on the way to the river (just before you pass the river Ford into the Northern Erbie area) or the Buffalo River Trail from Kyles Landing to Erbie passes right through the Homestead. 

The Homestead was built between 1847 and 1849 by the Parker Family. By 1912, the Hickman Family had moved in. The homestead remained in the Hickman Family until 1978 -- and the entire area was purchased by the National Parks Service in 1982.

In 1987, the Homestead was added to the National Register of Historic Places.

The Homestead now remains very much as it was maintained over the years. The house has been added onto (the addition on the left side of the house as you look at it was added on in the early 1900s and served as a farm supply store during the 1920s -- the room was lined with old newspapers (Pictured) that I hope to some day have a chance and just read through some of the old articles. There are also many other buildings including a couple of barns (one pictured) that were built over the years -- mostly by the Hickman family.

It's amazing to be able to walk through the old farm house and see it as it likely has been for 150 years, see the stream that runs through the property (and an old rock that seems just perfect for laying clothes washed out in the stream to dry).

I really like this little area, and it certainly gives you a feel for what it would have been like to have been an early settler to the area. 

Just up the hill a bit is the Cherry Grove Cemetery.  We'll explore the little loop trail up to the Cemetary in later post.

The Glory Hole

The Glory Hole  is one of the most unique waterfalls in the Ozarks -- and when the water is really flowing, the hike to it adds to the spectacular appeal of this short trail.

The trail is in the Ozark National Forest -- and the trail head is off of Highway 16 about 5 .7 miles East of Fallsville. 

The trail starts off down an old road for a stretch, and then drops off to the right down a pretty good slope. Eventually, you cross the stream that leads to the falls -- if the stream is really moving here, you're in for a real treat at the falls.

The main trail stays up high from the creek, but there is a place where you can venture down and follow along the main creek to the falls itself. This is a bit rougher, but there are some simply gordeous smaller waterfalls and cascades along this stretch that would be worth the hike if they were the highlight themselves (the first 3 pictures are of these areas.

After about a mile you get to the top of the Glory Hole.  Be VERY careful here. You can get pretty close to the hole itself, but the rocks around the area are really slick and falling through the whole would be a bad idea. (The 4th picture on this page is of the top of the waterfall).

After taking a few pictures here, you can loop around and venture down to the bottom of the falls.

When the water is high there is a pretty nice little waterfall here  in its own right (picture #5 on this page -- that's my wife Michelle squatting down next to the top of that falls).

As you loop back around, you get to the base of the Glory Hole and can see the water simply pouring out of the hole -- and it really is one of the more spectacular waterfalls in the area with a fall of about 30 feet -- the last three pictures on this page are of the Glory Hole from the bottom of the falls.

Plan to spend a little time in the area -- we usually like to pack a picnic lunch and hang out here for a bit before heading back up the hill to the car. The hike out is a lot tougher (and more uphill) than the hike down, but it's not too bad and it is certainly worth the 2 mile roundtrip to see this amazing and unique waterfall area.

The day these pictures was taken was after a solid day of rain in May -- so we had very high water for these pictures. I'd strongly recommend checking out this falls area during the rainy season (winter and Spring) for the best water flow.

Distance: 2 miles

Footwear: I recommend some trail shoes, although tennis shoes would be fine

Difficulty: Easy/moderate

Rating: 5 Stars out of 5

Children: I think this is pretty child-proof, but the uphill hike on the way out, plus the scramble back up to the top of the falls may be a little tough for the really young ones.

Trail Book: Tim Ernst's Arkansas Waterfalls

Here's someone else's view of the trail

 
 

Trumpeter Swan in Boxley Valley

 Some of the best wildlife viewing in the area is in the Boxley Valley (essentially along the stretch of highway 43 between Ponca and Boxley).

While this is a spectacular place to catch Elk in the early mornings and late evenings, it is also usually home to a couple of Trumpeter Swans that hang out on one of the large ponds along the stretch.  They always seem so peaceful.

Welcome -- a bit about us

In 2002, I made my first ever trip to the Buffalo River Area of Arkansas upon the encouragement of my now-wife Michelle

Instantly, I fell in love. It was amazing that throughout my entire life I had been making the long drive across Kansas to the Rocky Mountains in order to get my outdoors fix -- and it had never occurred to me to go just a few hours South to the Natural State.

Over the years, the wife and I have visited the area with some regularity, and recently decided to buy our cabin in Newton County so we could spend more time enjoying the area.  We named the 70 year old cabin "Grandma Stella's Homestead" -- after our dog Stella who seems to enjoy running the pastures surrounding it the most.

Meanwhile, it has also occurred to me that The Buffalo River National River is unlike most other national parks. While most National Parks are accessible to very casual explorers -- who mostly like to just drive through and look over a few overlooks, and call it a day -- The Buffalo River area is best explored off the road. There is no drive through road -- in fact, the primary "road" through the area is the Buffalo River itself.

Because of this, I think many are either intimidated by the park, or because they don't get out of the car, never really quite experience it the way it needs to be experienced. And that's where I hope this blog comes in.

Over the course of writing this blog -- I'm going to share pictures of waterfalls and historic sites, trails and river bluffs, and of course, the river itself. Plus, cover just plain fun stuff to do. I'm going to talk about how many great things there are to see if you just venture just a bit off the beaten path -- to see what I think is an absolutely magical area of the country. Some waterfalls and hikes are short and very easy. Some will be more rugged. There are also certain times of year that are better than others for certain trails. I'll be sure to tag everthing accordingly so hopefully everyone can have a great time and not get in over their head. There's nothing I like less than an unexpected overnight camping trip.

We won't be confined to the Buffalo River Area -- we'll venture to neighboring trails in the Ozark National Forest in the Arkansas State Parks in Northwest Arkansas.  I might eat a few tasty meals too and share some thoughts on great eats, small towns, historical sites, breaking news,local festivals, wildlife, tourist attractions -- it's all fair game. 

I hope you find the blog entertaining and helpful if you are exploring the area for the first time and I hope you share your stories in the comments as well.

A couple of quick helpful notes:

If you plan to visit the Buffalo River Area - even one time -- then go out and buy at least one of these two books (I'd recommend both) by local outdoorsman Tim Ernst. Tim has a host of books to buy on his website - but two that I think are invaluable to exploring the area are the Buffalo River Hiking Trails book and the Arkansas Waterfalls Guidebook. 

These books are so well done that I have no desire to recreate Tim's awesome work (and no, I'm not getting paid for an endorsement -- I gladly endorse them for free). They will prove to be invaluable to you in finding roads and trailheads and following trails. But I'll point you to the appropriate trail and map in the guidebook -- and hopefully provide you a few new ways to explore the area -- and maybe spend a bit more time on some specific sights along the way. Tim also has a great blog as well with great photos.  With the help of these books I've yet to need a GPS to explore the area (I'll let you know when I do).

All of the photos in this blog unless otherwise noted are taken by me or my wife, Michelle.

I really do hope you learn to enjoy the area as much as we have.